Can you get your hands on a body nail gun? It's one of those contraptions that welds a copper stud to metal and then you pull on that stud with a slide hammer.Hey Dave. Since we've talked, (and I'm slowly coming to terms with having to do body work again) I'm looking at the hood and trunk more closely. There is a creased dent on the front of the hood.
The hack in me would say that this needs to be filled. The other guy that watches you work wants to do stuff the way you do it and try and work out most of the dent. There is substructure behind that dent, I don't know where I'd even start.
Also known as a Stud gunCan you get your hands on a body nail gun? It's one of those contraptions that welds a copper stud to metal and then you pull on that stud with a slide hammer.
With the different layers of materials being sanded and making edges, it makes areas where the solvent can get to/under and react. It’s now sealed. Sand it smooth with a block. If you gotta prime again, dust the burn throughs till you have coverage .
Dave will have a more professional response
It could have. Not knowing exactly what products had been sprayed on the hood make it a challenge to know the exact cause.When I notice the issue, I reread the instructions and notice this dtm had an induction time. I did not follow that with the first coat. The primer did come out pretty thin. Could this have caused the problem? If so, should I be concerned with the other places I sprayed dtm?
Thanks.
Just take some 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sand it smooth, then buff it shiny again. Of course this is all predicated on you having sprayed on enough clear.I searched through here and couldn't find anything on wet sanding, so I figure I'll ask so everyone can benefit from the answer.
I recently sanded and cleared a set of tail lights for my 1990 Mercury. It's not a show car, but I would like to get rid of some of the orange peel, of which there is a lot. What are some good steps for this? Not looking for a glass finish, just smoother than what I have.
Thanks. Just use plain water?Just take some 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sand it smooth, then buff it shiny again. Of course this is all predicated on you having sprayed on enough clear.
If you want to blow extra money you can sand with some 3000-5000 grit after the 2000. It’ll buff way faster. Sandpapaer isn’t cheap though.
Add a drop or two of dawn in the water will make it work betterThanks. Just use plain water?
Perfect. I appreciate it!Add a drop or two of dawn in the water will make it work better
The rattle can stuff obviously won’t be as durable as the two part product sprayed from your gun.Hey Dave. My tail lights and 3rd brake light are pretty dull. I’d like to shine them back up. I figured I’d sand them with 1000 grit and then some clear coat. They sell rattle can clear for plastic with uv protection. Think this would be fine or should I get some I can shoot from a gun.