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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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heater core help

  • Thread starter Thread starter pomag50
  • Start date Start date Sep 3, 2008

pomag50

New Member
Jul 10, 2007
32
0
0
San Diego
Sep 3, 2008
#1
  • Sep 3, 2008
  • #1
Hello all. I have been away for a while. I spent Monday night completely retuning the stang. I timed it by hand, not an easy feat but I have learned well from my father over the years watching him tune his Shelby's. I checked it last night with a light and I was off by less than a degree. I was on my way to work this AM and my heater core (i think that is it anyway) decided to bomb out on me. I ended up with water that was freakin WAY HOT all over my feet. I was wondering two things. Can I bypass the heater core? I realize that I would have no heater but thats ok with me, as long as the car will still be fine. Second question, with the hood open, along the passenger side firewall down by where the O2 return to the smog pump, there is a hose sticking out of the firewall, it is pouring out coolant. I can't find it anywhere in the chiltons. Please let me know where that is supposed to go I am going to bust this out tonight and tomorrow because I want my car back.
:SNSign:
 

pomag50

New Member
Jul 10, 2007
32
0
0
San Diego
Sep 3, 2008
#2
  • Sep 3, 2008
  • #2
If there is anyone out there who could even point me to some threads. I have been looking and have not been able to find anything for the second question, that would be very helpful.
 

94GTCoupe

10 Year Member
May 7, 2006
1,412
92
79
CA
Sep 3, 2008
#3
  • Sep 3, 2008
  • #3
to bypass heater core.

1.on cold engine,open radiator petcock on lower passanger side of radiator.drain coolant.close petcock.
2.disconnect two rubber hoses on passanger side firewall in engine compartment.(red arrows).these lead to the heater core.



3.find small peice of pipe,connect the two rubber hoses to either end.this will bypass the core.
4.refill the cooling system.(be sure the radiator petcock is closed).

as for the small hose pouring out coolant,i belive that is a vent tube for condensation to escape.should pose no problem.i think once all the coolant has drained out of the core,it should be o.k.

if i'm wrong about this,somebody please correct me
 

pomag50

New Member
Jul 10, 2007
32
0
0
San Diego
Sep 4, 2008
#4
  • Sep 4, 2008
  • #4
Thank you for the tip. I as soon as i get off work today I am going to try that fix. I am hoping that that will be a good work around until this weekend when I can replace the core.
 

desertcox05

New Member
Oct 3, 2007
379
0
0
south atlanta
Sep 5, 2008
#5
  • Sep 5, 2008
  • #5
you should have to drain the rad. the coolant hoses are above the rad so you shouldn't lose to much fluid when the hoses are removed. p.s. make sure the car is cold.( just had to add that in. LOL)
 

pomag50

New Member
Jul 10, 2007
32
0
0
San Diego
Sep 5, 2008
#6
  • Sep 5, 2008
  • #6
last night I installed the fix. Instead of connecting the two rubber hoses together I took both hoses off of the hard lines they were connected to and since they were over and under each other I cut one of the hoses I took off and made a U hooked them both together and that should take care of it until I can get a new Heater Core put in.

I also have another question. I installed a stereo last week and it shorted out my instrument cluster. Everytime I turn the car on know it beeps at me for about 30 seconds. The beep is coming from somewhere near where the stereo is in the dash. I can't find anything in any manual that says anything about somehting that beep if you get a short. Has anyone ever experienced this before and if so does the beep tell me what direction I want to go to try and diagnose the short?
 
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