full floor board

[Bullitt]

BarnStang - what would a full pan install cost generally?

I'm in a situation where I had some patch panels put in by a less-than reputable shop and now have rust problems again about 8 years later (they "layered" the pans on one side and the seat pans are rotting out). I want to go the full pan route to get rid of any seams and leftover issues from the patches.

Car would be stripped inside (cept for wiring), but would still have the drivetrain in it. Doesn't need toeboards, these are still nice and solid.

Just trying to get a feel for costs so I can get a feeling if the shops I'm calling for quotes are ripping me off, grossly underestimating / never done the job, or are in the ball-park.

Thanks!

 

[BarnStang]

Ummm, I probably am not supposed to answer that on the forum. So, I will be vauge. Figure at LEAST two days, but I have done it in one. If you want to grind down the plug welds I know it could be done in an 8-10 hour work day. THat's assuming NOTHING goes wrong and everything goes smoothly. Like, you said it does not need toe boards. I have to take your word on that, and that ALL the metal under all the parts of the full floor pan are intact and not rusted at all. Typically, the back corners at the torque box, and the back corners at the wheel well where the seams meet are rusted underneath. Stuff like that. So, for a cost, check some local hourly rates. You could call a restoration shop you know about...and "they" could give you a better cost estimate.
A word on the "estimate". Our shop will not give an estimate. We can give you a rough idea, but too often things beyond our control-additional rust- has to be delt with. If a shop gives you an estimate, it's either inflated to cover additional work, and they keep the extra if they finish early. Or, they rush the repair and shortcut it to stay inside the estimate. No offense to anyone, there may be some shops out there that can nail an estimate every time. Tough to do.
Like you said, someone put the new metal over the old. I cut it all out and grind off the spotwelds smooth on all the frame rails, rockers, toe board, and transition panel. All the old metal is removed completly. Lay the pan in, outline the rails with a sharpie, then take it back out and drill all the holes for the plug welds, reinstall it and use a porta power to press each part flush and weld in place. It will be solid as a rock if I weld it in. Hope that helps.

 

[BarnStang]

I tried to add my signature via edit, but it didn't take. I added the shop website link...