H-Pipe Help: Check engine light

Scott_95GT

New Member
Oct 8, 2004
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Sacramento
3 years ago I installed a catted bbk h-pipe on my old 95gt. It ran great, but upon higher rpms (about 3500+) the check engine light would come on and turn off. I thought this was a problem with 4.6's (unless you get mil's), not 5.0's. Anyways, I am ready to buy an h-pipe for the 95gt I currently own, this time w/o cats, but I don't want my cpu triggering my check engine light everytime i step on it. I have heard some people say it's a problem only with late model 95's, which i have. Has this happened to anyone else? Any info would be greatly appriciated.
:flag:
 
you ever get the code checked?? if not, go get it checked then we might be able to figure out whats going on. im thinking its running lean up top and throwing the code
 
HazMat404 said:
you ever get the code checked?? if not, go get it checked then we might be able to figure out whats going on. im thinking its running lean up top and throwing the code

I did get the codes checked when I had that car and none were stored. I do not want the same problem with the 95gt I now own.
 
i did for my offroad x-pipe. I went under there, reseated the O2 sensors, disconnected the battery for 20 mins, then fired her up and let her idle for a solid 10 minutes while the computer relearned everything. Problem gone...
 
ahh...misunderstood your question. i never got any CE lights when i did the o/r hpipe. only things i can think y ou have come up would be lean or rich but you wont really know until you try
 
WhiteStallionGT said:
My friend who is installing the h pipe i'm getting doesn't do sensors... does that mean my check engine light will always be on when he puts it in.
not necessarily. Is the sensor bad? then yes, is it good? then no, unless he screws something up. I think with no cats it MAY dirty them quicker, but it shouldn't be that bad if you're running a clean and tuned setup.
 
I installed the or/h and I have been getting a c.e.l. It is not all the time, it seems to come on after a little while. I have tried un hooking the battry and letting the comp relearn but didnt help. Do you think my o2 sensors are bad?? I sometimes have a problem with acceleration at WOT as well, the car hesitates and jerks...? Could this be the problem?

Edit: forgot to mention, I cleaned my maf already so I know that is not my problem, I have a brand new TFI from msd so thats not it either, new plugs recently as well... any ideas??
 
dont throw money at o2's just yet. first time i switched out to an o/r hpipe (back 3 years ago when completely stock), my maf wires were dirty as can be. i was throwin codes all the time and the car felt horrible at WOT. clean those wires up if you have never done that because they are going to throw a code of lean or rich which many people will say "change o2's first". not sayin it wont be your o2's (semi fragile so be careful with them when out) but clean the maf wires first
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I guess I'll just go for it and hope for the best.

Is the mac prochamber a lot better than the regualar mac h-pipe? I'm sure thier both good pipes, just haven't heard any feedback on it. It's only 135 bucks. I'm buying one this week and i'm gonna mess with it over winter break. I hate college.
 
Which wires do you mean hazmat? I hope thats the prob! It felt a little better after i cleaned the maf but it still hesitates and sputters.... dont know if this is relavent but once in a while the car will start to jump in rpms like from idle to 1500-2000 then back and sometimes it dies...?

Edit: Im a stallion now!! haha
 
My CEL light randomly comes on and I have cats. For my car it's usually a sign of too much fuel pressure. Drop the pressure a bit, as long as you don't hear pinging when you drive it. Then drive it for a while and check your CEL light.

Mine would come on right after a pull up a hill. The car would load up at the top and throw the light for a while, then it would go out.

I have yet to change my O2s as they seem to be working. :shrug: