Heads

[MadHandle8169]

Do you think these would be a good purchase for me. I'm trying to do a build up and these heads look pretty good plus the location is like 20 min from my house so I wouldn't have to pay for shipping.

http://classifieds.stangnet.com/showproduct.php?product=17695&sort=1&cat=3&page=1

Also please nobody take them if I want them.

 

[MadHandle8169]

Also what other supporting parts are necessary with these heads? Basically would I just be able to bolt them up along with my Edelbrock Intake I'm going to install and just run them? Can I do this until I get funds for the TB and MAM?

Also what kind of numbers would I be looking at in the 1/4 and HP and TQ wise with these heads an Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and the mods in my sig. Thanks

 

[JJ95GTID]

You may need longer pushrods. You won't know for sure till you bolt them on. As for if they are a good buy I don't know. If you are going the super charger route then cast iron heads are great. If staying NA then I would wait to get aluminum to save the weight.

 

[94-302-vert]

I would go aluminum either way. To me i would pass.

For $400 I would consider it if I was planning to go the H/C/I route.

Chris

 

[MadHandle8169]

There is no way to tell this before and any incite on HP?

 

[nmcgrawj]

There is no way to tell this before and any incite on HP?

Pro's can say, or maybe even guys who already run it. But it depends on which cam u run and other things inorder to get the geometry setup right. It takes 5 minutes to check once u have the heads on the block to see what push rods you need.

HP? I would just throw a guess out there and say in the 260rwhp range MAYBE? I am clueless on the gt40 combos...but there are guys making nice power and great times with them. Do u plan on running the stock cam?

 

[final5-0]

You may need to have a valve job done on them. If so that would be a bit more money you would have in them.

Somewhere on these sites I've seen the older Aluminum GT40 take off heads for I wanna say something like $699.

I'm with Chris .... Don't sink too much money in em.

Later
Grady

 

[MadHandle8169]

Well for right now I was planning on running the stock cam. Would this be a bad idea, is an aftermarket cam needed. I would have money for heads and probably the Throttle Body and Mass Air. Then after that I was hoping to run it a while like that until I accumulated funds for other stuff. So what other stuff would be needed? If it's a lot I would probably just wait on heads and do gears and some other stuff first. But, I figured since he is so close to me and if it's a good deal I should take it.

 

[MadHandle8169]

Would something like this be worth spending the few extra bucks?
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=518

 

[final5-0]

Would something like this be worth spending the few extra bucks?
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=518

Those are the heads I was telling you about.

They should not need a valve job, lol.

OTOH, you don't get rr's with them. You could reuse your stockers on them.

I believe the performance will be close between those and the iron GT40's.

Later
Grady

 

[MadHandle8169]

And then the Aluminum ones are lighter so overall they are better than the cast iron. Also would I be able to just run around on those heads with an Edelbrock Intake Manifold and the stock TB, MAM, Cam and Injectors or is that a bad idea. If so what kind of HP and TQ am I looking at with the mods in my sig.

Also since I'm on a budget right now it's either Gears or those Aluminum Y303 Heads.

 

[JJ95GTID]

I have those exact heads on my car and just put them on about a month ago. I am running the stock rockers but I think I may need to get I slightly longer set of pushrods. My car is making a ticking noise that I think is noisy valvetrain. I believe the stock ones are 6.272". Summit has 6.300" pushrods by TrickFlow that are $85. So, make this a consideration. Gears are a good mod but won't make your car quicker @ your current list of mods you are planning, just more fun to drive.

EDIT: You'll also want the shim kit to adjust the bolt down(stock) style rockers.$10 from Summit.

 

[MadHandle8169]

So what else besides new gaskets, pushrods, and the shim kits is needed?

 

[JJ95GTID]

A head bolt kit FRPP #M-6065-D289 (ARP with stepped washers). Water/coolant, RTV red (just a little), anti-seize (for all bolts that go into the aluminum including the spark plugs). New spark plugs (Autolite 3924). I went with a complete engine gasket set FRPP #M-6003-A50. The shim kit for the rockers FRPP #M-6529-A302.

 

[JJ95GTID]

<----Check out my Garage<----

For some pics.

 

[MadHandle8169]

But other than that you have the stock MAM, TB, Cam and Injectors and you don't have any problems?

 

[MadHandle8169]

I just checked out the pics. The car is looking good. My favorite is of the garage with all the parts though.

 

[JJ95GTID]

Yes, except for what is listed in my sig everything else is stock. My theory on the ticking noise from the valvetrain is this: the stock E7s are 58cc and the Y303s are 64cc. This leads me to believe that the pedestals that the rockers bolt down to are slightly higher than stock. This is probalbly why the stock pushrods are now too short. I have no problems at all. Idle is great. I did feel a little less pull down in the lower rpm range put I got more pull up top. Even with 2.73s in the rear I had no problems burning the tires through third gear so I don't think it'll hurt your performance much. I have 3.73s so I have no issues here.

 

[MadHandle8169]

Damn! I was contemplating just getting gears and installing the intake and be done with the car for a while. But, now since I'm going to be in the motor already I can just install the heads and the intake and make a lot more power. If I do this approach I can just get better supporting parts and build the car up right because it is easier to gather like 200 bucks for the Throttle Body or MAM later down the line. Decisions, Decisions, Decisions!

 

[JJ95GTID]

Well, the camshaft is just a few more bolts away. Might as well save a couple $$$ for it as well

I kinda doing an experiment. Most people start out with the intake and then do heads and cam later. Well, I got these heads for a good deal so I bolted them on first. Then, I will do a cam followed by the intake most likely. Don't know for sure. A lot depends on expendable cash at the right time. I also need a mid pipe (H or X). I think I will go with the UPR catted X. I also wanted to run the new BBK SSI intake but it won't clear the stock hood