Help me choose which one.

00BlackBeautyGT

00BlackBeautyGT

Member
Oct 4, 2003
298
0
16
E.S. Long Beach, CA
#1
I'm buying a plenum & throttle body next week. I'm stuck between the Accufab and C&L. The Accufab does look alot nicer than the C&L. But I'm not spending the money for looks. Which performs better is my concern. Also what size throttle body for a N/A car. Is 75mm too much? I would like to go with the 75mm but afraid if it'll harm my engine. Or is all of this a waste of money if I'm not supercharged. I really don't know if I supercharging my engine or not but if I do it won't be for a couple years.
 
#2
There is a great article on modulardepot.com that compares the various tbs and plenums. Accufab offers the best quality and performance. The 70 mm combination gained 7.94 rwhp, while the 75 mm combination gained 6.31 rwhp. Keep in mind, however, that this was on a stock motor. Since I plan to add other mods (e.g., headers and x-pipe), I went with the 75 mm combination. My car runs great and I definately noticed an improvement in throttle response.
 
#9
1 - Acufab with 70 mm OR
2 - C&L with 75 mm

Don't waste your money on the C&L MAF. It leans the car about 30%! You MUST have a dyno tune with this thing. If you want mine (I pulled it off), I would be happy to sell it to you CHEAP. But you must promise to get a dyno tune.
 
#11
I'm leaning more towards the 75mm & C&L plenum. I hear that combo is great and I hear about it all the time here on Stangnet.

Will upgrading the TB & plenum affect idle quality? Right now my engine idles perfect. After the install, will I have to mess with any idle adjustments. I do know for sure that you have to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and let it sit overnight to clear the memory and let it learn itself when you connect it back up. Correct if I'm wrong.
 
#12
00BlackBeautyGT said:
I'm leaning more towards the 75mm & C&L plenum. I hear that combo is great and I hear about it all the time here on Stangnet.

Will upgrading the TB & plenum affect idle quality? Right now my engine idles perfect. After the install, will I have to mess with any idle adjustments. I do know for sure that you have to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and let it sit overnight to clear the memory and let it learn itself when you connect it back up. Correct if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

you won't have to disconnect battery overnight and all.. just disconnect batter. remove stock and install new parts. make sure when you remove the tps, you slide it right off and slide it right back on the new accufab TB. the idle quality will be the same. Good thing is you won't have any gruff, crackle, pop in the exhaust after a high rev. :D
 
#13
Man, this is a can of worms question. Every time you change something on the intake side, you can affect how the car idles. I did this mod, and had no idle issues until I added the C&L MAF. Then, things went to ****. It's now removed.

I know when I bought my BBK TB, they tell you that it is factory set and you should not touch the idle screw. I always thought that was crazy. How in God's name can they set my idle from 3,000 miles away?

Bottom line, you may need to adjust your idle. The car should idle around 600 - 700 rpms. And if you have a current problem with your IAC but don't know it, the plenum and new TB may bring it out. I think cleaning the IAC when doing this change is a good idea as you will have it out anyway.

Slap the new parts on, reset the computer, and see what happens. If your idle bogs too much, or is "hunting" (up and down a lot), you will need to reset your base idle.

To do this, remove the wire harness on the IAC. Then, start the car. The car should just barely idle with the harness removed. It is dies, then the base idle is too low. Adjust the screw and restart etc..

Make sure to connect all your hoses properly too.

Good luck!
 
#14
Go HoTO! said:
Man, this is a can of worms question. Every time you change something on the intake side, you can affect how the car idles. I did this mod, and had no idle issues until I added the C&L MAF. Then, things went to ****. It's now removed.

I know when I bought my BBK TB, they tell you that it is factory set and you should not touch the idle screw. I always thought that was crazy. How in God's name can they set my idle from 3,000 miles away?

Bottom line, you may need to adjust your idle. The car should idle around 600 - 700 rpms. And if you have a current problem with your IAC but don't know it, the plenum and new TB may bring it out. I think cleaning the IAC when doing this change is a good idea as you will have it out anyway.

Slap the new parts on, reset the computer, and see what happens. If your idle bogs too much, or is "hunting" (up and down a lot), you will need to reset your base idle.

To do this, remove the wire harness on the IAC. Then, start the car. The car should just barely idle with the harness removed. It is dies, then the base idle is too low. Adjust the screw and restart etc..

Make sure to connect all your hoses properly too.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Whats the best way to clean the IAC?? i just want to do that so it doesnt crap out on me again!!
 
#15
How can you tell if the IAC valve is bad? I think mines is bad but not confirmed. Some of the problems I'm experiencing is starting on hot days. It just doesn't fire up hard & strong like it does in the mornings. Sometimes it'll stumble on startup. The RPMs drops real low and then jumps up back to normal when starting up. Could this be caused by a bad IAC valve?
 
#17
00BlackBeautyGT said:
How can you tell if the IAC valve is bad? I think mines is bad but not confirmed. Some of the problems I'm experiencing is starting on hot days. It just doesn't fire up hard & strong like it does in the mornings. Sometimes it'll stumble on startup. The RPMs drops real low and then jumps up back to normal when starting up. Could this be caused by a bad IAC valve?
Click to expand...

Thats what mine did when it crapped out...both times. one time it even stalled right after i started the car.
 
#18
00BlackBeautyGT said:
How can you tell if the IAC valve is bad? I think mines is bad but not confirmed. Some of the problems I'm experiencing is starting on hot days. It just doesn't fire up hard & strong like it does in the mornings. Sometimes it'll stumble on startup. The RPMs drops real low and then jumps up back to normal when starting up. Could this be caused by a bad IAC valve?
Click to expand...

many people say iac. many people also have bought a new iac and had it do nothing for them. i personally think it's just a bad ford problem like the unfortunately people that have GT's that stall on them on the highway...
 
#19
Pull it off...that easy enough. Then get some intake cleaner that is says on the label that it is safe for TB's. That is real important. Spray it in the IAC as much as you want. Let is soak for a while. Eat a burger, have a beer.... Then drain it, and spray some more. Shake it out and put it back on.

You will see carbon in it...that is normal. But it will look clean when you are done.
 
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