granada swap question (prob. stupid)

Just took the first road test today after the overhaul on the '65. Will post a link to pics. Have a brake ?. I did the granada swap...all new parts. No power assist. Stayed manual. Let me preface by saying my car has not been on the road really since '93 (a crime in itself) so my feel for it is not up to speed yet. When applying brakes you'll stop...but you will not lock 'em up. Like I said, it's been awhile and it's probably stupid. Is this normal or should I have more brake? I figure better safe to ask than replace a nose. Thanks
Oh yeah, no leaks in system and bled 3 times.
 
Need more info

Did you rebuild or at least adjust the rear brakes? What type of proportioning valve did you install? You said new parts. Does this include pads and rotors. What type pads? Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Is the pedal soft, spongy, hard?
 
Degins, if you are diskbrakeswap on ebay it was your kit. Nice kit BTW and good price for all you other guys! Great CS also. Granada spindles, rotors, pads, adjustable proportioning valve, new rear brakes (10") with wheel cylinders, granada mc with original mustang pushrod. Bench bled mc. Pedal feels soft. Rears have not been adjusted to perfection but have been adjusted some. Have to finish that. I'm just not sure if it is going to provide that much more braking when "perfect". New lines and adapters at mc with no leaks. Like I said, it's been awhile and I'm definitely used to newer car brakes. Just finding out what everyone's brakes are like. I'll stop...but your not going to lock 'em down in an emergency.
Thanks,
Duane
 
brake update

Alright. Adjusted prop. valve all the way out. Rears aren't locking. Just a soft pedal, kinda spongy. Any ideas? All lines, connections, etc look and feel tight with no leaks. Using granada mc with original pushrod. Also, just around the neighborhood and pull back in...rotors are HOT. Burn finger hot.
 
Was the MC bench bled? Are the rear brakes adjusted up well? Most times I have pedal feel problems on our newer cars, the rear drums are way out of adjustment. Matter of fact, one seems to stay adjusted and work a little better than the others and it will throw you thru the windshield :D
Edit: Upon actually paying attention to what I read, I'd blame it on misadjustment of the brakes. 4 clicks on the rear adjuster can go from OK to wiplash.
 
MC was bench bled. I'm going to try re-adjusting the rears tomorrow or Tuesday...may hunt tomorrow. I'll let you know how they turn out. I've noticed (barely) that if I pump the brakes when coming to a stop it's a little better. A little. It feels like they're not holding tight when stopping and with everything I've done it has me confused. It could be rears out and heat buildup in front. Thanks and I'll keep you posted.
 
blue65coupe said:
Alright. Adjusted prop. valve all the way out. Rears aren't locking. Just a soft pedal, kinda spongy. Any ideas? All lines, connections, etc look and feel tight with no leaks. Using granada mc with original pushrod. Also, just around the neighborhood and pull back in...rotors are HOT. Burn finger hot.

Sounds like your pushrod is too far in and slightly keeping the brakes applied even when your foot is not pushing on the brake pedal. I'm unclear if you mean you are using the stock Granada pushrod, or the stock Mustang pushrod (??)

You need the Mustang's pushrod installed in the Granada MC. With the brake pedal at rest (not being applied), you should be able to grab the brake pedal and slightly move it rearward (toward the driver's seat). If there is no slack in the brake pedal with it at rest, then it's pushing the MC pistons in, which is slightly keeping the brakes applied, and would also explain the mushy brakes, because it won't allow you to completely bleed the brakes out. --I've had this happen to me before with this same conversion.

If there's no keeper on the Mustang's pushrod to keep it locked into the Granada's MC, make sure that when you pull back on the brake pedal that the pushrod does not fall out of the MC's bore. If it does, fabricate and mount a pedal stop that won't allow the brake pedal to pull back far enough for the rod to fall out.

www.ultrastang.com
 
blue65coupe said:
I've noticed (barely) that if I pump the brakes when coming to a stop it's a little better. A little.
Aha! That to me says misadjusted rear brakes.

When I got my current daily driver, you had to pump the brakes 5 or 6 times to get a solid pedal. Adjusted them up abotu 9 kilcks and they were much better but still not to the level of my other car. At this point the pedal was ok, and if I tapped the brakes once, then tapped harder, on the 3rd and final push, I had great brakes.

Every successive tap of the pedal brings the shoes closer to the drums, closer to where they should stay when properly adjusted with your foot off the brake. The farther the shoes have to move to meet the drum, the worse the feel will be.
HTH
--Kyle
 
Thanks for the tips. Ultrastang, the pushrod is the mustang pushrod and the pedal can move back at rest. I can pull the pedal back prob. 3/4". 5.0, I'm going to re-adjust the rear Tuesday afternoon and drive it and see how it does. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll keep you posted.
Duane