I’m thinking that is what I used, or a knock off. But that was about 30 years ago.
How is the paint sticking and holding up? Did you use a primer or adhesion promoter or spray it directly on a clean surface?
Progress Thread Goofy fuel gauge on slow progress
- Thread starter 7991LXnSHO
- Start date
-
- Tags
- electrical
How is the paint sticking and holding up? Did you use a primer or adhesion promoter or spray it directly on a clean surface?
-
Sponsors (?)
Willybill32
But at least it's tight!
I haven't actually used it yet, but I'm sure someone on the site has used it and can answer the questions. According to SEM, you spray it directly on a clean surface. https://www.semproducts.com/product/bumper-coatertm-aerosols/39153
Bill
An update on my other project. It has been red with the trim (minus bumpers) for a while. I posted the bodywork several pages ago, but don’t remember where I posted the post paint pics. The drive pack is in, the AC is hooked up, the bottom has been painted and undercoated. It might get out by summer. (And I did not make the Hastings track event.)
The fans are blowing out of the original trunk floor. There is condenser core and a new floor above the fan now.
The fans are blowing out of the original trunk floor. There is condenser core and a new floor above the fan now.
Last edited:
This is my Corvair project, still up in the air. The fans are in the bottom of the front trunk. The engine, trans and diff are first on the floor jack, then they are innsyalled in the rear of the car.
In the second to last pic, (from the back of the car), the finned oil pan is in the middle and you can see the swing arms. There are some cooling tins still off and no exhaust.
The last pic is the driver’s side valve cover and the intake log. Not as much will be visible with the cooling tins installed and mufflers in the way.
The low mile, 80 hp engine has been replaced with a 130-140 Hp engine. That’s still not a lot of power, but it’s a light car that will feel even more like a go cart soon.
In the second to last pic, (from the back of the car), the finned oil pan is in the middle and you can see the swing arms. There are some cooling tins still off and no exhaust.
The last pic is the driver’s side valve cover and the intake log. Not as much will be visible with the cooling tins installed and mufflers in the way.
The low mile, 80 hp engine has been replaced with a 130-140 Hp engine. That’s still not a lot of power, but it’s a light car that will feel even more like a go cart soon.
Why can't i get my bearings here. Whatt am I seeing?
Willybill32
But at least it's tight!
I’m more used to seeing two-door coupes, but this looks really nice! What year Corvair is it? Is that the standard engine?
Bill
Bill
Yes, there is an air cooled flat six in the back.
This has been upgraded from the 1961’s stock little 145 ci engine to a 1964’s 164 ci, bored 40 over. Head mods (biiig valves, combustion chamber reshape, and some porting), a Crower custom cam, a lighter weight fan and pulley, and an alternator instead of the generator are the big engine mods. And electronic ignition is going in after the initial break in.
I’ve been planning this project for 35 years, plus the time in the shop.
I could have gone with VW big bore cylinders with some more machine work, and switched to heads with two carbs a piece, cut off the intake logs and used three Porsche carbs per side, or went with a custom EFI, but this should do with the Powerglide. It should still be simple enough to be reliable and low hassle. The other combos like to rev and I am leaving this car as an automatic. So torque production and a lower rpm hp band was more important this time.
The swept roofline looks fast to me whether moving or not. It also applies to the full size Chevys of the era. It will not be custom with a K, but there will not be others like it at car shows or while cruising.
Last edited:
I like it, when I was a kid one of the guy's at the body shop had a duel carb'd 4 speed coupe, don't know if it was a spyder or not but it was spunky.
Willybill32
But at least it's tight!
I was always frustrated with Ralph Nader's condemnation of these, as they were definitely a different design direction from other early 60s cars, especially when the issues were addressed in the 1965 version. There was a 180 HP option with turbocharger as I remember, and a 140 HP option with four carburetors I believe. They were a lot more fun than the Falcons and Valiants they competed against.
Bill
Spyder is a 1964 and earlier turbo model, 1965 and later Corsa started out with the turbo, but went to the 4 carb 140hp engines for cost. The two carb with scoot was the 110 hp that this one is based on.
I keep thinking if power was the goal, my money would have been better spent on a 347 build.
Back to my Mustang.
Worst case after a quick look, I bet I need a radiator (or a water pump). And I need to/get to go test today before it rains or snows this weekend. It made a huge puddle starting right up front after I parked it last time, and it drained the overflow tank and the radiator is drained down 5”. I will have to borrow a pressure tester as mine is still packed up or hiding.
There is a Huge price difference between the price of the Carquest and Napa radiators. What brands do the service techs currently prefer and hate?
Thanks!
@MustangIIMatt @Mustang5L5 @LaserSVT and ???
Worst case after a quick look, I bet I need a radiator (or a water pump). And I need to/get to go test today before it rains or snows this weekend. It made a huge puddle starting right up front after I parked it last time, and it drained the overflow tank and the radiator is drained down 5”. I will have to borrow a pressure tester as mine is still packed up or hiding.
There is a Huge price difference between the price of the Carquest and Napa radiators. What brands do the service techs currently prefer and hate?
Thanks!
@MustangIIMatt @Mustang5L5 @LaserSVT and ???
Don't know what the techs like but my old 3 row copper/brass was better at cooling then the 2core alum.one I run now.
It doesn't overheat but for new build I think I'll get old one re done.
It doesn't overheat but for new build I think I'll get old one re done.
I almost got a SBC powered corvair in " the day" This would have been my everyday driver car ( very young) so I backed out....... Talk about fast and handle like on rails.... If I recall the V8 crank turned the opposite way of the corvair flat 6 and you had to actually run the ring gear backwards.... Something like that anyways...
Good suggestion. We should have a radiator place in town, but I’m not finding it. I might have to make a few calls. The radiator is not corroded, but I had been smelling an occasional whiff of antifreeze and was hoping it was not the heater core.
The engine ends up mostly in the back seat. I’ve not looked too far into the conversions as the kits need to be pieced together or taken out of a donor car.
Another option is a Toronado swap. The track width has to be off, but a big block Olds would add a lot of torque and weight.
The way I upgraded, most anyone not a Corvair fan will not see anything very out of line under the hood. The alluminum distributor, fan and idler pulley, ac compressor and alternator should blend together and look right. I hated to get rid of the functioning generator, but the electric fans would have been a big drain.
I second this. I’d rather recore a brass radiator than buy a new AL.
Nothing wrong with AL radiators, as many oems come with them and cool perfectly fine. It’s just given the two options, I’d prefer to have a brass unit.
I have a brass 3-core in my fox. I can keep my car cool by blowing a hair dryer into the radiator. It barely needs any E-fan at all when stationary.
Last edited:
455 olds are considered lighweight, whats why you see them in alot of Jet boats ( squirters). Not much webbing in them...
Yes, it turns the corvair into more of a mid engine.....
Compared to the shipping weight of 350 lb for a fully dressed air cooled six in a crate, an Olds 455 at 620lbs, (fully dressed, no flywheel), is a lot of extra weight in a compact.
That’s about the same as a Buick 455, a Ford 460 and just a lighter than the Pontiac. I know the late emissions blocks all had more windows in the webbing with other weight and performance cutting, but had not ever heard of the tall deck Olds blocks being called light weight blocks. The diesel blocks are heavier.
Have you lifted the cast iron intake manifold off one?
My stock cast iron 330, 4 BBL Olds intake felt as heavy as a whole 1979 302. (OK, Almost. There is a lot of metal in that intake, and even the Edelbrock replacement was a lot of metal to carefully set in place without help.)Anyway, 500 ft lb of torque would be worth the extra weight.
Did not know any actual weights... I had boats most of my life and so I picked this up being around some people with jet boats ( not my thing)... Learn something every day......Compared to the shipping weight of 350 lb for a fully dressed air cooled six in a crate, an Olds 455 at 620lbs, (fully dressed, no flywheel), is a lot of extra weight in a compact.
That’s about the same as a Buick 455, a Ford 460 and just a lighter than the Pontiac. I know the late emissions blocks all had more windows in the webbing with other weight and performance cutting, but had not ever heard of the tall deck Olds blocks being called light weight blocks. The diesel blocks are heavier.
Have you lifted the cast iron intake manifold off one?
Anyway, 500 ft lb of torque would be worth the extra weight.
The factory intake on my 440 in my dodge, is heavy, not sure I could set in now.... I have an aluminum intake for it, but I just never wanted to fool with it being too tall or something not fitting right...... The tie strap on the heater hoses now has the correct retainer ..
Similar threads
