heater core

Beasty306GT · May 31, 2010

So when i had the car on the dyno my heater core decided to spring a leak...So now i need to replace it..i know mosty everyone pulls the whole dash...but i was looking at the haynes manual...it says the whole heater case can be removed without taking the dash out...has anyone done it this way...just wondering if its possible...i really dont want to pull the dash

281pony · May 31, 2010

you dont need to physically remove the entire dash. all i did was remove around 12 screws (complete guess, not the 100 screws that hold the entire dash) and pulled it forward. i didnt even touch the steering column. it does not take as long as everyone makes it out to be.

my first core took like 4 hours with someone helping me. the second time i did it in under 2 hours by myself. there is a method also where people cut a hole and patch it back up to avoid removing anything.

if you do some searches, there is some good write ups.

SickSix said:
So when i had the car on the dyno my heater core decided to spring a leak...So now i need to replace it..i know mosty everyone pulls the whole dash...but i was looking at the haynes manual...it says the whole heater case can be removed without taking the dash out...has anyone done it this way...just wondering if its possible...i really dont want to pull the dash

Beasty306GT · May 31, 2010

281pony said:
you dont need to physically remove the entire dash. all i did was remove around 12 screws (complete guess, not the 100 screws that hold the entire dash) and pulled it forward. i didnt even touch the steering column. it does not take as long as everyone makes it out to be.

my first core took like 4 hours with someone helping me. the second time i did it in under 2 hours by myself. there is a method also where people cut a hole and patch it back up to avoid removing anything.

if you do some searches, there is some good write ups.

did you take out the cluster?

281pony · May 31, 2010

SickSix said:
did you take out the cluster?

yep. its just 2 electrical plugs and the speedo cable. not a tough task at all. then i believe its just the main bolts that run along the windshield, center console and a few other randomly placed bolts.

you can pull the dash outwards and let it rest there. then the top of the box has the 4 bolts to remove the heater core. i personally wouldn't risk the cutting method due to leak possibility.

5.0Droptop · May 31, 2010

I have loosened the dash enough to lift it up and pry it out with a 2x4 and then got in there and removed the heater box enough to swap the core out with out actually removing the heater box completely. I didnt mess with cluster or anything.

aar0s · May 31, 2010

damn, maybe i can get one of you guys to help me with mine! i havent had heat in my vert for over 10 years! its not my DD so it dont leave the garage if its less than 50 and there is salt/cinder on the roads.

Beasty306GT · Jun 1, 2010

ill probably just try to pull the dash..that way i can get in the box and clean it and make sure the new one goes in with no problems...i ordered an aluminum replacemenet from latemodel reso...well see how it goes just not looking forward to it...how many hrs should i expect it to take start to finish

RatStang · Jun 1, 2010

Removing the dash is not a bad option if this is your first. You get to see how everything is arranged back there. I took that opportunity to run a few more dash grounds while I was back there (read: no more radio whine). I also (since everything was apart, free, and clear), used that opportunity to permanently and carefully modify the heater box. I now have an easy access panel complete with latches that will allow me quick access to the heater core for the NEXT time I have to do this job. Should be about a 15 min swap.

RatStang · Jun 1, 2010

Oh... and please, for all that is holy. Purchase your replacement core from FORD! No place else... just Ford. Though I understand there are vendors out there that sell the same piece as Ford, it's hit or miss. Save yourself the trouble of finding out after the fact.

5.0Droptop · Jun 1, 2010

I bought my last one at NAPA and it worked great.

DO NOT USE ONE FROM AUTOZONE OR OTHER PARTS STORE LIKE THEM!!

Beasty306GT · Jun 1, 2010

i bought the new one from Latemodel Restoration...its aluminum not copper.....im gonna start to take the dash apart this week sometime..http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-18476A/79-93-Mustang-Heater-Core-With-A-C

5.0Droptop · Jun 1, 2010

Just take good note of where everything is located. Take pics if you have too. Its not a hard job just time consuming. I think I spent 5-6 hrs taking it fully apart and reassembling the first time I did it.

Beasty306GT · Jun 1, 2010

5.0Droptop said:
Just take good note of where everything is located. Take pics if you have too. Its not a hard job just time consuming. I think I spent 5-6 hrs taking it fully apart and reassembling the first time I did it.

yeah i usually pay attention when it comes to stuff like this...im in no rush i have a dd so the mustang gets driven very rarely....considerings its a new motor i want to fix this core and have some fun with it only drive it 1 time since the dyno

5.0Droptop · Jun 1, 2010

You can by-pass the heater core if you want. So you can drive it for a while.

RatStang · Jun 1, 2010

SickSix said:
i bought the new one from Latemodel Restoration...its aluminum not copper.....im gonna start to take the dash apart this week sometime..79-93 Mustang Heater Core For Mustang With Factory Air Conditioning (A/C) at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

I wish you the best of luck but don't say you weren't warned. hehe

Consider that the OEM piece has lasted well over 20 years.

Beasty306GT · Jun 1, 2010

DontGivaRatz said:
I wish you the best of luck but don't say you weren't warned. hehe

Consider that the OEM piece has lasted well over 20 years.

true but aluminum will last longer than copper

Chrome_Rust · Jun 2, 2010

On a simular note, how in the hell do you change the A/C Evap? As the Sig states, I have a SN95 dash in my car, I have a 98 HVAC box from a 98 GT. I need to swap in the evap from a fox to use my factory A/C lines, but I have no idea how the box comes apart to do it. Any advice. I have to pull my dash again to do this, but that isn't a big deal anymore....

Beasty306GT · Jun 3, 2010

UPDATE

Well i got the old sob out what a pain in the a$$...got to wait till tomorow to put it back together..when the new core will be here....shouldnt be bad putting it back together...took about 3 hrs to get the old one out

good luck to anyone who tries its a royal PITA

5.0Droptop · Jun 3, 2010

Yeah.. Thats why you want to make sure you use a good quality core... dont wanna have to do it again for a long time.

Beasty306GT · Jun 3, 2010

ya i hear ya..gonna give the aluminum one a shot..the aluminum radiator i got is good quality...so i figured screw it...if all else fails and i got to replace it again i hope to hell i dont..ill go with the ford oem its over 100bucks..i also relized i dont have a flow restricter in the supple house...where can i get one of those..that will cut down on the pressure going to the core like oem

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