Going Kenne Bell (again)

tmoss · Nov 15, 2005

put a 3/8" NPT pipe plug in that hole - it's just the water passage.

That does look like an FMU and with the right size injectors, you should not need it.

BlackVert · Nov 15, 2005

plugged it, thanks.

damn i work slow. tonight i worked for 2 hours and all i got done was putting that plug in, putting the temp sensor in, tightening the other plug in the back (what a pain to get to), put in the stock fpr, and hooked up the water hoses.

i may actually get the blower on soon, it looks like that is almost next

final5-0 · Nov 16, 2005

BlackVert said:
plugged it, thanks.

damn i work slow. tonight i worked for 2 hours and all i got done was putting that plug in, putting the temp sensor in, tightening the other plug in the back (what a pain to get to), put in the stock fpr, and hooked up the water hoses.

i may actually get the blower on soon, it looks like that is almost next

Quality work takes time

besides

If your havin fun .............................. who cares

Grady

94GTLaserRC · Nov 16, 2005

BlackVert said:
plugged it, thanks.

damn i work slow. tonight i worked for 2 hours and all i got done was putting that plug in, putting the temp sensor in, tightening the other plug in the back (what a pain to get to), put in the stock fpr, and hooked up the water hoses.

i may actually get the blower on soon, it looks like that is almost next

DOnt sweat it...Took my 6 hours to change C/C plates
RC

KBCobra95 · Nov 16, 2005

Took me three months to do a h/c/i swap

281pony · Nov 16, 2005

on those injectors, if you can see the threaded hole through the rails the injectors are in properly. they look fine in the pics, but seeing the threaded hole will be the way to tell for sure.

they will get much tighter when you bolt the rail down.

BlackVert · Nov 16, 2005

final5-0 said:
Quality work takes time

besides

If your havin fun .............................. who cares

Grady

here's some quality for ya. i was looking at the instructions again and i realized that there is a different thermostat housing that you are supposed to use, so i went through the box patrick gave me, and sure enough, there it was.

amnit:

RTFM!

it'd be more fun if i wasn't midnight before i could start.

BlackVert · Nov 16, 2005

281pony said:
on those injectors, if you can see the threaded hole through the rails the injectors are in properly. they look fine in the pics, but seeing the threaded hole will be the way to tell for sure.

they will get much tighter when you bolt the rail down.

after i got the tops into the rails, the mounting holes lined up perfectly, so it must be right. they just seemed looser than i thought they would be.

if my battery wasn't dead, i could check for leaks.

KBCobra95 · Nov 16, 2005

Why do you need a different T-Stat Housing? Mine fit fine.

BlackVert · Nov 16, 2005

KBCobra95 said:
Why do you need a different T-Stat Housing? Mine fit fine.

have you put the belt on yet?

according to the instructions, the big hose from the radiator needs to go under the belt. the L shaped inlet on the stock housing makes it sit up too high (supposedly). the new housing is more angled, and with the modified hose, it fits under the belt.

see figure 18 here:

http://www.schwarzmann.com/garage/kb95manual/kb95manual.html

KBCobra95 · Nov 16, 2005

Yeah I forgot about the belt. Mine has a spacer underneath it so I don't have that problem.

ZimStang · Nov 16, 2005

keep posting pictures and explaining this stuff... someday ill have a kb and this is gonna help me

BlackVert · Nov 19, 2005

god my back hurts tonight. all that leaning over the car must not be good for it.

whatever. here's the story of my day today, more QUALITY work ...

i tried to put the blower on today, but the edge of fuel pressure regulator bracket was in the way. so i took the bolt to the fuel rail out to put some washers behind it to move it out a little. well it slipped out of my hand and fell into one of the intake holes (#6) all the way down into the cylinder head.

i tried fishing for it with a magnet, but no luck. so i had to take the lower off again. then i could see the bolt and get the magnet thing to it, so i got it out. phew.

anyway, the gaskets still looked good, so i cleaned off the rtv (ultra black) stuff and reused the gaskets. bad idea?

you can believe i was alot more careful around those holes the 2nd time around. so i finally got it back to where i am ready to put the blower on again. maybe tomorrow. and i have the washers in there pushing the fuel rail out about 1/4" or so. i think the blower will fit now.

i also put a T in the 11/16" tube from the intake to the vacuum tree and connected the pcv valve to it. big whoop.

BlackVert · Nov 19, 2005

Question:

The instructions say to put the fpr hose on the vacuum side (between the throttle body and the blower), not the boost side (after the blower), but they also assume you are using their fmu. and someone said the fpr needs to see the boost. so should i hook the fpr tube to the boost side instead?

urban96 · Nov 19, 2005

should be fine reusing the gaskets since they were never heat cycled. i would just tq em down a little tighter then the last time

94GTLaserRC · Nov 20, 2005

BlackVert said:
god my back hurts tonight. all that leaning over the car must not be good for it.
..... well it slipped out of my hand and fell into one of the intake holes (#6) all the way down into the cylinder head.
.

Somebody didnt watch My Cousin Vinnie

My back killed me just from putting in the C/C plates (prior back surgery)

I dont know how Mike does it
RC

BlackVert · Nov 20, 2005

urban96 said:
should be fine reusing the gaskets since they were never heat cycled. i would just tq em down a little tighter then the last time

the manual calls for 23-25 ft lbs, so would 28 ok?

Don 95Vert · Nov 20, 2005

The FPR line goes to the boost side - use zip ties as clamps.

BTW: I used to have a KB tech tips page back when I had my KB - I just resurrected it - it's not too big, but it's now in the tech articles on our website - see sig for link. May have a couple of tips you can use...

Don

BlackVert · Nov 28, 2005

Don 95Vert said:
The FPR line goes to the boost side - use zip ties as clamps.

BTW: I used to have a KB tech tips page back when I had my KB - I just resurrected it - it's not too big, but it's now in the tech articles on our website - see sig for link. May have a couple of tips you can use...

Don

Good info there, thanks.

For spark plugs, I got the Motorcraft ASF32C-F4 ones. They are 1 heat range cooler than the ones that are for a stock 1995 5.0 (ASF42C-F4). Is that OK?

BlackVert · Dec 26, 2005

well i got the spark plugs in and the t/b on today.

i probably should have put the plugs in before i put the blower on, because it was a real pain getting to the 2 closest to the firewall on the driver's side.

i had a really hard time getting the old tps off, but i finally got it

i also put the dizzy back together ... exciting, huh?

here's what's left:

- find a spot for and mount the coil
- extend the coil wire
- extend the iat sensor wire (the iat is now in the #5 runner)
- put in the plug wires
- install the egr
- install maf and move the air filter into the fenderwell
- load the tune into the tweecer
- say 10 hail marys
- turn the key

maybe i'll be driving it by new years ...

Going Kenne Bell (again)

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