yeah sorry Mike. If you go to the MM site, they pretty much say you are screwed if you use those spindles with a stock K member
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_front_susp_spindle_warning.aspx
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_front_susp_spindle_warning.aspx
Picturing this (in my head only) I'm wondering why a bump steer kit with the spacers stacked under the tie rod to move it up won't help correct this gap?
Edit: I should've read the link first and then replied. My question is now answered. However!, most of us lower our vehicles so with a bump steer kit and a lowering kit this should help get the tie rod back to an ideal position. Right?
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Its not that bad. I ran that way for a few years. The spindles didn't push my wheels too far out. ( the control arms are longer between the years ). I had an AJE kmember ( not that it made a difference ) and ran offset rack bushings....and a UPR bump steer kit. The end that the outter tie rod end goes into is raised about an inch from stock fox arms.
If you've checked out my thread you'll see I just changed to 94 spindles.
If you've checked out my thread you'll see I just changed to 94 spindles.
I actually would like to get +10mm ea side up front with my current wheel setup. Did you get your bump steer figured out with the 96+ spindles? I think between lowering the car (which lowers the steering rack in relation to the spindles) and a bump steer kit it should remedy most of the gap? Maybe some aluminum offset bushing would be a last resort. I have 95' spindles on my car now but thinking about putting on the set of 04' spindles that where included when I bought my 04' Cobra calipers and rotors.
My car was lowered 1 inch up front. I used offset bushings to raise the rack and the bump steer kit....handled better than stock.
If you want to go wider why not use sn95 control arms ?
Lowering a car makes bump steer worse because angles change in the front end.
I read the SN95 arms are 3/4" wider on each side and that's a bit too much. Besides I already have after market tubular arms with SN95 ball joints and already own 96+ spindles. Pretty much every person I've read about that has tried the 96+ spindles had no issues with bump steer.
94-95 spindles DO push the front wheels out a tad. How much? Not sure, but in comparing pics of my car with Lincoln rotors, vs 94-95 spindles, it does appear the wheels are pushed out a tiny bit. Look at the relation of the side molding near the 5.0 to wheel "depth" Amd you can see it
Old photo from 15+ years ago running SVO rotors.
And recent pic with the 94-95 spindles
It's subtle, but the svo rotors did make the fronts a little more "sucked in" as it would considering sn95 wheels have more backspace than fox 4-lug wheels
Also, you can see the difference between 5lug drum, and sn95 offset disks in the pics as well running 17x8 sn95 wheels. Huge difference there!
Edit: and yes 15 years later I have the same tires on and cell phone cameras are much better than the Sony digital camera I had at the time
Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
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I want the extra width. My front wheels are 18x8 +25mm and are tucked in a bit too far. To avoid running spacers I'd rather just run the 96+ spindles since people that have actually installed them report no issues. My front end is completely coming apart this winter so it's not a big deal.
I'm running the NRC big brake kit up front. I am planning to keep the stock booster and upgrade to a 93 cobra MC. My questions are now:
1) if I buy a Max Motorsports stock prop. Valve delete kit do I still need to buy their plug bolt, extra $16
2) I'm guessing I absolutely need the new bias pro portioning valve
3) I'm planning on buying the MM adapter line kit for the new MC to stock brake lines
4) What else do I need?
1) if I buy a Max Motorsports stock prop. Valve delete kit do I still need to buy their plug bolt, extra $16
2) I'm guessing I absolutely need the new bias pro portioning valve
3) I'm planning on buying the MM adapter line kit for the new MC to stock brake lines
4) What else do I need?
1)No plug req'd if you purchase the prop delete kit
2)Yes, I have the FRPP adjustable prop valve
3) It's a great kit, highly recommended
4) Provide a complete list of what you have and what you need to order and we can help fill in the blanks