switch is a very likely candidate. Not 100%, but way on up there. Check repeatedly with an ohmmeter to see if either of the two pins ever short to ground as someone goes back and forth from neutral to reverse (no need to crank the thing of course). If either pin grounds out at any point, the switch is gone.
Fuse # 1 Keeps blowing when car is put into reverse
- Thread starter MustangX
- Start date
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So this test is hooking one of the ohmeter cables to one of the prongs, and one to the chassis of the car or the transmission case? What would I be looking for on the ohmeter to know that it has shorted to ground?
I went ahead and swapped the switch out, and learned that that the switch can be used as a tranny fluid drain plug as well, or at least half of it
, anyways, before I swapped the switches, I hooked the ohmeter tester and tested the switch itself (2 prongs) repeatedly (rerverse-neutral, reverse-neutral), and saw normal resistance when in reverse and sometime the ohms would jump from .003 ohms, to like 12.23, .175, 3.5 (Random) Ohms-when switching in and out of reverse, is that normal? the switched looked fine to me, so tommorow I gonna refil the tranny fluid, replug the harness and hope for the best (didnt want to even try, needed to drain the rest of the tranny fluid and clean up the initial mess I made).
Now I am doubting that it's the switch, if it doesnt work I'm going to give up and take it to a shop, and just pay for it to get fixed. I figured at least I tried, and learned some new stuff.
or just drive it till next year, then get it fixed. that ludadris song starting to sound real good to me now.
when the inspection guy says hey your reverse lights dont work, I'm gonna be like, 'let me show you how it's done,' "MOVE BISH, get out the Way..." .
So this test is hooking one of the ohmeter cables to one of the prongs, and one to the chassis of the car or the transmission case? What would I be looking for on the ohmeter to know that it has shorted to ground?
I went ahead and swapped the switch out, and learned that that the switch can be used as a tranny fluid drain plug as well, or at least half of it
Now I am doubting that it's the switch, if it doesnt work I'm going to give up and take it to a shop, and just pay for it to get fixed. I figured at least I tried, and learned some new stuff.
or just drive it till next year, then get it fixed. that ludadris song starting to sound real good to me now.when the inspection guy says hey your reverse lights dont work, I'm gonna be like, 'let me show you how it's done,' "MOVE BISH, get out the Way..." .
correct. try first post to ground. Ohmmeter should always read infinity or open circuit. If it is anywhere around 1.00 or below (0.00 is dead short) throw it out. Move to post two and repeat. Same song second verse. Post to ground should be open circuit at all times. post to post ought to be near 0.00 all the time. 12 ohms is no good, that means you can get at most 1 amp (12 volts divided by 12 ohms = 1 amp) through that circuit, which probably won't do for the lamps to be as bright as expected...
Bob,
I dont want to jinx it, but after I replaced the backup lamp swtich refilled the tranny fluid, everytime I've reversed today the fuse has not blown, I even put the e-brake on, and kept doing reverse, neutral, reverse neutral, for a good 20-25 times. so far so good, I hope that by me replacing the switch; was the fix.
I will follow up in one week. or report if I am having anymore symptoms.
Thanks again for your help, I am glad there are people like you on this forum!
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