Got my 95 cobra done.... then split block?

mbatchelder · Aug 15, 2007

Well for the past 2 months my car has been torn down and ive been working on it.. Stock Block, Stock Cam, Stock Pistons/rods, Stock Throttle body, Stock 1.7rr... Ported & polished gt40's, Ported & Polished cobra lower, Ceramic Headers, Vortech V1, Msd Btm Aluminum Driveshaft. Big proM maf calibrated to 38#inj and 38#inj Was told i could use the stock cobra fuel pump (orderd a 255lph) Well i got to drive it 2 days very very fun... from a 50 roll itll roast the tires.. Then i was going down the freeway a new vett rolls up beside me and paces me so i revd it and he hits it so then i drop a gear and caught up and passed w.o a problem then poof white smoke everywhere and the car shut off instantly i rolled to the side of the road and anti freeze and oil everywhere under the car but when i lifted the hood and looked i saw nothing... weird so this weekend i start the tear down and damage check.. So my questions to you guyz what kind of short block should i build and keep the price under or around $2k?

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5spd GT · Aug 15, 2007

I'm curious, what is the Cobra fuel pump size that someone said it would be okay?

So did the headgaskets turn out okay?

You can get a rebuilt 302 done nicely at DSS for a bit under 2,000...basically replacing what you had. You really do not need to go the stroker route, unless you upgrade the stock block.

Get your tuning issues and fuel requirements set-up for sure next time you mess with the vettes

Good Luck!

mbatchelder · Aug 15, 2007

not sure what the stock size the fuel pump is on the cobra i tried lookin it up but didnt find anything..

I havent took the heads off yet but just from looking at the top half of the motor no sign of anything bad... the car didnt leak a ton of oil and fluid till it was bein put on the flat bed (and it didnt leak out the exhaust)

here is a small cell vid of the motor runnin b4 it blew
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UCO7OFFTmGs

i will have to look into the dss motors

I have a 87 stang i was going to restore it only has 80k on it. motors still good. do you think that motor with like a main support could handle the sc?

5spd GT · Aug 15, 2007

The '87 block has the same strength as your '95 block.

Just get a safe tune at a dyno shop that knows what they are doing. You are already near the limits of your block, so it is already like walking on thin-ice...

You can crack the stock block at 350rwhp or 600rwhp - Just depends on a few factors...

The main girdle will help keep your block together 'after it cracks', in turn possibly protecting your heads/cam/valvetrain. It very slightly helps the rigidity of your block.

An aftermarket block is obviously the best choice, but usually the most expensive

www.dssracing.com utilizes a stock block. They are put together well for a decent price...

Pokageek · Aug 15, 2007

Hey, sorry to hear this man. Maybe also check with Rick91GT and see if he can do anything for you.

BlackVert · Aug 15, 2007

definately check the head gaskets. did you have it tuned, or at least something to pull timing under boost? stock timing under boost can cause detonation and a blown head gasket or worse depending on how bad the detonation was

for under 2k you'll need a stock block.

if you build it yourself, you can probably put together a 331 short block for under 2k. where are you located?

mbatchelder · Aug 16, 2007

I had a base timing of 13 and the msd btm was on 3 so every 1 pound of boost it was retarded 3 degrees

im in Michigan

bimmertech · Aug 16, 2007

did you have a t-rex on top of the stock pump?

if not then you need a 255 intank(already ordered), t-rex, a dyno tune by a competent tuner, and maybe some 42's.

looks like a pretty text book example of not the right combo.

good luck.

mbatchelder · Aug 17, 2007

bimmertech said:
did you have a t-rex on top of the stock pump?

if not then you need a 255 intank(already ordered), t-rex, a dyno tune by a competent tuner, and maybe some 42's.

looks like a pretty text book example of not the right combo.

good luck.

no t-rex

so i need a t-rex and a 255? or is the 255 enough

i decided to take my 87 stang block (80k onit) put the steeda #19cam and forged eagle rods in it with a main griddle for now.... dyno tune will have to be later closet place to me to do that is like 2 hrs away and est $600 in labor they said to do it.. so i will have to wait on the tune.. Ill post some pics of my broke motor then the re-rebuild lol... Should be done within the next 4 weeks

5spd GT · Aug 17, 2007

Unless someone knows something I don't...a stock Cobra fuel pump shouldn't be even close to enough...but I'd like to find out what size it is for my own personal 'knowledge' or lack there-of.

I'm just aware of an 88-95lph fuel pump.

bimmertech · Aug 17, 2007

5spd GT said:
Unless someone knows something I don't...a stock Cobra fuel pump shouldn't be even close to enough...but I'd like to find out what size it is for my own personal 'knowledge' or lack there-of.

I'm just aware of an 88-95lph fuel pump.

i personally don't think the cobra's are a different size.

to the op yes you do need a 255/t rex and a tune if you want your engine to live more than 2 days again.

tune tune tune--don't drive it till you do or you will blow your **** up again. it is expensive but it is cheaper than having to replace motors every 2 days.

mbatchelder · Aug 17, 2007

true a tune will be cheaper than a new motor.. but i think with the 255 pump and a trex with my 38# injectors and calibrated maf and my msd retardin my car i should be alright without a tune for a little bit.... belive me i will let you guys know if i blow up my motor again lol

The Green GT · Aug 17, 2007

Get a tune.

Consider it insurance.

R.A.T.M. · Aug 18, 2007

sent you an email, I have a motor you might be interested in.

rj95svt · Aug 18, 2007

The GT's and cobras have the same fuel pump. Like said above if you want it to live get a tune otherwise you'll be crying when you blow it up or blow a headgasket not long afterward. Atleast get a wideband so you can keep up with the A/F ratio.

Venom351R · Aug 20, 2007

I never would dare of hammering on an untuned boosted car like that, b/c this is what usually happens. Im not sure those #38's are big enough either. Id say your issue did come from your fuel pump, a stock pump wont handle the fuel requirements for boost.

mbatchelder · Aug 20, 2007

Redline_351R said:
I never would dare of hammering on an untuned boosted car like that, b/c this is what usually happens. Im not sure those #38's are big enough either. Id say your issue did come from your fuel pump, a stock pump wont handle the fuel requirements for boost.

Yea i would have to agree the stock fuel pump cant handle it lol...
and with my supporting mods a tune might have been smart lol...

Well i got lucky this saturday and got a 302 roller block off ebay for $31 (no rust on cyclinders and stock bore) i just gotta drive 25 miles to pick it up... Then my 331 stroker with 8.2 compression build up will start all forged internals with custom cam.. im gonna work on it over winter and do a dyno tune the day it goes in my car...probly april 08 @ latest

So in the mean time this weekend im going to stick in my 87 mustangs stock 302 in my 95 cobra switch over all the belts/waterpump and put my cobra intake on and slap the supercharger on it (this time with a 255 & t-rex) and drive it like i stole it and if it breaks oo well i only have 2 or 3 months i can get out of it b4 i put er up for winter..

If all goes will ill post up a nice vid of my car running monday and sum pics of the re-install of the sc lol

rj95svt · Aug 21, 2007

Atleast put it on a dyno and make sure the A/F is close and not to lean. If it is over 12 shut it down. If it's under 12 with the BTM you should be able to get by. If it was me and the A/F was right at 12 I would purchase a snow boost cooler. If it's over 12 I might would consider using a FMU until you get the new motor done and a tune.

Your probably gonna be close with the 38's now but the 331 will bare minimum need 42's but I would go with 55's. I would get the walbro GSS 340 fuel pump. It's the high pressure forced induction 255lph fuel pump.

final5-0 · Aug 21, 2007

I wanna say I remember the Cobra pump is like 110 lph

but

It really matters not
what ever size it is
its too tiny

Those 38's are not big enough :Word:

Its just silly to run any combo at ... or ... close to the fuel limit
but
With boost even more so

I'd consider 42's or 55's ...
just talk several other boosted combo owners for the straight scoop

My preference of fuel control is tune
over
Mechanical means like fmu

Ask Q's
Research as you are doing now

That will prevent any more costly events ... Good Luck !

Grady

Jackie Chan · Aug 22, 2007

aem widebands are 250 or lesss, get one. 255 pump and 42's and my a/f was perfect

Got my 95 cobra done.... then split block?

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