Grinding into 2nd and wont stay.

jdtaylor86

New Member
Jun 14, 2005
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I have a t-5 tranny in my 92' GT. I belive the tranny was rebuilt not that long ago.At least thats what the guy told me two months ago when I bought it. The car has always shifted firm since I got it. By firm I mean that when shifting it actually clicks into each gear. It's kinda hard to explain but it feels like each gear locks into place. I havent had any problems with it until about three weeks ago. I was taking off from a light and went to go shift into second. When I released the clutch it felt like the shifter moved forward just a bit and I heard a grinding noise and it wasn't in gear. I pushed the lutch back in and it went into gear fine. Now it has been doing that all the time and it is getting harder to get it to stay in 2nd gear. None of the other gears do it.What could this be. Im looking for possibilities;I know no one can give me a definitive answer without see it.
I dont Know if it matters but engine combo is a rebuilt 302 bored .030 over.New JE pistons and rods.TFS Twisted Wedge Heads, a Trickflow TrackHeat Intake manifold.Edelbrock/BBK Throttle Body,FRPP 75mm MAF,10" K&N filter,Heddman Full length headers,3 1/2" X-Pipe with dumps,and a ? Stage III clutch,with billet adjustable quadrant and firewall adjuster. Please Help Me.
 
It sounds to me like your clutch is out of adjustment and not disengaging all the way. Adjust it so that you have both full engagement and full disengagement and let us know what effect it had.
 
yea, but popping OUT of gear is 99% of the time an indicator of an internal problem.

How is the shift? If it's a bear to get into any gear, tighten some slack out of the cable. My personal opinion on this one is that you toasted your sincro's, second gear (second gear always goes out) and maybe a shift fork as mentioned.
 
Well I just got home from work and on my way home no fifth gear wouldnt fully engage.This is a joke. So far everyone else Ive talked to has said bad synchros. I have never done tranny work so im really looking for some help here. I was told to get a world class rebuild kit and just do it.They said that there is a kit that comes with new first and second gears also. Will I need them? Is that grinding noise my actual gears grinding together? Also what is the video that everyone keeps refering to?

Someone said it could be a clutch misalignment or a bent shift fork. How do I detect either one? I appreciate all the help.

Hopefully I was descriptive enough about the problem.
 
when you let off the clutch pedal where does it grab? RIGHT off the floor or partway up? If it grabs literally RIGHT off the floor, your adjustment is too loose. Another sign would be rolling forward on flat surfaces with the clutch pedal fully depressed and it in first. IF you don't have either of these scenarios, you have internal problems for sure. IF it grabs RIGHT off the floor, tighten it up.
 
synchros would be my guess...esp condisering my stang has no trans in it right now...i had the exact problkem of fighting it to get into gear and it grinding like crazy and popping out and i took my trans out at work and tore it down to find my 1-2 synchro was toasted and that my 3-4 was on its way out
 
The synchro blocker rings aren't just his only problem. Synchros are only brake pads to slow the gear down before slider engagement. Since 2nd and 5th are popping out the points on the those gears and also on the sliders are blunt and worn. depending on the wear you can get away with new sliders for 2nd and 5th but if the contact points are bad on those gears you'll have to buy new gears parts cost would run up $350. But the other gears could be in the same shape so that why shops and people say toss it for a new one.

When their opened up for snychro ring replacements that's about it cause the next time there'll be other costlier parts in need of replacement that are only worth investing in if you build your own trans as i do with my t-5's and tremecs.

Then yea there's also the clutch being adjusted properly, do you have an aftermarket shifter with stop bolts also they may need checking to see if they allow the shifter to travel far enough. Depending on the shifter brand some say adjust the bolts with you shifting either 1st to 4th or 2nd to 3rd. With the bolt back off you should shift to one of those said gears( look on the web site for detailed instructions) hold the lever there, run the bolt to till touches lever then back bolt off 1/2 turn and lock the bolt there.

Back to the trans if you drive yours mild with a lil track racing once in blu mood you're fine putting in a new t-5 (if it boils down to it) but if you drive hard like to pass peeps and race here and there and/or plan for more HP's you may as well chunk in at least Tremec 3550 if ones available anywhere or Tremec 500 because a T-5 going to break a gear sooner or later and could ruin the whole trans rendering it totally worthless. I quit running T-5's when i ran out of stock parts to keep them up and now have 2 Tremec's that easily handle my abuse with little wear and alot of use over time compared to the T-5's.