N8Miller said:
ready for 5spdgt to get mad....??
Why would I get mad? Were talking about stangs aren't we
N8Miller said:
go with a 75mm t-body. since your going to get a 75mm bullet (most likely), why would you go with a smaller throttle body and restrict the air?
No a 75mm TB is not needed and a waste. The throttle body can be used as a point of velocity. So many say the main velocity is made in the lower intake specs but if you look at the Performer vs. Performer RPM guess what is the difference: The UPPER intake and when people have swapped they lost low end torque for some higher end horsepower. So it isn't just in lower intake. The throttle body goes "inline" with the runners of the upper intake.
To the original poster...a 65mm or 70mm TB will flow PLENTY for your combo and you will be less likely to see the problems that a bigger throttle body like a 75mm can cause (part throttle bucking/loss of torque down low/loss of throttle response).
Michael Yount, Tmoss, MustangDaren all have experience with the velocity theory. They suggest that the 65-70's are a better choice and do the job nicely. Mustangdaren switched back from a 75mm TB to a 70mm TB because he didn't like the loss of response he got with the 75mm TB. Tmoss ports upper/lower intakes and knows what he is talking about. I have had personal experience with the throttle bodies. My friend had a 75mm TB on his car and he experienced those symptoms above. He swapped back to the "smaller" size and waaallllllaaaa...it was gone.
Paul (killercanary) runs 112.51mph with his 65mm FMS TB in a 3600lb sn95 vert with a 302 h/c/i (N/A)...so it isn't slowing him down
N8Miller said:
deadlast: 4.10s a great gear.
For what? The track?
Go with 373's so it will be more daily driver friendly and if you get boost/nitrous later you won't run out of gear at the track and you will have less traction problems. Some that have actually had both gears were slower at the track with 410's over 373's and some also claimed no seat of the pants difference.
I run 2400 rpm at 70mph (I have 373's) so I don't know how the 410's could run lower
Here is how I look at when picking gears for a daily driver...To me the gearing of 410's or steeper on a daily driver is not worth it to me...you get worse gas mileage/more engine wear/and use your shifting components more (clutch/trans/etc)...around town...and I also look at it like this...when your cruising on the highway at 80mph (interstate) your cruising at roughly 3000rpm with 410's...that is HALF your 302's revving capabilities and that is in the overdrived 5th gear at CRUISE...not at WOT...I personally don't like the idea of having half the engines revving capabilities at just cruise. Also...what if an emergency comes up and you got to "get it"...you have to be there for someone or are running to the hospital...and running higher than 80mph...maybe running 4500rpm steadily (faster than 80mph of course)...during that emergency I don't think that would be a good time for your engine to let go on you...what do you think?
Then you have to factor in 410's or steeper cause my engine braking at higher rpms on the highway...go pull out somewhere and hold your car to 2500rpm or so (worse with gears) and feel the engine try to slow you down when you let off the gas...same similar occurance happens on the highway/interstate plus the wind resistance.
I know when I had the slipping clutch problem I could smell the clutch burn at a higher rpm cruise which in my case was comparing 2000rpm to 2500rpm. At the lower rpm I didn’t smell it but the higher rpm I could smell it. Just some things to think about when you think you want every little tenth out of your car (4:10’s)…I prefer a better overall performance personally…
Go 373's...I would rather want more (373's to 410's) than get to much (410's) and want less (373's)...get what I'm saying...
all in good fun.
