Engine Foxbody Mustang A/C Compressor Reseal - Nippon-Denso 6P148A

[manicmechanic007]

Mainly a vacuum test is all that is needed
The pressure test would just be a final double check
Use freon if you are worried about air which I would not be
You are only going to be pressure testing for a few seconds
Use expensive as hell r1234yf if you are real worried about our atmosphere
Pretty sure they just use air to test with when remanufacturing AC compressors

 

[Mustang5L5]

You'd need a decent gauge and not just a generic 0-100PSI or something like that. If i come up with a test method, i'd like it to be something the average person can do with equipment around the garage or home depot. Filling via the Schrader is easy. It's finding something off-the-shelf to cap the two ports on the compressor. You can vac test, but the system operates under pressure so that would be the best way to test it. SOmetimes seals will seal under vacuum and not under pressure.

We do pressure testing at work here and use helium and pump it to a set psi, let it cool for a few hours (as compressing gas creates heat which raises the pressure slightly) and then start the clock to see decay using calibrated highly accurate gauges. We also use helium leak detectors. Not the type of equipment the average person has.

If you do ever pump compressed air (not recommended) into a system to check for leaks pull a deep LONG vacuum on the system. Not 30 mins, but 24 hours or so. My fresh, newly assembled system needed almost this long to pull down to an adequate vacuum the first time around using micron gauges and not the standard 0-30mmHG gauge on a set of refrigerant gauges. Took a long time to get that moisture to boil off. If you cant run the compressor that long, do it in stages. Pull for a few hours. Close the system off, resume when you can. But definitely give it a deep pull. Your average AC shop won't do this, but since you are DIY and have the luxury of time, nothing to lose by pulling vacuum longer.

Also, little tip. While pulling vac, occasionally turn the A/C compressor by hand. there is residual air stuck in some of the oil. Every time i turned it, the micron gauge would blip up significantly for a bit and then come back down after 5 mins.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Bench testing his resealed compressor:
You are going to need to fabricate... (smash tubes and weld) a test manifold IMO
Use an old used manifold
If you replace a lot of compressors like me, you could save and use one of the seal plates
Drill and tap one of those for AN fittings?
Where you guys live in the big humidity, I would not be fond of testing with compressed air either

 

[limp]

Where you guys live in the big humidity,

East of Tampa Florida.... You have to experience the humidity and the " feel like " temps the weather service announces to " appreciate " it..... LOL
NIEVER come to disneyworld between May and September, and early October can be bad too.....

 

[Mustang5L5]

In that case i really really really strongly recommend against pressure testing with compressed air.

Nitrogen is preferred, but Argon or Helium can be used if you have a supply. Both are more expensive than N2, but if folks are TIG welding they usually have a tank of Ar sitting around.

 

[limp]

In that case i really really really strongly recommend against pressure testing with compressed air.

Nitrogen is preferred, but Argon or Helium can be used if you have a supply. Both are more expensive than N2, but if folks are TIG welding they usually have a tank of Ar sitting around.

The verdict is still out on the " leaking oil" Thought I saw a spot, but it might have soaked up from below it....
I poured a little more oil into the compressor and put some fresh cardboard under the paper towel..... I will watch it for another day..
Had my cloth tape measure read to measure for a new belt ( removed the air pumpt)..... oh well.. Its supposed to be a hobby, not a rush job....
I will assemble the entire system on the car and have the AC place run a vacuum test ( or pressure if they prefer) at that time to confirm any leaks... Above my ability and equipment to do this in my garage...

 

[manicmechanic007]

Best investment you'll ever make is a set of gauges limp
When I need to get new hoses for mine, I find gauge sets with hoses are cheaper than I can even get hoses alone for
Consequently, I have several sets now
I use the new ones that do not leak for critical testing
Look to pay about 35 bucks for a cheap set of gauges
I do not play with the fittings that will do both 12 and 134

 

[limp]

So I took mine back apart.. Flat sanded ( sand paper on a flat surface and moved the piece to be sanded in a circular motion on top of the sand paper) the side with the o ring groove some, thinking I might take off a few thousands making it a tighter fit on the ORing....
I also cleaned the groove a bit more with some Scotch Brite..

Flat sanded the other side of the body ( non grooved side) to remove what seemed to be some light corrosion where the Oring seated.....
The kit with the shaft seal had one green comnpressor body oring so I used that instead of reusing the new oring that was in it....

Wish me luck....

 

[Mustang5L5]

Bump.

FYI if any of your guys are thinking of doing this, i'd buy the parts now. Had to search around a bit to find a Santech MT-2140 kit to buy.

 

[TIGGER]

So the links you posted before no longer has stock?

 

[Mustang5L5]

So the links you posted before no longer has stock?

Nope. Dead links…again.

I’m searching the part numbers now. I want to put a few shaft seals to the side just in case. Need to track them down.


I found a few Santech MT-2140 on eBay. Also found this.

Omega Environmental Technologies MT2140 A/C Compressor Gasket Kit + Cross Reference | FinditParts

Omega Environmental Technologies MT2140 Gasket Kit - Nippondenso 6P127A/6P127B/6P148 ✓ Order now for same-day shipping on eligible purchases from FinditParts.com, America's online marketplace for heavy-duty parts.

www.finditparts.com

 

[Mustang5L5]

For shaft seals.

SK-732N

I have found sources that say this one works with the 6P compressor. Would need to comfirm

Nippondenso 10PA-Series Shaft Seal Kit SK-732N

Auto AC compressor reseal parts and kits, automotive AC service parts, compressor reseal kits,10PA,10P, HS18S20, FS10, R4, A6,HT6,Sanden, shaft seal tools...

www.shopcenturyautoair.com

GPD 1311262

I believe I used this one on my last compressor. Pretty cheap on rockauto

As for the main compressor kit, San Tech MT2140 can still be found. Got this on eBay today. I will say I had to search, so this might be something you may want to squirrel some parts away for

 

[manicmechanic007]

Smart move sanding those plates down a smidge
Special tool to install and remove the shaft seal
Luck wished

 

[Yyhoop]

Any advice on finding what model compressor this is. I can’t find a part number on it anywhere.

The rear seal is leaking. But I may has well replace them all

 

[85GTStangGuy]

Looks like 6P148A compressor to me, but I'm no expert. I'll defer a positive id to mr compressor himself, aka @Mustang5L5.

 

[Yyhoop]

Looks like 6P148A compressor to me, but I'm no expert. I'll defer a positive id to mr compressor himself, aka @Mustang5L5.

I may have found the number. It was painted over and I got some of the paint off but I don’t want to scrub much more.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Looks like a FS6 to me

 

[manicmechanic007]

Look it up by application
They made several versions of the FS6

 

[Mustang5L5]

Its the 6P148A. The Ford OE number is just to the right of it but I can't make it out. Standard factory equipped AC compressor.

I actually haven't seen a period correct dealer-installed air conditioning system in quite some time now. A good picture of such a system would be gold as it would clearly show the appearance differences in factory AC vs dealer-installed air.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Off-topic, but I think this is dealer air. The compressor mounts under the power steering pump, and the hoses run over the radiator shroud. You can imagine why many were removed when they leaked and didn't worked. There were a few different kits. Some replaced the heater box, and some added a evap from a different Ford to the bottom of the heater box. They also drilled through the firewall.

It was cheaper to get dealer AC vs factory AC, which is what made this option attractive for those who couldn't afford the $800 factory AC option (roughly $2K in today's dollars)