HELP
- Thread starter GMdestroyer
- Start date
Yes that is all you need, as long as your hoses are in good shape.
Once yuou drain the rad, disconnect all the hoses, pull off the fan, clutch and pulley all you have to do is unbolt the water pump (if it has never been off the car it could be tight, some of the bolts go into a water passage or into the block) Just take your time and get them all out, clean all the bolts up, clean the timing cover gasket surface and install the new pump, put it all back on and your good to go..
Once yuou drain the rad, disconnect all the hoses, pull off the fan, clutch and pulley all you have to do is unbolt the water pump (if it has never been off the car it could be tight, some of the bolts go into a water passage or into the block) Just take your time and get them all out, clean all the bolts up, clean the timing cover gasket surface and install the new pump, put it all back on and your good to go..
All the water pump bolts have a specific place that they go, and it is easy to mix them up. Take a cardbord box & turn it upside down. When you pull the bolts out of the water pump, stick the bolt into the cardboard in the same relative position as it came out of the pump. When you are done, the bolts will be in a circle with the top bolt at 12:00 o'clock and the rest of the bolts in order after that. A tap to clean the threads out is good to use if you have one with a long shank. Coat the bolt threads with anti-seize to keep them from seizing.
- Apr 9, 2002
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I think I has to remove the radiator whn I did mine or at least move it a little. Correct me im wrong!
Joe (Mustang Joe), i dont think you need to mess with the rad - i did not. i believe a bracket on the driver side of the motor comes out (with an accessory or two being hung out of the way. extra bungee cords are nice for hanging accessories like that).
Jrichker and Rick, ive always been foggy on the dressing of bolts. when/how do you know when (and which) bolts go through water passages, and what is the best thing to use? i have seen some folks say they use never seize, some say RTV, some use motor oil, and so on. i think i used some Permatex water pump/t-stat sealant...but what is best and how do you know when and what to use?
(i just try to use common sense, but would like to do it "right" all the time, if i can). many thanks for any replies!
Jrichker and Rick, ive always been foggy on the dressing of bolts. when/how do you know when (and which) bolts go through water passages, and what is the best thing to use? i have seen some folks say they use never seize, some say RTV, some use motor oil, and so on. i think i used some Permatex water pump/t-stat sealant...but what is best and how do you know when and what to use?
(i just try to use common sense, but would like to do it "right" all the time, if i can). many thanks for any replies!
HISSIN50 said:
All the water pump bolts seem to want to corrode and seize up. It may well be because moisture gets down in between the bolt threads and the block. I try to use anti seize on almost everything that has potential to rust and seize up. The one place I would use a sealant type material is on the lower head bolts, since they go directly into the water jacket.
powershift351
New Member
jrichker said:
That is the same train of thought I use, I use anti-seize on almost anything just like jrichker, especially on bolts that go into alum, or anything that passes through alum.
I use ARP moly of the upper head bolts, ARP sealer on the lower (water jacket bolts) I use copper permatex around the water jackets on intake bolts, but regular RTV for the front and rear of the lower intake. I use copper on the water pump to backing plate gasket.
Joe R and Rick, thanks so much for the info. one of those things where as long as i use something it should work, but what i do (have done) is not always the best way. i have mental issues about making sure things are sealed up. LOL.
i have normally used RTV (often copper) on bolts (like in the water pump), as i figured it would seal and also keep the threads from galling (sp?). but the info provided sounds like i should be doing something else (Rick, thanks for all the detail - IIRC that sounds about what Yount uses on the various bolt applications).
im saving and printing this out for future reference. thanks again to both of you!
i have normally used RTV (often copper) on bolts (like in the water pump), as i figured it would seal and also keep the threads from galling (sp?). but the info provided sounds like i should be doing something else (Rick, thanks for all the detail - IIRC that sounds about what Yount uses on the various bolt applications).
im saving and printing this out for future reference. thanks again to both of you!
im sorry, but i suck with computers - i dont know how to do multiple quotes and so on, as some can.Rick 91GT said:
Rick, are you talkin about the backing plate that comes on new water pumps (it is held on with two bolts from the back side of the pump)?
i have never heard of anyone dressing that one. i did on the last install (removed the two bolts, ran Permatex water pump sealant around it and put it back on with the 2 bolts). i had wondered if that was a good or bad idea, but i figured it would not hurt. is that what you are talkin about and is that an ok thing to do?
many thanks! (my OCD [LOL, J/K - kinda'] makes me do little things like this that no one ever really addresses).
HISSIN50 said:
I had a nice Stewart high volume water pump that I have removed a few times and that gasket between the pump housing and backing plate was getting nasty so I changed it. At the advise of Stewart I put a thin layer of the Copper RTV on the pump housing, applied the new gasket, backing plate and the 2 bolts.
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