I installed a new 308 longblock with Twisted wedge heads, TF Stage 1 cam, etc. etc. I also have BBK long tube headers. The problem I am having is when I start the car, within a min or so, the header tube coming off my #4 cylinder becomes extremely hot (to the point that it was turning red) before the motor even starts to register temperature. I have been told it could be a vacuum leak and its leaning out that one cylinder so I removed/replaced the lower and upper intake gaskets, moved injectors around, adjusted fuel press, timing, and still have the problem. I also have a 1/2" phenolic spacer on my upper intake. The upper and lower are a TF track heat setup with BBK 75mm TB and MAF with 24# injectors. Ive only put about 3 mi. on the motor and roughly 2 hours worth of run time. I've even had the headers ceramic coated to help with some of the heating problem. But its still getting so hot that the spark plug wires and air intake hose are VERY hot to the touch. The driver side of the car is fine, (normal temp). I am unable to think of anything else it could possibly be and need some advice. The longblock was assembled by Faster 5.0 out of South Carolina, so the heads were already assembled prior to shipping it to me. Can anyone think of something else I can check or am I doomed to sending it to a repair shop and paying labor charges? 
HELP!! Installed new motor and have problem...
- Thread starter DABEAN212
- Start date
Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
bullitstang1313
Member
Did you have someone put the ceramic coating on the headers or did you buy them coated? Sometimes the ceramic coating can cause the surface temperature to get much hotter than usually because it makes the surface less emissive. That is it doesn't radiate as much heat. If the inside of the header is not coated this can cause an extreme build-up of heat on the inside of the header causing the metal to get too hot. Your problem is somewhat odd because its only being seen on one exhaust port.
DABEAN212 said:I installed a new 308 longblock with Twisted wedge heads, TF Stage 1 cam, etc. etc. I also have BBK long tube headers. The problem I am having is when I start the car, within a min or so, the header tube coming off my #4 cylinder becomes extremely hot (to the point that it was turning red) before the motor even starts to register temperature. I have been told it could be a vacuum leak and its leaning out that one cylinder so I removed/replaced the lower and upper intake gaskets, moved injectors around, adjusted fuel press, timing, and still have the problem. I also have a 1/2" phenolic spacer on my upper intake. The upper and lower are a TF track heat setup with BBK 75mm TB and MAF with 24# injectors. Ive only put about 3 mi. on the motor and roughly 2 hours worth of run time. I've even had the headers ceramic coated to help with some of the heating problem. But its still getting so hot that the spark plug wires and air intake hose are VERY hot to the touch. The driver side of the car is fine, (normal temp). I am unable to think of anything else it could possibly be and need some advice. The longblock was assembled by Faster 5.0 out of South Carolina, so the heads were already assembled prior to shipping it to me. Can anyone think of something else I can check or am I doomed to sending it to a repair shop and paying labor charges?
hey you got faster 5.0s number, and or address????
wildstang87 said:
Yes, do you want them? You can also see there website and all the information about the motor I bought at http://tonisenterprises.com/tonisenterprises.com/faster.html
I have someone contacting me tomorrow about this as well.
Thanks for the info regarding a cylinder balance test jrichker. I will be purchasing one of the scanners, I dont want to have to try and count pulses/flashes. I have also seen someone on here has recieved a few error codes and I know I will get some when I do check it becuase I no longer have the air injection system. Is there a way I can clear the memory so I wont continue to recieve those codes when I try it in the future? Also, kinda off subject, but do you know of a good place to get a affordable custom chip? Or Would you even recommend one? Thanks, Chad
dstanggt50
Founding Member
What did you adjust your f/p and timing to?? You said it got better after you played w/those a little, but I think the cylinder balance test is a good idea. Although you said you moved the injectors around, and if that balance test throws a code on that cylinder, 
, you could always trying to move injectors again,
, you could always trying to move injectors again,dstanggt50 said:What did you adjust your f/p and timing to?? You said it got better after you played w/those a little, but I think the cylinder balance test is a good idea. Although you said you moved the injectors around, and if that balance test throws a code on that cylinder,
My fuel press. is set to roughly 38 psi (vaccuum on) and my base timing is 12 degrees. At 2500 rpm, Im running about 42 psi fuel pressure. If I hold it steady at about 2500 rpm though, It feels like the timing still may be a little off cause it has a slight lope intermittently. But this is also my first motor with a slightly larger cam (TF Stage 1) so im not sure if thats normal. I also do have the common idle surge now and then but have the means to work that out. (Adjust TPS, Adjustment plate for IAC, etc. etc.) This problem just baffles me and the people who built the motor. It frustrates me like you wouldn't believe that I can't (and have'nt) got to drive my stang in 4 months!
Thanks again for any advice....Similar threads
