Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

Davedacarpainter · Jul 14, 2016

Dense Speed said:
I've really enjoyed the painting info in this thread. So much so that I ran out to the garage and started working on my semi primed 86 GT. Imagine my shock when i found what looks like an oil stain on the hood's etching primer (sherwin williams). What is the best method for removing the oil? Prepsol, sand prepsol, reprime? Probably an oily rag to blame.

Any wax and grease remover should do it. I would soak the area really good with it a couple times though.

I know primer is porous and will allow the oil to soak in it, but the wax and grease remover will cause the oil to float to the top. Be sure to wipe the wax and grease remover off each time with a clean rag or paper towels. Keep flipping the rag over and wipe until the surface is dry.

I use the Sherwin Williams line here at work, it's a very good product. They have a new clear coat that I love spraying. If you want to look into it, it's number is 1100755. Probably pretty pricey though.

Dense Speed · Jul 18, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
Any wax and grease remover should do it. I would soak the area really good with it a couple times though.

I know primer is porous and will allow the oil to soak in it, but the wax and grease remover will cause the oil to float to the top. Be sure to wipe the wax and grease remover off each time with a clean rag or paper towels. Keep flipping the rag over and wipe until the surface is dry.

I use the Sherwin Williams line here at work, it's a very good product. They have a new clear coat that I love spraying. If you want to look into it, it's number is 1100755. Probably pretty pricey though.

Thanks Dave,
Your feedback is uber appreciated. I'm a hobbiest who paints on occasion, just not enough to know best practices. I have been lucky enough so far to have avoided any material dirt issues, fisheyes, oil/silicone, or incompatible product issues.

I have been very happy with the SW products I've used so far but it was all older single stage acrylic which I think they called Acrylid or something like that. My brother still has one of the BMW motorcycles that I shot 20 years ago and it still looks quite good. My local SW jobber has treated me real well and I'll keep going back.

Before SW I used mostly dupont stuff because a local dupont jobber gave me 50-60 gallons of centari, chroma one and laquer that had been rejected by their customers. He said he had to pay someone to get rid of it if I didn't want it. I wasn't color matching anything. Just shooting whole vehicles like my 63 k10 4x4 (shot that in Imron which came out awesome using a home made fresh air mask and was tough as armor) a couple Rabbit GTI's (white Chromaone), bicycles, toolboxes, old refrigerators etc.. I grabbed any colors that looked generic; mostly whites, greys, black, charcoals, reds and yellow. I would then just buy whatever reducers and other additives to go with it. Everyone was happy until I moved and found out the new local dupont shop was expensive and snooty. They seemed to get annoyed if i had simple questions. They would usually just tell me to look up the answers in the product sheets. That is when I found the SW shop in Piscataway. I still have a couple gallons of the centari left including 1.25 gal of 2a medium canyon red that i bought for the 86GT but heard rumor that the reducer is not available anymore.

old_blue · Aug 23, 2016

Alright Dave, here is my notch

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/dusting-the-notch-off.892828/

Has a few nics in the bumpers but overall solid car. Going to paint it white. What would be a good filler for the front bumper. One spot in particular has a pretty good groove. Thinking remove front and rear bumpers moldings rear glass. Gray primer then some white bc/cc.

Davedacarpainter · Aug 23, 2016

old_blue said:
Alright Dave, here is my notch

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/dusting-the-notch-off.892828/

Has a few nics in the bumpers but overall solid car. Going to paint it white. What would be a good filler for the front bumper. One spot in particular has a pretty good groove. Thinking remove front and rear bumpers moldings rear glass. Gray primer then some white bc/cc.

Can you get me a picture of the groove? Put your hand next to it so I can have perspective of the size of the groove too please.

What color white are you intending? I always thought Ford's paint code 9L was an attractive white. Not too white, yet not too tan by any means. The newer white's like YZ and WT are brighter and nice as well. Kind of depends what you're looking for.

At least for the repair on the bumpers and mouldings, I would definitely take them off. The vehicle will look nicer if you paint all of the trim off.

old_blue · Aug 23, 2016

I used a standard house key for comparison. These are the worst of the bumper damage. They need to be cleaned out so might be a little deeper when repair starts. It's been like this since I bought the car is to 10 yrs ago.

Davedacarpainter · Aug 23, 2016

Yeah man, that's not bad at all. You'll need to smooth out the edges a bit. Use a fairly rough sand paper when repairing them, like around 60 grit. Just in the areas where you'll apply the filler though. Use 180 to 240 further out where you'll spray the primer.

There are a number of choices to repair it. You can use a bondo specifically made for plastics, meaning it stays flexible, but it's simple to use. Very similar to regular bondo with hardener.

There are also epoxy like glues you can use. I've used panel bonding adhesive to repair bumpers before with great success, it can be a little messy though.

I would use something like Polyflex though, you should be able to get a quart of it from any paint supplier. That's the bondo style repair. You'll sand it just like bondo as well. Be sure you don't apply it over paint for similar reasons you don't want to apply bondo over paint on a metal surface.

Once you have repaired the area, spray on a plastic adhesion promoter and then primer over the repair.

Davedacarpainter · Aug 23, 2016

When you get closer to paint, pm me and I'll give you my phone number and I'll help you through the process. It only takes a minute to get the info across to you that would take a half hour to type.

old_blue · Aug 23, 2016

Amazon product ASIN B0007UAXJQView: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ

Something like this? How important is it for brand loyalty when using this product?

old_blue · Aug 23, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
When you get closer to paint, pm me and I'll give you my phone number and I'll help you through the process. It only takes a minute to get the info across to you that would take a half hour to type.

Sounds good. There are a couple of paint shops around. I'll hit you up when I see what brand paints they have. I really want to go with a blue but white is the cheapest. I really like the deep blue the new mustang comes in. Bit probably pretty pricey

Davedacarpainter · Aug 23, 2016

old_blue said:
Sounds good. There are a couple of paint shops around. I'll hit you up when I see what brand paints they have. I really want to go with a blue but white is the cheapest. I really like the deep blue the new mustang comes in. Bit probably pretty pricey

Blue won't cost much, if any more than white. Reds, oranges and yellows are the pricey toners.

I'm going Kona blue on my blue car.

Davedacarpainter · Aug 23, 2016

old_blue said:
Amazon product ASIN B0007UAXJQView: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ

Something like this? How important is it for brand loyalty when using this product?

Not really, there are plastic adhesion promoters that are made specifically for plastics. Hit up an oreillys or other parts store that provides paint to body shops. You can get a rattle can of it from them.

That stuff you showed me really isn't that good of a product.

old_blue · Aug 23, 2016

Okay. I'll hit them up. Thanks

old_blue · Aug 23, 2016

Ok. I'll hit them up. Wanted to slowly work body before I start stripping parts off.

RaggedGT · Aug 24, 2016

Alright Dave,since I've popped up in most of your other threads-I had to come ask a question here to

I found my poor old truck like this when I came outta work today- what are the chances I could fill the dent with spot puddy and cover it with touch up paint?

Davedacarpainter · Aug 24, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Alright Dave,since I've popped up in most of your other threads-I had to come ask a question here to

I found my poor old truck like this when I came outta work today- what are the chances I could fill the dent with spot puddy and cover it with touch up paint?

First just take some lacquer thinner and wipe the black off of it to get a better view of any damage.

MileHi91LX · Aug 25, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
Hey all, I'm Dave. I know, starting like an AA meeting right? Now you'all say,"Hi Dave".
Seriously though. I'm an automotive painter. I have been for a long time now, I started back in 1977 as a kid sanding new dodge vans with 600 wet/dry sandpaper so my brother could paint custom paint jobs on them(the seventies had a van craze going on back then, trick paint jobs, water beds inside).
I've got my own build thread going and a couple people seem interested in different areas of painting vehicles.
I was thinking that if enough people showed interest, I would spend the time to get a thread going on how to paint a vehicle.
Now this would be for those wanting to paint their own vehicles at home or in a rented booth. I could get more detailed for those with more experience as it would go on.
My experience:
I have been an ASE certified painter for a very long time.
If it matters, I'm a third level platinum certified paint tech with ICAR.
I have been certified by most of the major paint manufacturers in their individual systems (Sikkens, PPG Global, Nexa, DuPont, Sherwin Wiliams, etc....)
I've trained literally dozens of people from zero knowledge of painting to become painters over the years.
I spent 11 years in the army, what does this have to do with painting? They trained me not only to be proficient in the areas I was specializing in, but to also train others to become proficient in these areas. Glorified trainer that got to jump out of an airplane once in a while. A specialized meet and greeter, you might say....lol.
Anywho, if your interested, let me know.
This would take some time to work through the whole thing. Maybe I could focus on a topic each month.
Now, I could cover each subject as I would a new apprentice, if you want. This will take a while to get to info you might want.
During this process, if you have a question in a different area than what I'm covering, then just ask. I can PM you with any help I have to offer. I am still currently painting and have resources beyond myself. Though I have the experience of painting literally tens of thousands of cars.
I'm not trying to brag, I know, in the end, I'm just a carpainter. The army taught me what a true hero is, but I am good at what I do. I will deal with you honestly from real experience.
Sooooo, let me know what you think......What's in it for me?
I LOVE painting, I want you to love it too. Besides, all of you know stuff I don't and will probably need to know. I WILL be asking

Im about to blast and paint my front frame and engine bay. Which media should I use and then what prep and paint process should I use? I know as much about painting as I do Quantum Physics.... Which is nothing!

Davedacarpainter · Aug 26, 2016

MileHi91LX said:
Im about to blast and paint my front frame and engine bay. Which media should I use and then what prep and paint process should I use? I know as much about painting as I do Quantum Physics.... Which is nothing!

For the engine bay, unless you already smoothed it, just use sand for the media. All of the metal there is either tough enough to not warp, or you'll have an engine in the way of any ripples.

Next? Spend a good half of an hour blowing sand out of all the. cracks, crevices and other hiding places the sand WILL get in to.

Then, I need to find out if you have a paint gun. If you do, get a two part etch primer and spray two medium coats on all of the bare metal. Then primer it with a primer.

Let that sit for at least a day for the primer to harden. Then sand the primer smooth with 320 grit sandpaper (or lighter like 400-600).

Then for the painting process, you'll want to blow the bay out really good again. Wipe it down with a wax and grease remover, seal it, apply the color, then clear coat it, unless you will be using single stage.

Easy peasy! There are a lot of small details I will give you tonight if you want detailed help. PM me with any questions you want me to address. Or just put the questions here, that'll help out others.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 26, 2016

How big of a job is changing out the front rails using the LMR Kit?? Motor removed of course

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trouble12 · Aug 26, 2016

I would definitely be interested. I had some beginners experience 25 years ago,but have forgotten anything i have learned.

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Davedacarpainter · Aug 26, 2016

Mustang5L5 said:
How big of a job is changing out the front rails using the LMR Kit?? Motor removed of course

Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

Not really a big deal. It'll take more work removing the engine than cutting out the rot and fixing it. Just remember the inner supports for the frame where the k-member bolts up to. @Trbofox did a real nice job on his notch with good pictures. Of course, he fixed a LOT more rot than just his frame rails in his build thread.

Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

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