Can you get your hands on a body nail gun? It's one of those contraptions that welds a copper stud to metal and then you pull on that stud with a slide hammer.
Posted this in Mike's thread...figured someone over here may benefit as well.
I've used that HF stud gun on my friends car , it does what it's suppose to.
Dave,
We had an issue with DTM on my friends 93. It has curled around some of the old paint.
The hood had clearly been painted a few times. We took it down to what we though was good factory paint. The hood had quite of few spots where we took it down to metal. I know the obvious answer is the entire hood will have to be stripped to bare metal. I’m just curious as to why this happens or more specifically what causes it (beyond the fact there’s a chemical reaction).
Any input, knowledge and advise is very appreciated!
We had an issue with DTM on my friends 93. It has curled around some of the old paint.
The hood had clearly been painted a few times. We took it down to what we though was good factory paint. The hood had quite of few spots where we took it down to metal. I know the obvious answer is the entire hood will have to be stripped to bare metal. I’m just curious as to why this happens or more specifically what causes it (beyond the fact there’s a chemical reaction).
Any input, knowledge and advise is very appreciated!
With the different layers of materials being sanded and making edges, it makes areas where the solvent can get to/under and react. It’s now sealed. Sand it smooth with a block. If you gotta prime again, dust the burn throughs till you have coverage .
Dave will have a more professional response
Dave will have a more professional response
So, you think it’s okay as is (once sanded smooth)? If so, should I hit it with more DTM or can we move on to the high build 2k?
The dtm lifted the old paint.
One of two things. One: you sprayed the primer on too heavy and it allowed the solvents to linger in the primer and soak into the old paint and returned it to solution (lifting). There will be no adhesion to the area underneath the lifted area. It will peel of eventually making you want to strap a plastic bag to your head.
Two: You didn't put it on heavy and the older paint absorbed the solvents quickly and lifted anyhow. It will peel eventually making you want to strap a plastic bag to your head.
Two ways you can fix. One: sand out completely the area that lifted and try spraying a couple light coats of primer over that area with the hope there won't be as much solvents present to cause lifting again. Kind of a pot shot with this. If it lifts again you'll want to get the duct tape and a plastic bag for your head again.
Two: Strip the hood completely. No lifting and you get rid of old paint that might have problems that aren't visible right now anyhow. This is what I would do. Couple hours work and you'll know exactly what your substrate is.
One of two things. One: you sprayed the primer on too heavy and it allowed the solvents to linger in the primer and soak into the old paint and returned it to solution (lifting). There will be no adhesion to the area underneath the lifted area. It will peel of eventually making you want to strap a plastic bag to your head.
Two: You didn't put it on heavy and the older paint absorbed the solvents quickly and lifted anyhow. It will peel eventually making you want to strap a plastic bag to your head.
Two ways you can fix. One: sand out completely the area that lifted and try spraying a couple light coats of primer over that area with the hope there won't be as much solvents present to cause lifting again. Kind of a pot shot with this. If it lifts again you'll want to get the duct tape and a plastic bag for your head again.
Two: Strip the hood completely. No lifting and you get rid of old paint that might have problems that aren't visible right now anyhow. This is what I would do. Couple hours work and you'll know exactly what your substrate is.
It could have. Not knowing exactly what products had been sprayed on the hood make it a challenge to know the exact cause.
Lifting will take place within the first ten minutes roughly. If it hasn't happened after that, it usually won't. This will vary slightly on the speed of your hardener and reducer. The slower you go, the longer the solvents stay in solution and lead to the possibility of lifting again
I searched through here and couldn't find anything on wet sanding, so I figure I'll ask so everyone can benefit from the answer.
I recently sanded and cleared a set of tail lights for my 1990 Mercury. It's not a show car, but I would like to get rid of some of the orange peel, of which there is a lot. What are some good steps for this? Not looking for a glass finish, just smoother than what I have.
I recently sanded and cleared a set of tail lights for my 1990 Mercury. It's not a show car, but I would like to get rid of some of the orange peel, of which there is a lot. What are some good steps for this? Not looking for a glass finish, just smoother than what I have.
Just take some 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sand it smooth, then buff it shiny again. Of course this is all predicated on you having sprayed on enough clear.
If you want to blow extra money you can sand with some 3000-5000 grit after the 2000. It’ll buff way faster. Sandpapaer isn’t cheap though.
Add a drop or two of dawn in the water will make it work better
The rattle can stuff obviously won’t be as durable as the two part product sprayed from your gun.
Just be sure to use a plastic adhesion promoter first.