Help save my T-5

DJ MIKE A

New Member
Nov 13, 2006
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Yup yup I've been havin problems with my transmission. I have a Steeda Tri Ax shifter stock T-5 5speed and a centerline dual friction clutch. The problem seems to be my 1st to 2nd shift. Everytime I do it at top RPMS it grinds no matter how hard i throw the bitch in gear. Could it be a problem in how we installed the tranny after we flat backed the ****in clutch? Also sometimes I have to realese the clutch and push it back in to get it in 1st or reverse. If you need more info just ask.
 
I assume your transmission did not grind before the clutch install. So I would assume that the clutch may not be fully disengaging.

Did you......

1. Have your flywheel turned, so ensure that it is true.

2. Install a new throw-out bearing.

3. Torque all bolts to specs.

4. Use the correct amount of fluid which is almost 3 quarts.

5. Have a good cable that is adjusted properly.

6. Allow proper break-in. Centerforce Dual Friction clutches require 500 mile break in periods.

A little more info may be useful to us.:)
 
Sounds like synchros. When you put your trans in, did it go into the clutch no problem? If you let it hang at all from the input shaft, you may have done damage inside the trans.
 
The clutch was used but very very lightly maybe 1000 miles granny shifting. These problems however didn't start until about 3 months after the clutch install and it ran fine up until then. I will try all of your suggestions although we did do most of them when we installed the new clutch. We didn't actually get to turn the flywheel cause it was 12am and I had work the next day.

StangGT it went in pretty much perfectly I don't remember letting it hang at all.


I don't know what other info you would need it's a 92 5.0 very lightly modded. But the problems with the tranny are pretty much limited to that. I do believe the reverse/1st thing is a clutch dis-engagment prob but it shouldn't be happening.
 
First step is to adjust the clutch. I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. If I shift only when the pedal hits the floor, there are several milliseconds that the clutch disk is not being driven by the engine or transmission. In theory, this lets the disk slow down some and makes less work for the synchronizers – keep in mind that this is a theory, but it seems reasonable. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.
 
How would I adjust my clutch cable if I don't have a firewall adjuster? And how would I do it exactly the way you said to? sorry if those are stupid questions

Are you sure this is a problem with my clutch or could it be my tranny?
 
do you have to push the clutch clear to the floor and then some to get it into 1st and reverse? and also is it real stiff pushing the clutch pedal down? if you have both of those problems your pressure plate is likely fried. had a HD Motorsports clutch when the 89 was a 5 speed, throttle stuck one day and had to shift real fast at 7grand:eek: . eversince then it was tough to get into first and reverse without grinding , also grinded a little when shifted to 2nd. pulled the old clutch out and all the tongs on the pressure plate looked like an onion blossom from chili's lol.
 
Hmmm I push the clutch down just as far as I normally do which is all the way. And I shouldn't have ****ed up the pressure plate because I replaced it with the clutch. Ill just wait till I can go to the shop to lift this bitch and see why she's crying.