The only vacuum that goes into the reservoir in the passenger fender connects to the solenoids and the EGR valve itself. There is no vacuum going anywhere else from it.I'm pretty sure you need the vacuum reservoir?
So I’ve made myself a line right around 13ish° and it runs like crap when it’s set there. Pops in the intake and everything. The only place it seems to run decent at all is way off all of the timing marks.. what do I need to do here?Okay so all the stuff is deleted, no change in how it runs. Except I think maybe it idles better. Now that I have vacuum crossed off the list, I’m honestly leaning towards timing. I don’t think I’ve ever properly set the timing in this car. My goal has always been 12-14°, so I’m working on that currently
Okay, honestly didn’t think I was off enough to have to do that again lol. guess tomorrow I’ll grab the big breaker bar and shove some paper towels in the cyl1 port lol. And yes I was pulling out the spout when I messed with it.Put the motor on top dead center and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder post on the cap.
You will need to get the motor on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder and verify that the piston is all the way at the top of the cylinder. This is TDC.
okay cool, I’ll reset it all tomorrowI’m just throwing it out there but it sure sounds like you are off a couple teeth.
I usually pull all the plugs so it makes it easier to roll the motor over by hand.
I’ll definitely check that out. I remember when we first swapped it we tried both firing orders. I believe it was the HO that wound up working correctly. I’ll go through the whole process after work tomorrow and update you guysI just thought I'd add something here. The factory harmonic balancers can slip over time causing marks to be way off. Bring to TDC and mark the balancer with white out. Check the distributor. Make sure your number one wire is actually running to the number 1 spot on the cap. I've had people think you could put number one anywhere as long as the firing order was correct. That isn't true. Make sure you are using the HO firing order for a mustang 5.0.
You should have direct vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator. So the blue, directly off the intake to the fuel pressure regulator.
Okay so, blue comes from the metal line off the backside of my intake. Green comes off the splitter, and runs into the FPR. Yellow comes off the tree and goes into my EGR valve. Ignore the uncapped areas on the splitter, I just uncapped them.
I fixed the vacuum routing and tore out all of the rest of my EGR stuff and blocked the port off. I have one of those plugs LMR used to sell to “trick” the ECU so there is no CEL. Half of the vacuum lines on the TAB solenoids broke apart in my hands when I took them out lol, so I don’t imagine it was working anyway.You should have direct vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator. So the blue, directly off the intake to the fuel pressure regulator.
You also had the EGR wrong in the above photo, applying a direct vacuum like pictured, opens the EGR valve at idle and causes misfires. The EGR should only be open at part throttle cruise. To correctly connect it, you supply a vacuum source to the vacuum bulb in the fender, and from there to the EGR solenoid in the fender, and finally from the solenoid to the EGR valve. The EEC activates the solenoid, which then supplies vacuum to the EGR valve.
You don’t want to trick the EEC into thinking the EGR is still present and working properly.I fixed the vacuum routing and tore out all of the rest of my EGR stuff and blocked the port off. I have one of those plugs LMR used to sell to “trick” the ECU so there is no CEL. Half of the vacuum lines on the TAB solenoids broke apart in my hands when I took them out lol, so I don’t imagine it was working anyway.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?