Fuel fuel neck filler pipe
- Thread starter jim Rogers
- Start date
85GTStangGuy
5 Year Member
Here's a Ford shop manual that would have some info for ya....
1978 Ford Car Mustang Volume 3 Electrical Factory Shop Manual | eBay
<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">G6</p>
www.ebay.com
Volumes 1 (chassis), 2 (engine) and 4 (body) are also available.
came across an issue with my rpm gauge. all my lights work, except my turn signal lights. The only way they will work the car has to be running, not sure if is the way they are suppose to work. But when i turn on my turn signal or my for way hazard flasher, my rpm gauge will pulsate with the flasher. any body ever come across this problem. Thanks
No, but it sounds like the power for the indicators is somehow tied to the tach. What does the cluster circuit board look like? Pay attention to where the connector makes contact. Those contacts come loose and easily cross. I'm not sure what else it might be if that doesn't help.
They won't work with the key in the "Accessory" position, but they should work in the "Run" position regardless of the engine running.
ok,they won't did order a new circuit board for the gauge cluster. Hopefully that will solve the problem. have another question, can you tell me if the front mount that the bumper connects to, should you be able to turn that square piece so the mounting holes are vertical .Didn't want to force it,untill i found out.
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You know, I'm not sure.... every car I've seen with the bumper removed has had them in a vertical position. I've never had a reason to try to spin them around. They've also always felt really solid when I grab them, but I've never tried taking any kind of tools to them. I'd guess that if they were able to be spun like that that you'd be able to spin them back around?
Maybe someone else has had a similar issue, but I've not.
@extra_stout
@MustangIIMatt
@78 Mach1
@2Blue2
extra_stout
5 Year Member
never had it off. but here is a video showing also a different position:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZXO2ot9DFk
It even looks like they are not identical and a left/right version (the rectangular bracket is not weldet in the middle).
good luck
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZXO2ot9DFk
It even looks like they are not identical and a left/right version (the rectangular bracket is not weldet in the middle).
good luck
extra_stout
5 Year Member
and here is also a video where I would say the rear bumper is removed the first time since factory:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GLyIShwXuU
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GLyIShwXuU
i plan on going through the pain and using the original bumpers. mine are in good shape, once i get the metal parts sand blasted prime and painted .i am going to try to put the rubber bumper back on the steel. has anyone hear ever done that .i know a lot of you are going with the fiber glass ones.just have to find something that will seal to it so it stays on.
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I had mine apart when I did my car in 2001-2002. The urethane outer just bolts on the support bar. There are studs on the inside section of the urethane that poke through the support, you just need to use the appropriate sized nuts to bolt it on, Then there are bolts on the bottom side. It'll make sense when you go to put it all back together, provided the studs are still in the urethane cover.
In the front fender? I left mine out, but that was kind of out of necessity since I lowered the front of my car as much as I did. I'd recommend, if you're able, to at least put some of it back in behind the front tires. The door hinges and jams are exposed if you don't, so any road debris and water (because it is almost inevitable that water will find you eventually....) will splash up into that area.
Blackhawkxx
Advanced Member
- Mar 3, 2023
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