Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

#301
Any wax and grease remover should do it. I would soak the area really good with it a couple times though.

I know primer is porous and will allow the oil to soak in it, but the wax and grease remover will cause the oil to float to the top. Be sure to wipe the wax and grease remover off each time with a clean rag or paper towels. Keep flipping the rag over and wipe until the surface is dry.

I use the Sherwin Williams line here at work, it's a very good product. They have a new clear coat that I love spraying. If you want to look into it, it's number is 1100755. Probably pretty pricey though.
 
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#302

Thanks Dave,
Your feedback is uber appreciated. I'm a hobbiest who paints on occasion, just not enough to know best practices. I have been lucky enough so far to have avoided any material dirt issues, fisheyes, oil/silicone, or incompatible product issues.

I have been very happy with the SW products I've used so far but it was all older single stage acrylic which I think they called Acrylid or something like that. My brother still has one of the BMW motorcycles that I shot 20 years ago and it still looks quite good. My local SW jobber has treated me real well and I'll keep going back.

Before SW I used mostly dupont stuff because a local dupont jobber gave me 50-60 gallons of centari, chroma one and laquer that had been rejected by their customers. He said he had to pay someone to get rid of it if I didn't want it. I wasn't color matching anything. Just shooting whole vehicles like my 63 k10 4x4 (shot that in Imron which came out awesome using a home made fresh air mask and was tough as armor) a couple Rabbit GTI's (white Chromaone), bicycles, toolboxes, old refrigerators etc.. I grabbed any colors that looked generic; mostly whites, greys, black, charcoals, reds and yellow. I would then just buy whatever reducers and other additives to go with it. Everyone was happy until I moved and found out the new local dupont shop was expensive and snooty. They seemed to get annoyed if i had simple questions. They would usually just tell me to look up the answers in the product sheets. That is when I found the SW shop in Piscataway. I still have a couple gallons of the centari left including 1.25 gal of 2a medium canyon red that i bought for the 86GT but heard rumor that the reducer is not available anymore.
 
#304
Can you get me a picture of the groove? Put your hand next to it so I can have perspective of the size of the groove too please.

What color white are you intending? I always thought Ford's paint code 9L was an attractive white. Not too white, yet not too tan by any means. The newer white's like YZ and WT are brighter and nice as well. Kind of depends what you're looking for.

At least for the repair on the bumpers and mouldings, I would definitely take them off. The vehicle will look nicer if you paint all of the trim off.
 
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#305
I used a standard house key for comparison. These are the worst of the bumper damage. They need to be cleaned out so might be a little deeper when repair starts. It's been like this since I bought the car is to 10 yrs ago.


 
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#306
Yeah man, that's not bad at all. You'll need to smooth out the edges a bit. Use a fairly rough sand paper when repairing them, like around 60 grit. Just in the areas where you'll apply the filler though. Use 180 to 240 further out where you'll spray the primer.

There are a number of choices to repair it. You can use a bondo specifically made for plastics, meaning it stays flexible, but it's simple to use. Very similar to regular bondo with hardener.

There are also epoxy like glues you can use. I've used panel bonding adhesive to repair bumpers before with great success, it can be a little messy though.

I would use something like Polyflex though, you should be able to get a quart of it from any paint supplier. That's the bondo style repair. You'll sand it just like bondo as well. Be sure you don't apply it over paint for similar reasons you don't want to apply bondo over paint on a metal surface.

Once you have repaired the area, spray on a plastic adhesion promoter and then primer over the repair.
 
#307
When you get closer to paint, pm me and I'll give you my phone number and I'll help you through the process. It only takes a minute to get the info across to you that would take a half hour to type.
 
#309
Davedacarpainter said:
When you get closer to paint, pm me and I'll give you my phone number and I'll help you through the process. It only takes a minute to get the info across to you that would take a half hour to type.
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Sounds good. There are a couple of paint shops around. I'll hit you up when I see what brand paints they have. I really want to go with a blue but white is the cheapest. I really like the deep blue the new mustang comes in. Bit probably pretty pricey
 
#310
old_blue said:
Sounds good. There are a couple of paint shops around. I'll hit you up when I see what brand paints they have. I really want to go with a blue but white is the cheapest. I really like the deep blue the new mustang comes in. Bit probably pretty pricey
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Blue won't cost much, if any more than white. Reds, oranges and yellows are the pricey toners.

I'm going Kona blue on my blue car.
 
#311
old_blue said:
Amazon product ASIN B0007UAXJQView: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ


Something like this? How important is it for brand loyalty when using this product?
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Not really, there are plastic adhesion promoters that are made specifically for plastics. Hit up an oreillys or other parts store that provides paint to body shops. You can get a rattle can of it from them.

That stuff you showed me really isn't that good of a product.
 
#314
Alright Dave,since I've popped up in most of your other threads-I had to come ask a question here to


I found my poor old truck like this when I came outta work today- what are the chances I could fill the dent with spot puddy and cover it with touch up paint?
 
#315
First just take some lacquer thinner and wipe the black off of it to get a better view of any damage.
 
#316

Im about to blast and paint my front frame and engine bay. Which media should I use and then what prep and paint process should I use? I know as much about painting as I do Quantum Physics.... Which is nothing!
 
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#317
MileHi91LX said:
Im about to blast and paint my front frame and engine bay. Which media should I use and then what prep and paint process should I use? I know as much about painting as I do Quantum Physics.... Which is nothing!
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For the engine bay, unless you already smoothed it, just use sand for the media. All of the metal there is either tough enough to not warp, or you'll have an engine in the way of any ripples.

Next? Spend a good half of an hour blowing sand out of all the. cracks, crevices and other hiding places the sand WILL get in to.

Then, I need to find out if you have a paint gun. If you do, get a two part etch primer and spray two medium coats on all of the bare metal. Then primer it with a primer.

Let that sit for at least a day for the primer to harden. Then sand the primer smooth with 320 grit sandpaper (or lighter like 400-600).

Then for the painting process, you'll want to blow the bay out really good again. Wipe it down with a wax and grease remover, seal it, apply the color, then clear coat it, unless you will be using single stage.

Easy peasy! There are a lot of small details I will give you tonight if you want detailed help. PM me with any questions you want me to address. Or just put the questions here, that'll help out others.
 
#320
Mustang5L5 said:
How big of a job is changing out the front rails using the LMR Kit?? Motor removed of course


Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
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Not really a big deal. It'll take more work removing the engine than cutting out the rot and fixing it. Just remember the inner supports for the frame where the k-member bolts up to. @Trbofox did a real nice job on his notch with good pictures. Of course, he fixed a LOT more rot than just his frame rails in his build thread.
 
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