guys who did thier own head & cam install. i have ??????

[donkey_punch]

i'm getting ready to install my AFRs 165 and my crane cam. now i have never done anything like this. so i plan on buying a comp cam degree wheel kit. which comes with a degree whel and dial indicator. View attachment 518432

i already have a socket set and a set of both standard and metric wrenches. just wondering if i need any other tools, beside a torque wrench? (which i will be picking one up in a couple of days)

also what did you guys torque you aluminum heads to?
i read the usual run a heat cycle then back each one out and re-torque them. but i also read in one of the mags, a while back. when they did an engine build with aluminum heads. the heads where to be torqued to like 75 lbs. but they first torqued them to 70lbs. let them sit for a half hour then re-torque them to 75lbs. was just wondering what procedure you used when torquing your heads. oh yeah i'll be using cometic head gasket, if that would make a difference.

thanks
joe

 

[1105]

I torqued my top bolts to 80, bottom to 75 with thread sealer on the bottom bolts only. Other than the basic tools and a torque wrench, you have just about everything you need (tool wise) to complete the head swap. Since its your first time you'll be there for the better part of the weekend, and if you have A/C on your car still that'll make it even worse when installing the cam since the A/C condensor will be in the way.

You'll also need a PS pulley puller and installer if you dont allready have one of thoes because there is a bolt behind the pulley to get that bracket off

 

[Rootus]

When I installed my AFR's, I followed AFR's own install instructions: http://www.airflowresearch.com/support/sbf_install.htm

One thing that I got -- a comp cams crank socket to go with the degree kit. Makes turning the engine in either direction real easy.

Dave

 

[donkey_punch]

i forgot to mention that i'm also changing the timing chain. will i need to pull the crank pulley off?

and thanks for your input guys. and for the link.

joe

 

[final5-0]

i forgot to mention that i'm also changing the timing chain. will i need to pull the crank pulley off?

and thanks for your input guys. and for the link.

joe

The crank pulley will have to be removed so you can remove the harmonic balancer.

Your gonna need a torqux bit to remove the belt tensioner. Your gonna need a gas line removal tool to seperate the high pressure fuel lines.

Later
Grady

 

[donkey_punch]

The crank pulley will have to be removed so you can remove the harmonic balancer.

Your gonna need a torqux bit to remove the belt tensioner. Your gonna need a gas line removal tool to seperate the high pressure fuel lines.

Later
Grady

i almost forgot that i have the gas line and a/c removal tools. thanks for reminding me. have to put them in my tool box before i lose them.

ok so i need a torqux bit and a crank pulley remover.

so i need this harmonic puller/installer kit? View attachment 518423

i have to check my garage i think i have a small set of torqux bits for a socket. but i may be wrong.

keep it coming guys

thanks again
joe

 

[final5-0]

You need nothing more than a ratchet & socket to remove the crank pulley.

Yes, you need the hb puller kit. You can borrow it form your local parts house or buy one as they are not expensive.

Later
Grady

 

[mootang]

I believe you will also need a gear puller!

plenty of antisieze.

teflon tape.

assembly lube for the cam.

silicone.


if anything else comes to my mind ill let you know.

 

[mo_dingo]

i almost forgot that i have the gas line and a/c removal tools. thanks for reminding me. have to put them in my tool box before i lose them.

ok so i need a torqux bit and a crank pulley remover.

so i need this harmonic puller/installer kit? View attachment 518408

i have to check my garage i think i have a small set of torqux bits for a socket. but i may be wrong.

keep it coming guys

thanks again
joe

The torx bit you need is a t-50, same size as the seatbelts in our cars and many others. The ones at sears have it setup for a 3/8" ratchet which makes it really easy, and they are very strong. Typical torx bits will break.

You will need a t-20 torx to take off the 5.0 HO plate on top of the upper intake manifold to access the center two bolts.

If you are going to run roller rockers, you need a taller valve cover, which means you need a 3/8" intake spacer so the EGR and the throttle body will not hit the valve covers.

If you are installing a new intake manifold at the same time, you will need the SN95 adapter which means you will need to grind down your throttle cable bracket down to fit the adapter. If you aren't doing a manifold at the same time, disregard this section.

You need to remove both threaded inserts from the stock heads and install them in your new heads. This allows you to bolt up your accessory brackets to each head. If you can't get them out (likely situation), you need to get some from a local distributor. The outside thread is 9/16NC and the inside is 7/16NC. They aren't easy to find BTW, you will need to make a lot of phone calls.

You need new head bolts. Throw away your old ones, seriously (do a search if you are not familar on this. Torque them to the specs on the card that comes with the bolts. Mine said 60ft lbs I believe. Don't screw with the different crazy methods that magazines and others come up with. Just follow the cards recommendation and go in the proper sequence.

You need different size pry bars. Get a set at harbor freight. The heads both intakes will be really stuck on.

Be careful not to damage the deck surface of the block when prying, and anything else you need to save.

If you can get a wrench on the bolt that is behind the power steering pulley, DO IT. It is a real PITA to get the PS pulley off, and even worse to get it back on, without stripping the threads. The tool you can rent from autozone, but both pullers that autozone had had stripped bolts. I had to use my tap/dye set on them just to use them. I also had to retap my PS pump threads because the bolt was so screwed up.

Label all hoses and where they go. Lable all wires and connectors. Trust me, it makes sense where they go when you remove them, but when you have to reconnect them it can become confusing.

Make sure you know how to remove the quick disconnects on the fuel lines. If you have never done it, look it up on the net. THey have pictures on how the tool is used.

You need a long bolt to remove/install the cam. Trust me, you will need it. It makes things much easier. I can't remember the thread, but it's a NC and probably 3/8.
Scott

 

[JJ95GTID]

Yeah, I was gonna mention that too. My ARP bolt kit said to torque aluminum heads to 60lbft.

 

[AznStanger3v]

while mo dingo has some good info, not all of it applys to everyone.

-Im running taller, fox covers and i grinded nothing and use no spacer
-I have an aftermarket manifold and I didnt grind the throttle bracket
-Use the helicoils that came with your heads, the ones in the stock heads arent worth the fight. If your heads didnt come with them, then go buy some from a parts store.
-Dont pry on things. I had no problems getting my stuff off. it just needs a little jazz, nothing that needs to be pried upon.
-the PS pulley is a press on. I dont know what kind he has, but mine presses on. the tool is like 10 bucks and it works great.

All in all, you will benefit from mo's advice.

mootang- what did you use the gear puller on? I didnt need it at all.

 

[mootang]

I just remember borrowing one ahead of time. i couldn't remember if i used it though.

I couldn't remember if you need it for the timing chain gears or not. now that i think of it, I think they just slid right off.

 

[final5-0]

Joe

You didn't say if you were going with stud or ped rockers.

I'm pretty sure that some of the smaller ped rr's will fit under the stock vc's.

As for the Fox vc's they have more room but have a profile thats allows you to use them with no spacer, at least with the Edel intakes you can cause I've seen it done.

Later
Grady

 

[donkey_punch]

i'm have 1.7 ped rr's. i was told i shouldn't have a clearence issue.

i'm not doing a new intake. my funds ran out after i bought a turbo kit, and all the little nik naks. so the stock intake goes back on for now.

i have some money aside, but the car is going to need a new clutch soon. so i need some coin to drop on a new clutch, fly wheel, pilot bearing etc....

i also bought a set of 12 point ARP head bolts. all new gaskets, a tube of assembely lube, and a bunch of other stuff that's taken up room that i can't remember.

thanls alot guys for your responses.
again just keep the info coming.

joe

 

[Joes95GT]

teflon tape.

silicone.

...Gulp....

Joe

 

[red94fiveo]

I honestly think the clearance issues with rockers are car by car. I'm running a set of comp pro mag rockers, which are small. They fit under the Fox VC's fine, but I need a 3/8" intake spacer to clear everything.

 

[final5-0]

I honestly think the clearance issues with rockers are car by car. I'm running a set of comp pro mag rockers, which are small. They fit under the Fox VC's fine, but I need a 3/8" intake spacer to clear everything.

You bring up a good point Mark.

For some time now I've suspected the Ford intakes sit lower than all the others cause I seem to see the spacer thing come up more often when they are in use.

Later
Grady

 

[Joes95GT]

I'm running an Exploder upper and lower manifold with Fox V/C's. I didn't need any kind of spacer but it was TIGHT!

Joe

 

[Rootus]

I'm running an Exploder upper and lower manifold with Fox V/C's. I didn't need any kind of spacer but it was TIGHT!

With my Edelbrock intake it fit without a spacer, but only after I ground about 1/8" from the bottom of the EGR flange . But I also have a 1/4" cork gasket for the Fox VC's, to clear my Scorpion rockers, so maybe with a stock gasket the Edelbrock would fit without any mods.

Dave

 

[LukeDaddy]

I know its gonna sound odd, but I couldnt bring myself to stuff the nasty stock rusted ass bolts back in my block so I bought a full ARP bolt set to reinstall everything.. IMO it was money well spent...


Luke