I did have an issue with my passenger front being about an inch higher than my driver front so all i did was adjust it a inch lower to match the two front. but would an inch adjustment change in the front cause this to happen to my rear? to the point where i cant even get one rear to go up almost at all? i can get my driver rear up 2+ inchs easy with adjustment but my passenger rear is like getting held down and wont come up. The rears used to be perfectly level.....
Drivetrain Foxbody Rear End Maxed Out
- Thread starter Bryant Magana
- Start date
If there is no damage to any rear mounting points and the problem stayed on the passenger side when you swapped coil overs side to side then adjust the rear springs the same height on the rear and put them back on, your problem is likely one of the front coil overs.
Here's a thought... could the chassis be twisted?
If you can, put the car up on 4 jack stands. Set the height of the fronts to the same side to side and use same pick up point. At the rear do the same thing, same height side to side and same pick up point. If it is sitting square on all 4 jack stands, start measuring suspension mounting points to floor. If any great discrepancy you may start getting an idea what could be wrong. One possibility is that when the subframe connectors were installed (assuming welded in connectors), if chassis was not square a twist could have been induced.
Keep us up to date.
If you can, put the car up on 4 jack stands. Set the height of the fronts to the same side to side and use same pick up point. At the rear do the same thing, same height side to side and same pick up point. If it is sitting square on all 4 jack stands, start measuring suspension mounting points to floor. If any great discrepancy you may start getting an idea what could be wrong. One possibility is that when the subframe connectors were installed (assuming welded in connectors), if chassis was not square a twist could have been induced.
Keep us up to date.
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Ok i'll try that. I know when I have my rear end on jack stands with same pick up points and no pressure applied to my rear end,the rear end will hover with the same height if the coils are matched even. if one coil is higher than the other than that side will hover with a bigger gap of course. until i actually put the car on the floor than that passenger rear just seems to come down really low. I know my subframe connecter on my passenger side had a gap that was filled with plates towards the rear of it. I was always sceptical on the subframe connecter install. I just don't know why the sudden change if it was fine before.
new upper control arms, new carrier bushings, lower control arm bushing aren't torn up. No more sway bar but would that really cause this much of an issue? car rubs bad. ive had other cars with no rear sway bar. car was just sitting,i drove it a week before with no issues around the block. I can't see anything torn up or bent.Frame twist?
- Mar 2, 2015
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Raising the passenger front will transfer weight to drivers rear. So, yes, the front could be causing an issue in the rear. With the weight transferred to that corner it will compress the spring more...making it harder to raise up the rear corner. The front has a heavier spring rate than the rear..so before it can overcome the weight transfer it has to overcome that right front struts spring. Lower the front passenger strut and see if the rear raises.
I tell people that buy foxes to take them to a local body shop with a frame machine and get it checked out. It usually costs about 100- 150 to get put on a frame machine. If its twisted shops here charge about 75 bucks a pull. The plus is that afterwards you know if the body is straight or not. You'd be surprised how many cars aren't straight from the factory.
I tell people that buy foxes to take them to a local body shop with a frame machine and get it checked out. It usually costs about 100- 150 to get put on a frame machine. If its twisted shops here charge about 75 bucks a pull. The plus is that afterwards you know if the body is straight or not. You'd be surprised how many cars aren't straight from the factory.
Just re-read post and have some further questions.
Was the added material for the subframe connector at the front end of the connector? If it was, that would make sense. I would bet your chassis is twisted then. Driver front bent down (or passenger rear down). Here's why. You said you had to loosen the passenger front coil-over. That would transfer more weight to passenger front to level the front end. This would rotate chassis and cause passenger rear to move down. Since front weighs more, your adjustment in passenger rear is now having to rotate car toward driver side front (essentially trying to untwist the chassis because driver front really doesn't want to go down lower), which is why it is so hard to raise.
If my theory is right, when you put your car up on 4 jack stands the passenger rear jack stand will need to be shorter than the driver rear (or if you preset jack stands the same height, the driver side will not be touching).
If you put the car up on jack stands, take a pic from on the floor at the front of car looking back at jack stands. Do same from rear as well. Also, a pic of the modified subframe connector.
Was the added material for the subframe connector at the front end of the connector? If it was, that would make sense. I would bet your chassis is twisted then. Driver front bent down (or passenger rear down). Here's why. You said you had to loosen the passenger front coil-over. That would transfer more weight to passenger front to level the front end. This would rotate chassis and cause passenger rear to move down. Since front weighs more, your adjustment in passenger rear is now having to rotate car toward driver side front (essentially trying to untwist the chassis because driver front really doesn't want to go down lower), which is why it is so hard to raise.
If my theory is right, when you put your car up on 4 jack stands the passenger rear jack stand will need to be shorter than the driver rear (or if you preset jack stands the same height, the driver side will not be touching).
If you put the car up on jack stands, take a pic from on the floor at the front of car looking back at jack stands. Do same from rear as well. Also, a pic of the modified subframe connector.
took me a little to understand what you mean but I see what you're saying now. sadly i dont have a flat driveway to put up on all 4. That is a smart idea would love to try that out!! could be the reason why i'm having an issue because its trying to untwist the body like you said. I did raise the front passenger coilover to match the driver front and they sit uneven(passenger higher). rear had barley any change from that(passenger rear max height still low) I should get the frame checked out at a body shop. if it is twisted is that something a shop can fix? i really don't want to go searching for another shell. I really doubt its suspension related. I'm almost certain. I'm sure if i transfered my suspension to another car it would all sit good. its all practictly new or no sign of obvious issue.
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If it is twisted, one thing to try is cut out the subframe connectors (especially the one with extra material). If the twist was induced because it was not properly supported when installing the subframe connectors, simply cutting them off might untwist the car.
Could you take it to a shop and just put it up on jack stands to test what I suggested above?
Any pics of subframe connector install?
Could you take it to a shop and just put it up on jack stands to test what I suggested above?
Any pics of subframe connector install?
Yeah I thought about cutting them out since i'm 95% they werent installed properly i'll have to cut them out this up coming weekend and see if anything changes. heres a picture of the plates that were added. And I could try doing it in front of my tmrw morning possibly real fast.
pic is the passenger side subframe
connecter.
Attachments
So that is the passenger rear mount. That is horrible (sorry). I would want to cut it and redo just because of how it fits. Not trying to be a critic or pain but ... UGH
How are the other mounting points?
I fabbed my own SF connectors and welded them in myself and my welds are by no means great either. You deserve a better install than that.
How are the other mounting points?
I fabbed my own SF connectors and welded them in myself and my welds are by no means great either. You deserve a better install than that.
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the others are normal but not really sure on how they were installed. i'll cut them out this weekend.
Boostedpimp
20+ Year Stangneter 
- Mar 2, 2015
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Like stated. Get that car on a frame machine at a body shop. They can straighten it out. They usually have a good welder or 2 that can weld the subframe connectors back in right, too.
