Heads/cam project starts Friday!

[CManT1914]

I'm gonna be starting Friday afternoon (right after work) on my heads/cam swap. Any last minute suggestions to make it go smoother? I already have my timing cover gasket kit, head gasket kit, intake gaskets, head bolts, cam lube, break-in lube, thermactor plug (for deleting smog pump, oh shoot, i just remembered I need a short belt ), RTV, some jbweld (for closing the EGR openings on the intake if need be), balancer puller, power steering pulley puller, feeler gauge, fuel line disconnect. Then I have my actual parts, heads, cam (just came in today, it sure is perty! ), lifters, pushrods, rockers, timing chain (coming in thursday), valve covers, afpr, injectors (a buddy is loaning me a mass air adjuster for recalibrating my MAF), headers. I think that's all I'll need. Any suggestions to make things go a little smoother?

 

[95CobraMike]

sealant for the lower head bolts? thats a good idea.

oh and dont hit your harmonic balancer with a hammer to put it back on.... = broken crank

need any help? i have come to learn to enjoy taking the heads off of my car.... (4 times since feb...) i've gotten my tear down time (heads off) down to 2 hours and 10 min (by myself wrenches and ratchets only...no air tools)

 

[95CobraMike]

oh i'd probably check your balancer to see if the rubber is coming out or not while you have it off....if it is i have a FMS 50oz balancer i could sell you

 

[CManT1914]

Thanks Mike. What kind of sealant? I have a tube of Permatex threadlocker, will that work? Or what would you recommend. And from what I can tell with the balancer on the car, it's still good. There's no rubber visibly sticking out of the back. I'll inspect it closer when I pull it off. I have a balancer puller, maybe that will help put it back on too. I'll keep you in mind if I need a new one though. How's your 306 coming along?

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

Dont forget a 12 pack of your favorite tasty beverage!!!!!!

 

[95CobraMike]

i have some sealant here, i'm not sure of the brand, but i know that thread lock and thread sealant are diffrent. thread sealant is white and pasty, its kinda like the thread sealant used on gas line piping i'll check on my brand name.

the 306 is coming good, i have a thread on here about it with pictures if you want to check it out... i took the 302 apart today so i now have 2 shortblocks sitting in my garage....still not sure what happened with the 302 yet, no visible damage to the crank or rods or pistons... hummm

 

[95CobraMike]

it's Permatex High temp Thread Sealant

it worked well for me. i think a tube of it was like $8-10 at NAPA

 

[CManT1914]

Yea I remembered I had seen your thread the other day about it. I searched and found it again, looking like it's coming along pretty good. Hopefully you can track down what the knocking and lack of oil pressure was caused by.

Yea just let me know what kind you're using, if I remember right, I'm not supposed to use any anti-seize or anything on the studs. Just oil them lightly is what I read.

Dont forget a 12 pack of your favorite tasty beverage!!!!!!

I'm doing the work at my dad's shop. I own a soda machine there that holds 192 sodas!! That should be plenty.

 

[CManT1914]

it's Permatex High temp Thread Sealant

it worked well for me. i think a tube of it was like $8-10 at NAPA

I think that was the stuff I was looking for this morning. :damnit: Looks like I bought the wrong crap, lol. Thanks

 

[95CobraMike]

no problem

you got ARP studs? those are nice thats what i had the last time and they held up really well.
yeah you just oil the top ones and put them in finger tight, and then seal the bottom ones and also put them in finger tight....

i found out today why they are only put in finger tight too.... if i would have gone any tighter than finger tight there would be NO WAY to get them out if you ever had to, like i did. i had trouble getting a few of them out with the little alan wrench that comes with them

so yeah make sure you only go finger tight on the studs going into the block

 

[CManT1914]

no problem

you got ARP studs? those are nice thats what i had the last time and they held up really well.
yeah you just oil the top ones and put them in finger tight, and then seal the bottom ones and also put them in finger tight....

i found out today why they are only put in finger tight too.... if i would have gone any tighter than finger tight there would be NO WAY to get them out if you ever had to, like i did. i had trouble getting a few of them out with the little alan wrench that comes with them

so yeah make sure you only go finger tight on the studs going into the block

No, I got the regular ARP head bolt kit (don't think they come with studs, not sure, haven't even opened them ). The studs I was referring to were the rocker arm studs. I have the stud mount setup instead of pedestal mount.

 

[95CobraMike]

oh lol..... oops well in the future if you ever happen to get head studs.... lol sorry

 

[wytstang]

A camera for taking a crap load of pics in case you get lost and a lot of small boxes to hold studs/nuts and what have you. No need to go searching trying to find the right nut/stud when you can have them in little boxes already labled where they came from.

 

[95CobraMike]

i remembered another one.... masking tape and a permanant marker

label all of your electrical connections with some masking tape and your marker,(1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2 ect.) start and 1 and work your way up, i think i got up to 19. when you go to put it back together you just count them backwards

 

[95CobraMike]

oh heck i'll just give you a website

http://users3.ev1.net/~voodoostang/headsswap.htm

it's pretty detailed and it has tons of pictures!

 

[CManT1914]

A camera for taking a crap load of pics in case you get lost and a lot of small boxes to hold studs/nuts and what have you. No need to go searching trying to find the right nut/stud when you can have them in little boxes already labled where they came from.

Got my digital camera and my camcorder ready. I'll find some cups or something to put all my nuts/bolts in.

i remembered another one.... masking tape and a permanant marker

label all of your electrical connections with some masking tape and your marker,(1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2 ect.) start and 1 and work your way up, i think i got up to 19. when you go to put it back together you just count them backwards

I always mark an electrical connection or vacuum line when I disconnect them. I did it with my spark plug wires too when I had to pull the cap off to tighten down the base again. Stinking screws that hold the distributor base down had backed all the way out.

 

[CManT1914]

oh heck i'll just give you a website

http://users3.ev1.net/~voodoostang/headsswap.htm

it's pretty detailed and it has tons of pictures!

:worship: :worship: :worship:

 

[final5-0]

Yea just let me know what kind you're using, if I remember right, I'm not supposed to use any anti-seize or anything on the studs. Just oil them lightly is what I read.

Chris

Anytime you got steel bolts goin into Aluminum threads anti seize will keep that white junk from forming and messing up things. Its a chemical thing don't ya know, lol.

Later
Grady

 

[Rootus]

Anytime you got steel bolts goin into Aluminum threads anti seize will keep that white junk from forming and messing up things. Its a chemical thing don't ya know, lol.

For what it's worth, I do remember AFR saying only motor oil on the threads of the rocker studs.

Not doubting your physics lesson, though .

Dave

 

[final5-0]

For what it's worth, I do remember AFR saying only motor oil on the threads of the rocker studs.

Not doubting your physics lesson, though .

Dave

I saw you say in a post the other day you've not driven your 95 in a long time.

Surely you've not turned your back on "OLE YELLER"

Later
Grady