I did have an issue with my passenger front being about an inch higher than my driver front so all i did was adjust it a inch lower to match the two front. but would an inch adjustment change in the front cause this to happen to my rear? to the point where i cant even get one rear to go up almost at all? i can get my driver rear up 2+ inchs easy with adjustment but my passenger rear is like getting held down and wont come up. The rears used to be perfectly level.....Short of swapping the front coil overs side to side (I think that would be a major pain) drop the adjustment all the way off so there is no spring holding up the front and see if it is still off.
Here's a thought... could the chassis be twisted?
If you can, put the car up on 4 jack stands. Set the height of the fronts to the same side too side and use same pick up point. At the rear do the same thing, same height side to side and same pick up point. If it is sitting square on all 4 jack stands, start measuring suspension mounting points to floor. If any great discrepancy you may start getting an idea what could be wrong. One possibility is that when the subframe connectors were installed (assuming welded in connectors), if chassis was not square a twist could have been induced.
Keep us up to date.
Just re-read post and have some further questions.
Was the added material for the subframe connector at the front end of the connector? If it was, that would make sense. I would bet your chassis is twisted then. Driver front bent down (or passenger rear down). Here's why. You said you had to loosen the passenger front coil-over. That would transfer more weight to passenger front to level the front end. This would rotate chassis and cause passenger rear to move down. Since front weighs more, your adjustment in passenger rear is now having to rotate car toward driver side front (essentially trying to untwist the chassis because driver front really doesn't want to go down lower), which is why it is so hard to raise.
If my theory is right, when you put your car up on 4 jack stands the passenger rear jack stand will need to be shorter than the driver rear (or if you preset jack stands the same height, the driver side will not be touching).
If you put the car up on jack stands, take a pic from on the floor at the front of car looking back at jack stands. Do same from rear as well. Also, a pic of the modified subframe connector.
took me a little to understand what you mean but I see what you're saying now. sadly i dont have a flat driveway to put up on all 4. That is a smart idea would love to try that out!! could be the reason why i'm having an issue because its trying to untwist the body like you said. I did raise the front passenger coilover to match the driver front and they sit uneven. rear had barley any change from that. I should get the frame checked out at a body shop. if it is twisted is that something a shop can fix? i really don't want to go searching for another shell. I really doubt its suspension related. I'm almost certain. I'm sure if i transfered my suspension to another car it would all sit good. its all practictly new or no sign of obvious issue.
If it is twisted, one thing to try is cut out the subframe connectors (especially the one with extra material). If the twist was induced because it was not properly supported when installing the subframe connectors, simply cutting them off might untwist the car.
Could you take it to a shop and just put it up on jack stands to test what I suggested above?
Any pics of subframe connector install?
So that is the passenger rear mount. That is horrible (sorry). I would want to cut it and redo just because of how it fits. Not trying to be a critic or pain but ... UGH
How are the other mounting points?
I fabbed my own SF connectors and welded them in myself and my welds are by no means great either. You deserve a better install than that.
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