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heater/AC box maintenance

  • Thread starter Thread starter limp
  • Start date Start date Jul 3, 2022
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#1
  • Jul 3, 2022
  • #1
So my heater/AC box is out.... going to replace/have the heater core and the ac core checked out....

What about replacing the 38 year old vacuum lines and the soft rubber connectors?? I am sure all of you agree that I don't want to do this job again..

If any of the actuators are bad, is there a source?? Its an 83 with factory air........

As always, thanks
 

manicmechanic007

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#2
  • Jul 3, 2022
  • #2
Your vacuum lines are most likely still good
Maybe try to buy a OEM replacement mode switch for later when yours is NFG
The vacuum motors leak if you go to test them
I would clean out the case with wet paper towels and consider wiping it down with the Ford disodorizer stuff
Your evaporator should be okay too
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#3
  • Jul 3, 2022
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There were kits to replace the foam and seals for the blend doors when I did my 89, Maybe the 83 box is close or possibly the same. IIRC the foam was kinda cheezy, you could possibly buy better stuff at lowesdepo. The heater/ac cores have a pliable seal on the ends that are similar to the stuff used to wrap the ac tubes that came out of the old brand x ac box that was mounted on the firewall. At least mine did.
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#4
  • Jul 3, 2022
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General karthief said:
There were kits to replace the foam and seals for the blend doors when I did my 89, Maybe the 83 box is close or possibly the same. IIRC the foam was kinda cheezy, you could possibly buy better stuff at lowesdepo. The heater/ac cores have a pliable seal on the ends that are similar to the stuff used to wrap the ac tubes that came out of the old brand x ac box that was mounted on the firewall. At least mine did.
Click to expand...
I havent' split the box yet, but the foam I see so far is not bad... usually the stuff just falls apart...
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#5
  • Jul 3, 2022
  • #5
manicmechanic007 said:
Maybe try to buy a OEM replacement mode switch for later when yours is NFG
Click to expand...
Your talking about the operating switch on the dash? I bet that is unobtainable.......
 

manicmechanic007

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#6
  • Jul 4, 2022
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The vacuum mode switch is the piece you will have a real hard time finding in 20 years
I sell on ebay and have one for an Aerostar listed
I find new old stock parts on there once in a while
Pretty sure Ford is obsolete and obsolete parts would want a fortune
 
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Willybill32

But at least it's tight!
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#7
  • Jul 9, 2022
  • #7
limp said:
So my heater/AC box is out.... going to replace/have the heater core and the ac core checked out....

What about replacing the 38 year old vacuum lines and the soft rubber connectors?? I am sure all of you agree that I don't want to do this job again..

If any of the actuators are bad, is there a source?? Its an 83 with factory air........

As always, thanks
Click to expand...
FWIW, I had the dash and heater/AC box out of my '86 and didn't want to do that job again. I replaced both the heater core (leaking) and the A/C evaporator coil. While I was at it, I elected to replace the fan, and that was a mistake. The new blower fan motor is really crappy and I wish I'd kept the original in there.

Bill
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#8
  • Jul 10, 2022
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Willybill32 said:
FWIW, I had the dash and heater/AC box out of my '86 and didn't want to do that job again. I replaced both the heater core (leaking) and the A/C evaporator coil. While I was at it, I elected to replace the fan, and that was a mistake. The new blower fan motor is really crappy and I wish I'd kept the original in there.

Bill
Click to expand...
My blower fan motor is rusty, so I have no option except replacement..... Most of the screws and u nuts are rusty... Pretty hard to find matching ones... I did find the exact screws but I had to buy 3000 of them at $237... Thought about it for a while, but ended up using slotted head indented hex nut screws.....
Looks like the heater core is a brass one, so am I correct that I should have it recored if its bad??
Waiting on the LMR rebuild kit at this moment...... Only get a few hours a day here in SUNNY Florida.... Way to hot out for man or hound....
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#9
  • Jul 10, 2022
  • #9
Try to get the original fixed if needed.
And holler at me if you need a few j nuts like that, dude I gots stuff and I'm right down the street, I'd show up for coffee more often (maybe you can buy once in a while.)
 
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mrobins26

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#10
  • Jul 10, 2022
  • #10
I just got done with my '89. I bought the foam gasket kit from LMR, but this was only for the blower motor box. I had to make my own gaskets for the box itself. This might be a bit controversial, but for the blend door seal in the box I used headliner material with the foam backing. The material provides a very nice surface for spray glue, and I liked the higher density foam backing better than the stuff provided for the blower motor blend door. The evaporator core did not come with any foam gasket material. I bought PN 8694K89 from Mcmaster-Carr "Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Strip with Adhesive Back, 2" Wide, 1/2" Thick, 25 Feet Long," The only way to get the box blend door out on the 89 is to cut out the evaporator core along the guide lines provided on sealed box. After replacing it and the evap, I welded the box seal with a Polyvance plastic welder with an HDPE stick.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#11
  • Jul 10, 2022
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General karthief said:
Try to get the original fixed if needed.
And holler at me if you need a few j nuts like that, dude I gots stuff and I'm right down the street, I'd show up for coffee more often (maybe you can buy once in a while.)
Click to expand...
Thanks General... I am trying to use new, but it is difficult....
Buy? I am a poor man who lives on Social Security.........
Coffee day has been changed to Friday until school starts, due to Genes granddaughters and Tennis......Mark your calendar.... LOL
 
Last edited: Jul 10, 2022

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#12
  • Jul 10, 2022
  • #12
mrobins26 said:
I just got done with my '89. I bought the foam gasket kit from LMR, but this was only for the blower motor box. I had to make my own gaskets for the box itself. This might be a bit controversial, but for the blend door seal in the box I used headliner material with the foam backing. The material provides a very nice surface for spray glue, and I liked the higher density foam backing better than the stuff provided for the blower motor blend door. The evaporator core did not come with any foam gasket material. I bought PN 8694K89 from Mcmaster-Carr "Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Strip with Adhesive Back, 2" Wide, 1/2" Thick, 25 Feet Long," The only way to get the box blend door out on the 89 is to cut out the evaporator core along the guide lines provided on sealed box. After replacing it and the evap, I welded the box seal with a Polyvance plastic welder with an HDPE stick.
Click to expand...
I have rebuilt a few boxes in my past ( not mustang) and I found the thin foam somewhere... I did find some online, but it seems as if Bidenomics had infected their foam prices......
I did get lucky though.. I had read where the earlier HVAC boxes came apart easier... MIne used all screws and clips and even had its own panel that came off for the Heater core...
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
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Jul 10, 2022
#13
  • Jul 10, 2022
  • #13
limp said:
I have rebuilt a few boxes in my past ( not mustang) and I found the thin foam somewhere... I did find some online, but it seems as if Bidenomics had infected their foam prices......
I did get lucky though.. I had read where the earlier HVAC boxes came apart easier... MIne used all screws and clips and even had its own panel that came off for the Heater core...
Click to expand...
Yes, earlier ones come apart with screws and clips. Around 88, ford decided to glue the two halves together, and mold into the top case where to cut it out. But the heater core right next to it has the lid held on with screws. And of course the nasty Butyl strips. It's so hot right now in Texas i had to put the new Butyl strips in the fridge just so I could peel it off the backing.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#14
  • Jul 10, 2022
  • #14
limp said:
Thanks General... I am trying to use new, but it is difficult....
Buy? I am a poor man who lives on Social Security.........
Coffee day has been changed to Friday until school starts, due to Genes granddaughters and Tennis......Mark your calendar.... LOL
Click to expand...
so the morning coffee world revolves around Gene's grandkids?
that's ok, I'm adaptable
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#15
  • Jul 10, 2022
  • #15
Lots of fun.... Cleaning and painting the metal items as I go.....

General karthief said:
so the morning coffee world revolves around Gene's grandkids?
that's ok, I'm adaptable
Click to expand...
He is summer transportation for them.....
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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Jul 14, 2022
#16
  • Jul 14, 2022
  • #16
So I was thinking about drilling out these rivets to clean the rust and paint this piece in my heater box ( there are a few like this) and then pop rivet them back on..
Am I opening up a can of worms here maybe?? Should I just clean em up the best I can and touch em up with some paint??
My concerns are cracking the plastic while pop riveting them back on??
Any recommendations or experience here??
thanks all
 

manicmechanic007

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#17
  • Jul 14, 2022
  • #17
What that plate holds is one of the door pivots (blend door, recirc or?)
Or a lever pivot
I would leave it alone
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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#18
  • Jul 14, 2022
  • #18
I’m the guy that polished his bolts….


But even I left that stuff alone.
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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Jul 15, 2022
#19
  • Jul 15, 2022
  • #19
manicmechanic007 said:
What that plate holds is one of the door pivots (blend door, recirc or?)
Or a lever pivot
I would leave it alone
Click to expand...
That particular one bolts to one of the two hold down straps to the car.....
But the other one or two are about a pivot point.....
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
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Jul 15, 2022
#20
  • Jul 15, 2022
  • #20
Mustang5L5 said:
I’m the guy that polished his bolts….


But even I left that stuff alone.
Click to expand...
LOL, I can relate..... Why I was asking... If you left yours alone, by all means I will too.......
Maybe a light scuff with the MULTIPLE small wire brushes I have and some paint without removing them,,,,,
I hate rust........
 
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