Fuse link bad?

Creomod · Sep 5, 2024

what causes a fuse link to go bad? Reason I’m asking is my car has been shutting off. Installed new distbutor today(this morning). It started set timming spout out & now it’s doing a crank no start. Looking for voltage( while crank start is there) I busted out the meter. I do have 12 v injector,at the ignition switch,at the red/green wire on tfi connector,but this time I’m getting 11.3 volts at the coil +. I was getting 12 bolts before when car would just shut off. Can it be that the fuse link was bad then made it worse by cranking? I know sounds stupid but only other thing I did was move/wiggeld the harness in the back where the lights are . Can the coil just be bad?It’s a 89 5.0 coupe t5. Still unresolved from the shut off on hiway but I was getting 12 at the coil then but can it be that it was an intermittent maybe loosing the 12 at the coil & now I lost it completely? Or might I have 2 issues?

Creomod · Sep 5, 2024

Ok now I tried again to check voltage it went to 12 v on coil fired off then shut off after 15 sec or so

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

Fuse links? They "go bad" when too much current flows through them. They dont magically reconnect however....you know I read your other post on this. Did you ever check into that code 18?

Help Code 18

I have a 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 5 speed the month I have a 80 millimeter mass air meter calibrated for 24 injectors 65 throttle body Holley intake manifold upper and lower ported stock heads 1.7 rocker arms 24 injectors BBK shorty headers Dynomax super turbo mufflers with pipes stock H pipe with...

stangnet.com

You need to figure that out because youll continue having problems no matter what distributor you put into that.

rednotch · Sep 5, 2024

Most I've replaced failed from corrosion. Had a few growing green fuzz out of the heat shrink over the years that caused voltage issues. Some of them are older then I am these days.. One day I'll rewire mine with a modern fuse link box vs wire but ill wait until the next engine build for that. Simple voltage check on both ends of the link while doing a wiggle test should show a problem link.

Creomod · Sep 5, 2024

89ripper said:
Fuse links? They "go bad" when too much current flows through them. They dont magically reconnect however....you know I read your other post on this. Did you ever check into that code 18?

Help Code 18

I have a 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 5 speed the month I have a 80 millimeter mass air meter calibrated for 24 injectors 65 throttle body Holley intake manifold upper and lower ported stock heads 1.7 rocker arms 24 injectors BBK shorty headers Dynomax super turbo mufflers with pipes stock H pipe with...

stangnet.com

You need to figure that out because youll continue having problems no matter what distributor you put into that.

Well not really. I am under the impression that code 18 is just my car shutting off. What can that be

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

Creomod said:
Well not really. I am under the impression that code 18 is just my car shutting off. What can that be

It could be the heart of your problem. Did you read that link? Jrichker (RIP) goes over some of the symptoms in that post.

Creomod · Sep 5, 2024

Are you talking about the 22 ohm resistor? I’m gonna look at that but I was stuck on the coils intermittently having/loosing voltage. Can that be the same issue as the ohm resistor?

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

You could be dealing with a few different issues here. Just did a quick search on "code 18 stalling" and a bunch of posts from here (and other ford forums) show up. Some people describe a lot of what is going on with regards to stalling out and being able to turn back car on after car sits for awhile.

It can be frustrating but take your time with diagnositcs. I myself have never had/heard of this problem but, one thing at a time. The spout code is important because the computer needs to be able to control timing for it to run right. Remember, we can only set the initial base timing.

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

Also there could be differences with code 18 if its keoe and cm

Creomod · Sep 5, 2024

89ripper said:
Also there could be differences with code 18 if its keoe and cm

Where can I get a replacement 22 ohm resistor? Do they sell them or I can use whatever fuse link to replace it?The 18 is c what’s the difference there sir?

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

Im sure a 22k resistor can be found at any electrical supply place. Follow the diagnostics in that post, it shows the steps and where to find this resistor on the car. The difference most likely is when the problem occurs on your car. For now do the tests outlined

Creomod · Sep 5, 2024

89ripper said:
Im sure a 22k resistor can be found at any electrical supply place. Follow the diagnostics in that post, it shows the steps and where to find this resistor on the car. The difference most likely is when the problem occurs on your car. For now do the tests outlined

I found one but does lot look like the wire one. The one on car looks like a fuse link this one looks like this. It’s a 22ohm 1/2 w .Is what the guy said also that 22ohm resistor is one the wire for -coil. The 22 ohm resistor looks good at least to me and I have no idea what I’m looking at. But I know there is an issue with the coil wiring. The fuse link on the red/green coil + wire looks soft. I peeled off the blue covering and the wires were a little corroded. Where can I get a fuse link? When I get fuse link can I use a butt connector to splice it to the wire?

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

Hold on, backup. Im actually learning along with you. Like i said ive never seen code 18 before. Your resistor is probably fine but did you do the tests outlined in that code 18 thread?

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

You never tried running this thing without the SPOUT connector, right?

Creomod · Sep 5, 2024

89ripper said:
You never tried running this thing without the SPOUT connector, right?

Hmmm . No I haven’t ran it without the spout. I didn’t try any of those things mentioned. I have some issue where the coil sometimes has 12v & sometimes it dosent. When can turns on it has 12v. But it shuts off & then I go with multimeter & check for voltage & not even 1 volt when car dose the crank no start after it shuts off. So I figured there is an open in the wiring. By the way checking voltage key on & coil connector not connected to coil. Just probing the connector.

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

Gotcha. I was just thinking in my head that maybe code 18 was set because you ran car without the SPOUT connector. Im going to search up a few videos i watched on how the coil operates so you can get a better understanding of how it works. Be back in a bit

89ripper · Sep 5, 2024

Check this video on how to test the coil. If you dont have tools for that you should probably invest in some. There is some great content on this channel besides the coil. Remember to use the checklist referenced right here on Stangnet. Use these videos as a supplemental guide. Good luck.

Creomod · Sep 7, 2024

I have the tools I think I found the issue to this thread & the shut off on hiway. Voltage not going to coil. It was the fuse link n drivers side pillar tower. Pulled wire out connector 201 or c201 then found fuse link soft & corroded. Still gotta swap it. If that doesn’t work I’ll splice into red/green coil wire kinda but the ignition switch & just run a wire straight to + coil. Thanks you and yea I saw hat video as well . Thanks to all of you but ultimately got help from some guy named Kennith Collins. Thank you all o yea the code 18 was coming from me swapping distbutor multiple times pulling spout while on to set timming I hope lol once I straighten that coil wire I’ll check for codes to see if that 18 went away

89ripper · Sep 7, 2024

Yeah i had to think about that code 18....it wasnt good to have that but forgot you were swapping out distributors.

nickyb · Sep 7, 2024

Hope that fuse link solves your issue.

Fuse link bad?

Creomod

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Help Code 18

rednotch

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Creomod

Help Code 18

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Fuse link bad?

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