Help Passing smog test; Cali

hc is hydrocarbon ( unburned fuel), so it may be an ignition misfire of some sort, check ur plugs, wires. or have you replaced ur fuel filter? i think that'll cause it to go up too. NOx is caused by high combustion temp, check ur egr if it is functioning properly, converters, timing too. i hope this kinda helps

smog

Sounds like it is rich you may want to change the O2 sensors and the base timing is 10degrees BTDC. hope this helps! Oh and I always use the guarantee to pass smog in a bottle stuff works evey time!

You can mix methanol with gasoline and pass so so clean

Pull the diagnostic codes and be certain all the emissions systems are functioning properly. Does the car have an air pump and cats on it?

Everything these guys said and

1. Change cap, wires, rotor, plugs. This is the first thing you do with any new car.
2. Verfiy existence of cats and smogpump
3. Pull codes to see if anything is malfunctioning.

If you are still having problems, you can goose it. Depends on how much they check.
For the test
1. Disconnect the check engine lightbulb
2. Run the smogpump tube directly to crossover behind the heads.
3. Run a hose from the h-pipe/4cat air injection tube in a sneaky fasion and dump it to the fender.
You are now adding more air earlier and dumping some exhaust.
4. Do the same with the hose on the side of the filler neck. Crankcase vapors are now being dumped.

If this still fails, get an alternator pulley and attach it to the smogpump front. You will need to drill 3 holes in the inner crevase of the pulley to get it to attach. DONT DRIVE LIKE THIS! Attach the pulley around the corner from the shop and dont idle there while waiting. The airpump _will_ sieze after 15 minutes of this but until then, it will be a supercharger for your exhuast. There will be practically fresh air bellowing out of your tailpipes.

I pass the sniffer in mass with a carb like this. No way you will fail with all that unless they find your sneakytubes and fail you for that.

Good luck

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Slow down and follow the links above. All that's required is a way to jumper the diagnostic port and your check engine light or a test light. Alternatively, for about $20 WalMart sells a scanner that plugs in complete with instruction booklet.

How far out were you on HC and NOx? Post the spec and your numbers. If you're close, adjustments might get you there. If you're WAY out and the codes don't reveal a major problem, then perhaps the cats have been gutted.