Fuel fuel neck filler pipe

LILCBRA · Jan 19, 2025

Here are the diagrams that are in my Haynes manual.

85GTStangGuy · Jan 19, 2025

jim Rogers said:
if someone could post a wire diagram for the 78 ,v-8 . that would be helpful.

Here's a Ford shop manual that would have some info for ya....

1978 Ford Car Mustang Volume 3 Electrical Factory Shop Manual | eBay

www.ebay.com

Volumes 1 (chassis), 2 (engine) and 4 (body) are also available.

jim Rogers · Jan 21, 2025

this should help. Thanks guys

jim Rogers · Feb 8, 2025

came across an issue with my rpm gauge. all my lights work, except my turn signal lights. The only way they will work the car has to be running, not sure if is the way they are suppose to work. But when i turn on my turn signal or my for way hazard flasher, my rpm gauge will pulsate with the flasher. any body ever come across this problem. Thanks

LILCBRA · Feb 8, 2025

No, but it sounds like the power for the indicators is somehow tied to the tach. What does the cluster circuit board look like? Pay attention to where the connector makes contact. Those contacts come loose and easily cross. I'm not sure what else it might be if that doesn't help.

jim Rogers · Feb 9, 2025

ok,i plan on replacing that plastic circuit board anyway. i,ll start there. am i right when i say you should be able to make my turn signal lights work by just turning the key ahead, and not with the car running. Thanks a lot for your help.

LILCBRA · Feb 9, 2025

They won't work with the key in the "Accessory" position, but they should work in the "Run" position regardless of the engine running.

jim Rogers · Feb 23, 2025

ok,they won't did order a new circuit board for the gauge cluster. Hopefully that will solve the problem. have another question, can you tell me if the front mount that the bumper connects to, should you be able to turn that square piece so the mounting holes are vertical .Didn't want to force it,untill i found out.

LILCBRA · Feb 23, 2025

jim Rogers said:
ok,they won't did order a new circuit board for the gauge cluster. Hopefully that will solve the problem. have another question, can you tell me if the front mount that the bumper connects to, should you be able to turn that square piece so the mounting holes are vertical .Didn't want to force it,untill i found out.

You know, I'm not sure.... every car I've seen with the bumper removed has had them in a vertical position. I've never had a reason to try to spin them around. They've also always felt really solid when I grab them, but I've never tried taking any kind of tools to them. I'd guess that if they were able to be spun like that that you'd be able to spin them back around?

Maybe someone else has had a similar issue, but I've not.
@extra_stout
@MustangIIMatt
@78 Mach1
@2Blue2

extra_stout · Feb 24, 2025

never had it off. but here is a video showing also a different position:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZXO2ot9DFk

It even looks like they are not identical and a left/right version (the rectangular bracket is not weldet in the middle).

good luck

extra_stout · Feb 24, 2025

and here is also a video where I would say the rear bumper is removed the first time since factory:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GLyIShwXuU

jim Rogers · Feb 24, 2025

thanks for the videos, i found out they do turn with a little force. all good now.thanks

jim Rogers · Feb 25, 2025

i plan on going through the pain and using the original bumpers. mine are in good shape, once i get the metal parts sand blasted prime and painted .i am going to try to put the rubber bumper back on the steel. has anyone hear ever done that .i know a lot of you are going with the fiber glass ones.just have to find something that will seal to it so it stays on.

LILCBRA · Feb 25, 2025

jim Rogers said:
i plan on going through the pain and using the original bumpers. mine are in good shape, once i get the metal parts sand blasted prime and painted .i am going to try to put the rubber bumper back on the steel. has anyone hear ever done that .i know a lot of you are going with the fiber glass ones.just have to find something that will seal to it so it stays on.

I had mine apart when I did my car in 2001-2002. The urethane outer just bolts on the support bar. There are studs on the inside section of the urethane that poke through the support, you just need to use the appropriate sized nuts to bolt it on, Then there are bolts on the bottom side. It'll make sense when you go to put it all back together, provided the studs are still in the urethane cover.

jim Rogers · Mar 8, 2025

any thoughts on putting the fender splash shields in,when they restored their cars.or just leave them out.one of mine is cracked, I could repair. thanks

LILCBRA · Mar 8, 2025

jim Rogers said:
any thoughts on putting the fender splash shields in,when they restored their cars.or just leave them out.one of mine is cracked, I could repair. thanks

In the front fender? I left mine out, but that was kind of out of necessity since I lowered the front of my car as much as I did. I'd recommend, if you're able, to at least put some of it back in behind the front tires. The door hinges and jams are exposed if you don't, so any road debris and water (because it is almost inevitable that water will find you eventually....) will splash up into that area.

Blackhawkxx · Mar 8, 2025

I also would try to get them in, it just keeps everything cleaner.

jim Rogers · Mar 9, 2025

ok thats what i will do then.thanks

Fuel fuel neck filler pipe

LILCBRA

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85GTStangGuy

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