Getting new gears, some questions

66StangFastback said:
Ok, so an 8" will hold up to about 400 at the flywheel and 350 at the rears if not abused? Possibly mroe if you don't run slicks? Can't exactly abuse a rear end with a C4..

Yes, If you don't run slicks you should be fine.
Like most other mechanical things related to cars . . .

The life of the object is directly related to

A. How hard you beat on it

and

B. Who built it
 
66StangFastback said:
Ok, so an 8" will hold up to about 400 at the flywheel and 350 at the rears if not abused? Possibly mroe if you don't run slicks? Can't exactly abuse a rear end with a C4..

You obviously have never seen a hard shifting shift kit in a c4 or one with a transbrake and a lot of torque :D

A stock c4...doubtful a built c4 for racing yeah it can be done. Granted its not like dumping the clutch every gear in a stick...thats why I went to the 9. My t-5 is my weak link now. With my current power I think it will last... a few seasons at least lol.
 
66StangFastback said:
What all have you done to the rear. I've heard stock rears from the fox body stangs and explorers won't hold a whole lot more than a 9"?


not a whole lot.
straight axle 8.8s have seen 8 sec passes w/o any problems (built of corse)
They are pretty strong but it just takes some money.
same goes for 9" axles. Im building one now and that takes money too. I lot of money. I basically replaced everything so it wont break. im gonna have one sweet as roller, to bad no engine to put in it.:bang:
 
If your T-5 has a 3.35 first gear, then I agree with D.Hearne on 3.55s. If you have a 2.95 first gear, then you can use 3.80s without first gear being too low (truck-like).

Yeah, the '06 will flat smoke the tires in first, but first gear is lower, I'm pretty certain, than 2.95. My '66 has a 2.95 first gear and 370s. It seems like a good combo to me.
 
Dude... Please... listen to the advice you're being given here. You sound just like my neighbor kid. Good kids... just don't know a whole bunch.. YET. The chances you'll need to replace the clutch packs are slim, really. You don't drag race for a living, do you? It sounds like a buddy of yours who just happens to know a technical term such as "clutch packs" is trying to impress/scare you about them. In the end it doesn't matter what you do for a locker or limited slip.... just be smart and pick one. And the odds are that you have a 2.95 first gear... go with the 3.80's and move on to the next project. Putting in gears and a traction device is not "too serious for a rear".



xj220 said:
I don't want anything too serious for a rear. Right now the car is used for spirited driving on twisty roads.
 
I am listening to the advice. I've heard from numerous sources of having clutch packs wear out so I wanted to confirm what I've heard, or seek some truth to the matter. This isn't a small purchase as $1k is not something that can easily be thrown away by an average person. We don't do any of the work ourselves so a shop must do it. I just want to double check everything before I commit.
 
xj220 said:
This isn't a small purchase as $1k is not something that can easily be thrown away by an average person.

I hear ya on that one. I put a lot of thought into much smaller purchases. You are getting good advice here. :SNSign: I do not have a limited slip and do not really miss it. I saw one article where there was a before and after test of a limited slip install of a modestly modified mustang. The limited slip improved 1/4 mile times by ~0.1 seconds. In the world of drag racing that can be a lot, but for the street??? Also if you read around, depending on the limited slip selected handling manners in the rain and snow suffer. So I do not think the "need" for a limited slip is a forgone conclusion.

Concerning the rear end ratio, I just posted some math on http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=622949
Might be useful for your situation.
HTH
 
how would a lsd hurt you in wet weather and snow? i would think both tires providing traction would be better. try getting up a grassy hill thats wet with one wheel, not fun. i would do it right the first time.
 
LUCAFU1 said:
how would a lsd hurt you in wet weather and snow? i would think both tires providing traction would be better. try getting up a grassy hill thats wet with one wheel, not fun. i would do it right the first time.

As long as you only drive on straight roads no problem. However, both tires hook up while your in a turn and you're headed toward the ditch.
 
LUCAFU1 said:
how would a lsd hurt you in wet weather and snow? i would think both tires providing traction would be better. try getting up a grassy hill thats wet with one wheel, not fun. i would do it right the first time.
I take it you've never applied too much power with a trac-loc unit on a slippery road:D and done a 180 in the middle of the street:rlaugh: Or done what I did recently with the 06 Stang, I mistakenly down shifted from 5th to 1st, hunting for 3rd on a wet clover leaf interstate offramp. The Stang went all over the place til I got it under control.:nono:
 
Maybe I dont know exatcly how a limited slip works. But it my understanding that the clutches allow it to peg-leg until some tourque was applied. Am I right? If so, it would not hurt wet traction unless your right foot got heavy.

xj220, go LSD (whoa man,) 2 wheels>1

LUCAFU1 said:
try getting up a grassy hill thats wet with one wheel,

:lol::lol: :lol: :lol: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: a grassy hill,

Edit: ^^^^^^ we need some cooler laugher faces

Double Edit: This is my 200th post
 
D.Hearne said:
I take it you've never applied too much power with a trac-loc unit on a slippery road:D and done a 180 in the middle of the street.

The key here is not applying too much power....and not going from 5th to 1st.

I personally find an LSD easier to use in slick conditions.

Also, get the LSD and get the 3.55s. In a light car like a '66 with a T-5, it'll be tons-o-fun.