GT upgrade problem, I'm distraught and begging 4 help

[e50095]

If someone can steer me straight I'd really appreciate it. I'm systematically attempting to build a decent car. Started with a 2.3 LX. I wanted to stay 4 lug, because I love the 10 hole wheels. I found GT front spindles and sway bar, and bought new struts, drilled rotors, 73mm calipers, Bendix pads, master cylinder, and front tires. I put it all on, had the car aligned, and was loving life. 10 miles later the left front wheel starts smoking and the burning smell was strong. I jacked it up, and the wheel would not spin with 1 hand pressure. Pulled the wheel off, unbolted and removed the caliper, and the rotor turned freely. The rotor was scored a little and the new pads seemed a little injured, definitely smelly. I decided I had received a dud caliper, so I picked up a new one and put it on. I noticed one of the prongs on the inboard pad had broken off, but they seemed like they had still seated okay. Bled the brakes and off I went again. Yup. life is good, that bigger sway bar is awesome, and the brake pedal pressure seems okay. I had worried cause I heard a stock master may have trouble pushing enough fluid for 73mm calipers. 10 miles later, I'm back in the driveway with the same symptom. Is it possible the new master cylinder is not releasing the pressure on the caliper after I take my foot off the brake? Or could it be the inboard pad with the broken prong? I appreciate any feedback I can get....I'd really appreciate your time and expertise. I'm ready to head to jump off the roof.

Ken in Pa.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

Could have burnt up the bearings causing it to bind. :idunno: but you would think the rotor wouldn't spin though so that puzzles me.

 

[90stang5speed]

i had a problem like that on a old bronco that i bought used. when i got it i saw the right side rotor was in bad shape. I bought new brakes and rotors. shortly after replacing them i noticed a pull to the right that i thought might have been an alignment issue until the brakes started smoking. thought I had a bad caliper too so bought those. the problem didnt go away. as crazy as this may sound, a buddy said that it sounded like a colapsed brake hose going to the caliper. it would let fluid in but not out. We made a small bet that he was wrong but, as it turns out, he was right. might want to give that a try

 

[Pokageek]

I'm guessing brake hose too. Upgrade to stainless steel while your there.

 

[jrichker]

Another vote for a bad brake hose.

 

[Mustang5L5]

There really isn't an mc suited to running the 73 mm calipers with stock drums. The pedal will be soft and you may actually lose performance. I would recommend putting the stock 60mm calipers back on

 

[e50095]

thanks...

thanks for the input fellas....I changed the brake hose, and still no joy. Drove it around for 3 miles and the burning smell came back. I jacked it up and the tire won't spin without a lot of effort. A friend of mine suggested that by putting on a new master cylinder and bleeding the whole system, I may have pushed some debris into the prop valve. It is after all 17 years old, with 152k. I do have another one that I pulled from the junkyard in the garage somewhere, so I suppose I'll try that. On the 73mm calipers, the pedal is a bit soft, but it stops 300% better than with the 4 cyl brake setup, so I can't say that I'm unhappy. When I do go V8 in a couple years, I'll go SN95 like I probably should have in the first place.

In summary, everything is new with the exception of the prop valve. Can we agree that the new master cylinder can't be bad? I would think by design it couldn't keep pressure on the line after the pedal is released.

thanks again for the suggestions....

Ken in Pa.

 

[Pokageek]

I have an sn95. I had the same hang ups. Every time I changed something - I had some other issue. Drove me nuts. I finally got it all done..now I am selling it to get something else cuz I am bored, lol.

 

[e50095]

home free

well, i think I got it. I changed the prop valve, and put on the correct 65mm calipers and pads, another $80....and it seems to have fixed my problem. Ten miles and no burning as of yet...and after a test drive i jacked it up and the wheel turned freely. A faint residual smell, but I suppose that's from the rotor being heated up so badly, so I figure that'll go away soon.

Thanks for the advice fellas. I sincerely do appreciate it. I'm slowly but surely learning something...

Ken in Pa.