Help me choose and find a clutch for my tko

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 18, 2004

#21

• Aug 18, 2004

• #21

It was a quick call. He recommended the king cobra. Now that I realize it, the one I listed is a 'super heavy duty' clutch. Its the only one on their site listed as 26 spline and 10.5", so I assumed that was the one he meant. I'll call again and ask more questions this week.

How hard is the pilot bearing to change and can I rent the tool at autozone? I was considering arp flywheel bolts. Do I use lock tite in the flywheel bolts?

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 18, 2004

#22

• Aug 18, 2004

• #22

I found my answer, autozone rents the pilot bearing puller tool. Now, how does the new one go in? Does anything need to be greased up? If so, what and what kinda grease and how much?

 

V

v8only

Active Member

Jul 3, 2003

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Aug 18, 2004

#23

• Aug 18, 2004

• #23

yes, the flywheel holes are NOT blind holes, if you don't locktite, or thread seal them, they can leak oil onto the clutch.

That's good info about the super king cobra, i like that idea.

The puller sucks, in my opinions. what works best is to take a very soft clay, or wet paper towels, and shove them through the pilot bearing hole into the end of the crank. (it's a dead end) next take something to seal up the inside of the socket. take a perfect sized socket and stick it through the pilot bearing hole, and an extension on the end of the socket, and use pressure to pop the pilot bearing out. I suggest a soft moldable clay, because it doesn't squeeze out of the cracks as easy. Just hammer on the end of the socket or extension until the old pilot bearing pops out.

You can white lithium grease the new one to get it in. I use the old pilot bearing, place it over the top of the new one, and use a very small section of 2x4 wood over it to hammer it evenly and easily into the hole.

good luck with the rear main. don't use a screwdriver if you can help it to pull the old seal out. If you groove the crank, even slightly, it'll leak. In that case, you have to sleave it. you can drill two holes into the old rear main, thread two screws into the holes, and pull the old rear main out. To keep the drill from sliding on the old rear main, use a punch to punch a good starting dent in the rear main for the drill.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 18, 2004

#24

• Aug 18, 2004

• #24

Flywheel bolts to the end of the crank, right? I guess i'll use blue locktite. I cant picture what you mean about your way of removing the pilot bearing.

I guess i'll order everything I need from d&d. They have a HD pilot bearing for $10. I'll see what they say about a new fork. I can reuse stock dowel pins, right?

The tremec bell comes with 4 bolts for trans to bell. What about bell to block?

 

TIMMY2734

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May 17, 2002

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Aug 18, 2004

#25

• Aug 18, 2004

• #25

Use some red loctite.
Im using the extended fork, but ive got a scattershield. Lines up much better then teh stocker. Use your stock bell/motor bolts. If you get a scattershield, theyll provide all of the bolts.

His way is very common. its basically just hydraulics.

 

V

v8only

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Jul 3, 2003

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Aug 19, 2004

#26

• Aug 19, 2004

• #26

you seem extremely competant from the way you talk, I don't doubt the second you crawl under and look at that pilot bearing you'll understand. Regardless, rent the puller. IF it doesn't work, you'll be cussing up a storm like I did. I broke the puller, then had to call my pops to bail me out, who used the hydraulics method before I had even heard of it. Works like a charm. Problem is that inner race on the pilot bearing will come out, leaving the outer race still stuck in the crank, refusing to come out, then I broke the third arm on the puller trying to get that outer race out. No dice, so he shoved some soft clay into the hole in the end of the crank behind the pilot bearing, and stuck the socket through the hole in the center of the pilot bearing, hammered it, and the socket pushing in towards the crank pushed the clay outwards taking the pilot bearing out too. Best of luck!!! if you use an aftermarket shifter with that tko, pull the stops all the way out. All tremecs have internal stops, and using an aftermarket shifter on a tremec chances hurting the tremec if the stops are adjusted wrong.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 19, 2004

#27

• Aug 19, 2004

• #27

Awesome information guys, thanks a bunch! I'm sure i'll have more questions soon enough

The tremec bell comes with bolts according to d&d's site for $169. The tko I bought is comming with a pro 50 shifter.

Timmy, I got a crazy idea, why don't you come over when I do this

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 19, 2004

#28

• Aug 19, 2004

• #28

Mike do not even waste time getting a stock bell, by a blow proof from Mcleod or Lakewood and protect your feet.

I've seen a clutch explode and destroy a bell, not a nice sight. I've seen pics where a flyweel went through a floor, the dash and the cowl panel as well!

 

TIMMY2734

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May 17, 2002

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Aug 19, 2004

#29

• Aug 19, 2004

• #29

If i can, id be more than happy to give you a hand.
But ive got to drop my tranny/scattershied next week/end

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 19, 2004

#30

• Aug 19, 2004

• #30

Rick- I really didnt wanna deal with indexing the bellhousing. If I did get a blow proof, i'd use the mcleod. Is it a must to index this bell? What about longtube header clearence?

 

TIMMY2734

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May 17, 2002

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Aug 19, 2004

#31

• Aug 19, 2004

• #31

My bbk's cleared like a dream around the Mcleod. I only had to bang the #4 tube to clear the firewall. I was actually quite impressed for what they are.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 19, 2004

#32

• Aug 19, 2004

• #32

Alright, I just called d&d again. That clutch I listed is not a king cobra, its a mcleod. I asked about indexing a blow proof bell and he said its not needed, just bolt on and go. I didnt ask what brand they sell. Its $299.

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 19, 2004

#33

• Aug 19, 2004

• #33

Grn92LX said:

Alright, I just called d&d again. That clutch I listed is not a king cobra, its a mcleod. I asked about indexing a blow proof bell and he said its not needed, just bolt on and go. I didnt ask what brand they sell. Its $299.

Click to expand...

I check them all but have never had to use offset pins with a Lakewood...

Indexing is better then losing toes!

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 20, 2004

#34

• Aug 20, 2004

• #34

I believe the one they sell is a mcleod blow proof. He said no need for indexing.

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 20, 2004

#35

• Aug 20, 2004

• #35

Cool, is the Mcleod SFI approved yet?

 

TIMMY2734

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May 17, 2002

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Aug 20, 2004

#36

• Aug 20, 2004

• #36

Got an SFI sticker on mine

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

9,692

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Aug 20, 2004

#37

• Aug 20, 2004

• #37

TIMMY2734 said:

Got an SFI sticker on mine

Click to expand...

Thanks, I know awhile back they were waiting for approval