I am a new member and in bad need of some advice! I have a 87 with a 302 and tremec 3550. It has a ford cable, steeda quad. and fire wall adjuster. Yesterday (all day) I installed a ford racing clutch.10 1/2 HD. Nothing real special. But now no matter how I adjust the cable the clutch will not completely disengage. It will go in gear with some effort. Reverse just grinds.
I am out of adjustment. The fork is hitting on the bell housing. And still it is not completely disengaged. Is the frok bent? Do the tremecs use any thing different than the T-5 that would do this? Help out the new guy please!?
I am out of adjustment. The fork is hitting on the bell housing. And still it is not completely disengaged. Is the frok bent? Do the tremecs use any thing different than the T-5 that would do this? Help out the new guy please!?
Well amigos....I am screwed. Kinda. I got a new fork, and I put one washer behind the pivot to make up for some wear. Put the trans back in for the second time. Adjusted the cable out all proper like, and..... it worked the clutch now works great. However, and this is the bad part. After I got the clutch to disengage all the way I noticed that my belt would squeek when I pushed on the clutch pedal. Then I relized oh $#it! My thrust bearing on the crank is wore out. So the crank moves back and forth. 3/16 of an inch to be exact.Andthat was the why the clutch would not completly disengage. Luckly I caught it before it lunched ad killed my motor. See the short block is a realy cheap rebuild. But my heads and valve train are good. I have twisted wegde TF heads, Trick Flow street intake, goldcrane roller rockers, trickflow push rods, and a ford f cam. So i Know I can put a crank kit in the block I have or possiably even just new bearings, but I would like to get a whole new short block or build my own. So I am going to start a new threadand see what every one recommends for a short block that will work well with trick flow heads. Any suggestions?????