Ive had this new A-Pillar gauge pod assembly from lmr for 6 months and finally decided to tackle the project last weekend. I also decided to replace all the old factory bulbs in my gauge cluster while i was there. And of course build a new headlight and fog relay wire harness too but I'm leaving that to another post.
I got all my bulbs from superbrightleds.com. I did my research from others experiences and I'm really happy with the results, it's like driving a new car.
Here is the gauge pillar all setup. Boost, oil pressure, water temp guages. Boost and oil i used the plastic line that came with the gauges even though some said to use copper or stainless. Connections in directions are easy enough to follow.
Tip: Make sure everything is tight on gauge first, mock them up, then feed wire through pillar holes first and install on gauge out of pillar before you push them into their homes. And not all the way so you can turn them straight after you put the assembly in car.
Here I show the light connections I used for gauge illumination. Pretty simply. I used one side for ground, the other for power. Those connectors make an easy daisy chain for all 3 bulbs and allow for easy disassembly if I need to replace down the road. I used 16awg wire.
I found a long piece of house electrical wire for my fishING through car. Stiff enough but also ply-able .
I pushed the tubing and water probe only through firewall. All together through throttle pedal boot. I already had wires in there. When I finished I sealed in back up by squeezing some black silicone in the hole. It spread around the wires on its own.
Tip: The plastic line for oil was just barely long enough to run to stock location and have enough slack to keep away from engine heat. I also pre-wrapped all the plastic line with electrical tape for protection.
Went to hardware store and got another T-fitting and a male connector fitting. If I remember right they were all 1/4". Everything else came with gauges. I have a
vortech blower that is oil fed through this fitting and I wanted to keep my stock gauge working. Otherwise a single T-fitting is all you need.
Here is my water probe installed. Everything in package. Ran under upper intake plenum along with wire harness. Installed in stock location. Eventually I may hook stock gauge back up in the rear intake port.
I connected ground to body just inside door jam behind plastic panel. Already had another connection there. I then connected power feed to the stock dimmer switch. It's the lone wire in the connector. If your looking at connector installed in dash it's wire in the far right of connector. Forgot to take a picture. Just used a quick connect type connector.
Ok pillar install done. Time for stock gauge cluster illumination upgrade.
You can do your own research on how to disassemble and visa versa.
Here is my parts list.
They go here.
Red circles get CW5. They shine in all directions and you need it. Yellow circles get W4-90 they are various warnings indicators(brake, seatbelt, check engine). Don't replace the bottom AMP/battery indicator LED doesn't have enough current so it will stay on all the time. Green circles get G4-90 for turn signals, blue circle gets B4-90 for high beam indicator. I would replace the RPM needle with WLED-xHP5-CAR because it's brighter than CW5. 75 lm versus 30 lm. This gauges reflector is a bit duller than the others because of design, bulb is too far away I think. But it's still better!
Here are some various pics.
CW5 cool white gives off a hint of blue and turns the white numbers and marks a hint of green. Old dull dash screen probably.
I wiped the LEDS with a clean rag after pushing them into sockets just in case.
Going 40mph
Going 70mph
Tags: guage, guages, pillar, a pillar, a-pillar, gauge cluster, 1989, mustang, gt, fox mustang gauge cluster, led, illumination upgrade, oil gauge install, water temp gauge install, boost gauge install