Fuel Pump Relay Problem with a twist

liljoe07

5 Year Member

Feb 18, 2009

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Cartersville,Ga

Dec 10, 2009

#21

• Dec 10, 2009

• #21

Posted via Mobile Device

The blue/orange wire at the relay should be the ECM ground.

Remove any of the jumpers you installed on the test port, hook a test light to a 12v source and the blue/orange wire. Turn the key on, the test light should come on, then go off.

See what happens. If it doesn't work, then test the continuity from PIN 22 at the ECM to the orange/blue wire.

Make sure the inertia switch in the trunk is push down first.

 

F

flyin '85

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Jan 4, 2004

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Dec 10, 2009

#22

• Dec 10, 2009

• #22

OK,
Did what you told me, I don't have a test light so I just used my DVM. I also used the pink/black wire for the 12V power. Nothing there key when I turn the key.
I checked for continuity from pin #22 to the blue/orange wire under the seat. No continuity. Ideas ???

 

liljoe07

5 Year Member

Feb 18, 2009

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Cartersville,Ga

Dec 10, 2009

#23

• Dec 10, 2009

• #23

Are you sure it was PIN 22? You need to make sure it was. If you are, then you have an open in the ground wire to the relay.

 

F

flyin '85

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Jan 4, 2004

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Dec 10, 2009

#24

• Dec 10, 2009

• #24

Well let me ask you this. I don't want you to think I am an idiot, I have built this whole car myself, but I did screw up. When I was hiding the wires, I accidentally cut the plug for the VIP/Test Port Plug off. The wires are still in the loom the connector is just no longer connected. Would that have any effect ??? Looking at the wire schematic, that blue/orange wire goes to the Test Connector and is also the ground for the relay right ???
If that's not it, there has to be some sort of "break" in that wire between the computer and the relay right ???

Here are some pics, I just want you to know that we are not working on some cobbled POS. The silver one is the one I sold to get the white one we are working on. Lots of work !!!!!

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liljoe07

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Feb 18, 2009

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Cartersville,Ga

Dec 10, 2009

#25

• Dec 10, 2009

• #25

Posted via Mobile Device

Yes, if I believe the ECM ground from the relay meets at the test connector, the spilts off and goes to the relay from there. Hook them together and then try again. Make sure you connect the right wires.

 

F

flyin '85

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Jan 4, 2004

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Dec 10, 2009

#26

• Dec 10, 2009

• #26

So let me see if I am reading you right. You are saying that the blue/orange wire comes out of pin #22 on the ECM, goes to the VIP Test Connector, then out of the test connector and to the relay right ???
Do you know if the wire splits and turns into 2 blue/orange wires with one going to the VIP Test Connector and one going to the relay or is it just one wire that goes into and back out of the Test Connector ???
If it is only one wire, and I took the connector off, I would have created the break in the wire.

Thanks for the help !!!!!

 

liljoe07

5 Year Member

Feb 18, 2009

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Cartersville,Ga

Dec 10, 2009

#27

• Dec 10, 2009

• #27

Posted via Mobile Device

Once the orange/blue wire gets to the VIP connector it splits there. The fuel pump trigger is the only terminal that has two wire on it. After it leaves the test connector, it goes into the dash connector right by the test port, and on to the relay. So if the VIP connector hadn't been cut, and you looked at the back of it, it have two wires in the fuel pump trigger location. One to the ECM and one to the relay.

 

F

flyin '85

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Jan 4, 2004

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Dec 12, 2009

#28

• Dec 12, 2009

• #28

BIG thanx to liljoe

Thanks so much for walking me through this. It wasn't hard to find the wires because I left them right where they were. You were 100% correct though, once I connected the wires everything worked pefect.
I just hope everything else works fine. It seems to now but I am not quite ready to start it yet
Thanks Again liljoe !!!!

 

liljoe07

5 Year Member

Feb 18, 2009

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Cartersville,Ga

Dec 13, 2009

#29

• Dec 13, 2009

• #29

Posted via Mobile Device

Hey, no problem man. Just keep us updated.