help please.

rob's car

Member
Sep 13, 2020
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new york
Trying to get my son't 1988 fox body running. At first car would turn over by crossing the solenoid. Changed the ign module, pip, cap, rotor. Read a little and because it still wasn't turning over with the key, was told the solenoid might be damaged by crossing it over. Just put new one of them on and turned the key. It has a really short hum sound and now there is no power to the key or any chimes inside the car. Tried maybe crossing the solenoid (against my better judgement) but get nothing. Like there is no power to the solenoid now either. Anyone have any suggestions where to start. I don't want to change the computer. Although looking at the condensors, they don't look very healthy either. Please help....Thanks
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Stick with us, we won't steer you wrong, a lot of miss information out there, jumping the solenoid rarely does damage but here is where you need to start
You can find a lot of good info in the 5.0 technical / how to thread in the fox tech forum.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Pull the wire off the small post on the solenoid. Probe it to ground and turn the key to start. You should get 12v.

to test the solenoid, run a wire from the battery to the small post on the solenoid. This should close the contacts and start the car. MAKE SURE CAR IN NUETRAL
 

rob's car

Member
Sep 13, 2020
17
1
13
new york
Pull the wire off the small post on the solenoid. Probe it to ground and turn the key to start. You should get 12v.

to test the solenoid, run a wire from the battery to the small post on the solenoid. This should close the contacts and start the car. MAKE SURE CAR IN NUETRAL

Thanks, I found a blown inline fuse. Replaced it and now when I jump the solenoid, car turns over. Still won't with the key though. Wiring is horrible on this car, dry and cracking plugs, etc.
 

rob's car

Member
Sep 13, 2020
17
1
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new york
Still won't start. Smell fuel, pulled plug and have spark. Just won't fire up. When the car was running and brought to my house, whenever they turned right the car would just shut off. Once at my house, I would start it once in a while and usually fired right up. Since I wasn't driving it (the occasional back and forth in the driveway), I don't know what they actually mean buy turning right the car just shut off. Now won't start at all. Frustrating...
 

7991LXnSHO

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When you get that far, here is a great place to get the capacitors replaced and the computer checked out.
 

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rob's car

Member
Sep 13, 2020
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new york
Thanks for the info. Just a quick question, would something on the starter make it so that the key won't turn over the car? Kinda new to Fords, learning a lot in the past couple months though.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Most of the time a no crank problem can be traced to a bad connection or starter switch problem, the ignition switch is on the lower part of the steering column under the dash (not the key switch) and there are issues with the switch/wire connections going bad.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Thanks for the info. Just a quick question, would something on the starter make it so that the key won't turn over the car? Kinda new to Fords, learning a lot in the past couple months though.

No. The starter is isolated from the start circuit. It just sees power from the starter relay which triggers it to turn over.

The starter relay gets it's signal to close from the ignition switch, so if you aren't getting 12V on the red/blue wire at the relay, then you have an issue in the ignition switch, or the clutch switch or NSS is open. Is this a manual trans? If so, the failed clutch switch is common. Unplug and jump it out with a 5A blade fuse to check. I'd start by testing for 12V off the white/pink wire off the ignition switch when you turn thge key to start. If you have it there, but not at the red/light blue wire at the relay, you need to check the clutch switch and if the reverse harness on the T-5 is present and plugged in. (If the car is an AOD ill amend this statement)

1600274738238.png
 

rob's car

Member
Sep 13, 2020
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new york
I tried turning over the car and it almost started to crank over with the key. Then nothing again. That same fuse blew again. It is an in line fuse on the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter. I read up on it a little and leaning towards a split in the wire or hole where moisture, oil or something is getting in and shorting it out. Can't get it up on jack stands until the weekend to look. Just wondering if anyone agree's.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Continuing to try to crank the engine with dead battery or bad connections will only damage starter/wires.
Have you checked battery for 12 volts?
Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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This is what you need to do:
 

rob's car

Member
Sep 13, 2020
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1
13
new york
Got the car to turn over but fuel pump doesn't turn on when you turn the key. Slowly getting there....ugg. Also, I felt a click on the fuel relay when I turned the key
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,447
5,621
193
polk county florida
the 5.0 technical/how to thread in the tech forums look for 'how to check for codes' there you will find how to jump the fuel pump, you will also see the 'cranks but no start checklist' if the engine is now turning over strong, do that checklist to diagnose fuel pump issues.
 

rob's car

Member
Sep 13, 2020
17
1
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new york
Went to the how to jump fuel but there is no gray single wire test, there is only the black one that has the different pins. Not sure if it was removed for whatever reason. Going to go thru the cranks but don't start checklist
 

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