Haha I've crossed over to the darkside...

I've been in the fox forum for a long time but just got my hands on a 2002 Mustang Gt Steeda Stampede Q400. It came from Flrd with most of the bells and whistles Steeda could throw at it. Including a Vortech supercharger. It was too nice to pass up. There are a bunch of fake Steeda mustangs running around but this is number 2002-067.

Nightfire said:

The doors completely kill it for me

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I wasn't a big fan of them either. They usually end up trashing the door and the fender. These look done right but they make me nervous.

rednotch said:

Between the doors, the 94-04 dash and local emission laws from cars after 95 I just couldn't do it lol, only reason I don't have a coyote swapped new edge.. I'd be tring to hard trade or sell it lol.. Nice find though, looks clean.

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It was bought to sell but the Ol'Lady said no. She likes it and thinks it's a once in a lifetime deal. She's probably right. This car came supercharged from ford and is carb compliant.

More pics. There are some things that are a little under done. Previous owner moved the battery to the trunk but has the cables running through 2 uninsulated holes in the aluminum box. The power wire also passes through a hole near the rear frame rail but it also has no grommet. There's also a small fuel leak at a fitting on the passenger fuel rail. This car was itching to go up in smoke.

The car has been on Jack stands. The PO relocated the battery to the trunk and completely F'd that up. No protection on the battery cable. Engine ground and headlight ground on 7mm bolt on core support. Battery ground in trunk ( 2 gauge ) was grounded to a 14mm bolt in the side of the spare tire well. The paint wasn't even cleaned off. Amplifier grounded with a small self tapper through the negative cable end piece.

On top of this the secondary rear sway bar rubs on the Ford racing rear end cover the PO added.

The BBK valve cover on the drivers side sprung a leak on the 1.5 hour ride home. I knew this would happen. Gaskets were dry rotted and cracking. I guess that boost pull put the final strain on them. The gaskets are unabtanium but I've been through the BBK valve cover saga before. Some good old Honda bond or right stuff will seal them up.

The hydrobooster also started leaking and there's a good amount of fluid down the firewall and on the left side subframe support. It's OK...because it's got to come out in order to pull the drivers side valve cover.

Oh...and the BBK fuel rails the PO installed are also leaking at the end fitting and the adapter fitting for the factory fuel line. Fuel pressure gauge is also not working. It's at between 80 and 100 psi with the fuel rail off. Smh. I though it needed a fuel pressure sensor.

The right front control arm bushings are bad.

The right front wheel bearing has play.

Battery cable is now protected with a breaker and runs through the inside of the car. The engine ground now goes to the front sway bar bracket stud and battery ground ( 1/0 gauge ) goes through a grommet in the spare tire well, behind the fuel tank strap bracket, and bolts to where an IRS would bolt up. The power wire goes through a factory grommet in passenger floor and to starter.

I'm surprised the car didn't have starting issues previously. It does start a little faster now but damn. There was also feedback through the radio. That seems to be fixed also.

I'm glad I got this car when I did. Seems like the PO was making all the typical mistakes. This car would've ended up a crispy black spot beside some local highway.

Sorry for the long picture-less post. If I ever sold this car I didn't want the bad stuff on the internet. I've got a bunch of stuff on its way. I'll document the progress with pics soon.

Rebuilt the hydroboost and sealed up the drivers valve cover. My hands were super dirty so I didn't take a lot of pics.

I got the end that goes on the pedal assembly off by putting a 1/2 extension through the end, a bearing separator where the mounting plate used to be, and two 2 foot pry bars. I placed the assembly and bearing separator under my press beam with the extension bridging the opening up top. I put both pry bars between the bottom of the beam and the bearing separator. I then sat on the pry bars and smacked the assembly with a 2lb hammer.



No matter what people say this part goes in last. It's the rod that pushed the master cylinder. If you remove the retainer it pops right out. It takes the spring pressure off the assembly so it won't push apart when the bolts are removed.



Putting the end piece back on isn't bad at all. A couple whacks with a hammer and it pops back in. You'll then need to use a small chisel to tighten the cup where the indents are. I used a file to clean up the marks left by the vice grips.



This job can be done with the master cylinder still connected to the lines. You need to take the nut off the back of the proportioning valve block. It's located in the strut tower behind the strut. Pry it out of the strut tower and gently pull the master cylinder back.



The BBK valve cover would not clear the hydroboost so removal would've been necessary anyway. While I was there I replaced the mechanical fuel pressure gauge and resealed the plugs and fittings on this side of the fuel rail.

I also changed the radio to a Kenwood touch screen double din and wired up two amps. One for inside and one 1200 watt for the two 12 inch twins. The factory amp is MIA. I'm searching for one local. This car has the Mach sound system. E

Still need to touch up and adjust the drivers fender ( I have touch up paint ). Fix a small crack in the front lip corner. Install the passenger front hub bearing. Replace the rear end cover ( I have the new cover ). Grease the suspension bushings. Pull the passenger fuel rail and seal it up. Replace the passenger valve cover gasket with sealer. Shouldn't be anywhere near as hard as the drivers side.