Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed

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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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Hello. There is a section for 2.3 tech under the Fox and Sn95 talk where you can get more focused views for this question.
While I move your question there, have you done a tune up and checked for codes?
 
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Piranahbite

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Jan 21, 2022
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American canyon
Hello. There is a section for 2.3 tech under the Fox and Sn95 talk where you can get more focused views for this question.
While I move your question there, have you done a tune up and checked for codes?
hi and thanks! im not sure how to check for codes. i have replaced my clutch and flywheel, cap and rotor and plugs and wires. as well as usual filter changes and sorts
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Check compression.
And here for checking codes:
The connector should be the same V8 for 4cyl.
 

Piranahbite

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American canyon
Check compression.
And here for checking codes:
The connector should be the same V8 for 4cyl.
what i do know is i have a valve cover leak and a nock in the top end me and my uncle suspect i have a collapsed lifter or something wrong in the valvetrain for cylinder #2 we had it running and it was making the nock, we unplugged the wire for that cylinder and the noise quieted down. i think when i do my timing belt and valve cover gasket ill find out what's wrong with that cylinder.

and do you think the code reader would be something i can find at the local AutoZone? or is it hard to find since its pre obd2
 

Piranahbite

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i also don't have a cooling fan that comes on automatically, i installed a relay that comes on at 180 but i broke the thermometer on installation. so i have just turned the fan on manually via switch and left it on till i shut the car off again.

the whole reason why was because when i pulled the car out of my grandmas garage and took it on its first drive in 20 years it overheated and puked coolant all over the place and then realized the fan never came on. i tried to trace the wiring but i lost it. plus what was there had been modified for an unknown reason wires were cut and soldered back together.

temp guage may or may not work
gas guage seems to work when it wants too, replaced sending unit still doesn't work
oil pressure guage bounces around 24/7

i dont think anything iv mentioned is critically wrong since iv been able to drive it 3000 miles without any problems
 

Warhorse Racing

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Feb 10, 2019
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I just started a 2.3L autocross project. I've been researching how to get more power out of the 2.3L engine. Many of the mods can be expensive: ported head and, intake, larger throttle body, better cam and header. What kind of budget did you have in mind? And how do you intend to use the car? There's a lot of free/inexpensive weight reduction that can be done to these cars. A lighter car will be faster.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,388
3,091
194
Kearney, NE
I just started a 2.3L autocross project. I've been researching how to get more power out of the 2.3L engine. Many of the mods can be expensive: ported head and, intake, larger throttle body, better cam and header. What kind of budget did you have in mind? And how do you intend to use the car? There's a lot of free/inexpensive weight reduction that can be done to these cars. A lighter car will be faster.
That’s why I was checking to see if it’s already running its best first. If it’s running weak, the expensive stuff will not be money well spent.
Also, the last 2.3/manual I rode in was not a rocket. But with an aggressive driver, it was enough to make me want to get out and walk.:eek:

Looking forward to the new project’s progress.
 

Piranahbite

Active Member
Jan 21, 2022
101
15
28
American canyon
I just started a 2.3L autocross project. I've been researching how to get more power out of the 2.3L engine. Many of the mods can be expensive: ported head and, intake, larger throttle body, better cam and header. What kind of budget did you have in mind? And how do you intend to use the car? There's a lot of free/inexpensive weight reduction that can be done to these cars. A lighter car will be faster.
i just want it to be a car that i can drive on the daily and have a little fun on weekends, not insanely fast but quick enough to pass up the smug teen in a honda civic ya know what i mean?
 

Piranahbite

Active Member
Jan 21, 2022
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American canyon
That’s why I was checking to see if it’s already running its best first. If it’s running weak, the expensive stuff will not be money well spent.
Also, the last 2.3/manual I rode in was not a rocket. But with an aggressive driver, it was enough to make me want to get out and walk.:eek:

Looking forward to the new project’s progress.
haha yea made my friend want that last night... lest just say he doesn't like turns anymore
 
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Warhorse Racing

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That’s why I was checking to see if it’s already running its best first. If it’s running weak, the expensive stuff will not be money well spent.
Also, the last 2.3/manual I rode in was not a rocket. But with an aggressive driver, it was enough to make me want to get out and walk.:eek:

Looking forward to the new project’s progress.
I totally agree. The best first step is to make sure you're getting all the power it's supposed to have. I didn't have a lot of experience with 2.3L Mustangs prior to picking up my 1993. For a car with 105 hp, it's faster than I expected it to be.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Get it hitting on all cylinders first. Fix the cooling fan and the oil leak.
Don't expect much in the way of honda killing power without spending a lot of money.
They can be a pretty bullit proof daily driver when running good.
 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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Unless it is a 78 Civic with a carburetor, do not pick fights with a Honda
Your 87 2.3 had 90 Horsepower brand new and hatches are heavy
Turbocharge it when you can afford it
4 Hi Po 289 rods and some forged pistons (yes Turbo Coupes and SVO's used Boss 302 rods)(which are 289 hi po rods)
Save up for it
Then you might be able to out and around a few Hondas
 

Piranahbite

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That will ultimately come down to adding power and reducing weight. You can choose to stay n/a or you can add a turbo. Rear gears are also an option.
what would be cheaper? keeping it n/a and doing things like a header and an exhaust? that's part of the plan already. i was thinking about re doing mine with a 3 inch exhaust with high flow cats and a muffler. and a long tube header if i can find one. just to get a little more out of it making it flow better and stuff

also keep in mind that im a 17 year old and this is my first car and its also my daily and i have very little income so anything i sort of have to find ways to keep things cheap
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
24,062
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polk county florida
If you want 'cheap' dependable daily driver keep it stock, the header and exhaust is a good upgrade from stock and I would recommend doing it with a 2.5' pipe, the extra cost for the 3" is not worth it, you're not going to gain anything unless you start ' building' the engine and that will be more money than you can afford given your age and budget, if you don't believe me go to a circle track race and ask someone who runs a 4 cylinder car.
JMO
 
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Warhorse Racing

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what would be cheaper? keeping it n/a and doing things like a header and an exhaust? that's part of the plan already. i was thinking about re doing mine with a 3 inch exhaust with high flow cats and a muffler. and a long tube header if i can find one. just to get a little more out of it making it flow better and stuff

also keep in mind that im a 17 year old and this is my first car and its also my daily and i have very little income so anything i sort of have to find ways to keep things cheap

The head is the big issue in these cars. I don't think you'll see big gains from a header/larger exhaust. When I've asked companies about gains from using a ported/polished intake and larger header on the stock head (n/a), I was told the gains would be minimal.

You might want to reach out to BoPort Performance, Stinger Performance, Automotive Component Engineering, and Racer Walsh; they all make parts for 2.3L Mustangs (turbo and n/a). But, as others have said, the parts can be pricey.

I plan on keeping my car n/a, so I'm removing as much weight as I can (within the SCCA Rules). There are definitely choices I intend to make that I wouldn't recommend for a daily driver. However, there are options that are (relatively) inexpensive and can reduce weight...

Do you need the rear seat? That can save 45 lbs. A fiberglass hood will shave weight; a lightweight K-member and A-arms can also reduce weight. If you don't need power seats, manual seat tracks will save weight. You can delete the center armrest. Carpets that are lighter than stock are available.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,388
3,091
194
Kearney, NE
If you want 'cheap' dependable daily driver keep it stock, the header and exhaust is a good upgrade from stock and I would recommend doing it with a 2.5' pipe, the extra cost for the 3" is not worth it, you're not going to gain anything unless you start ' building' the engine and that will be more money than you can afford given your age and budget, if you don't believe me go to a circle track race and ask someone who runs a 4 cylinder car.
JMO
Yes!
A turbo 2.3 engine requires either a complete build or a replacement on hand.

What rear end gears is in the diff?
 
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Piranahbite

Active Member
Jan 21, 2022
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American canyon
The head is the big issue in these cars. I don't think you'll see big gains from a header/larger exhaust. When I've asked companies about gains from using a ported/polished intake and larger header on the stock head (n/a), I was told the gains would be minimal.

You might want to reach out to BoPort Performance, Stinger Performance, Automotive Component Engineering, and Racer Walsh; they all make parts for 2.3L Mustangs (turbo and n/a). But, as others have said, the parts can be pricey.

I plan on keeping my car n/a, so I'm removing as much weight as I can (within the SCCA Rules). There are definitely choices I intend to make that I wouldn't recommend for a daily driver. However, there are options that are (relatively) inexpensive and can reduce weight...

Do you need the rear seat? That can save 45 lbs. A fiberglass hood will shave weight; a lightweight K-member and A-arms can also reduce weight. If you don't need power seats, manual seat tracks will save weight. You can delete the center armrest. Carpets that are lighter than stock are available.
i know weaight is a huge factor in that car, i use my car for hauling freinds and bikes around and i sort of cant live without the small things that car dose have, but i see what your saying about weight.

and im willing to save and shell out some cash for some parts and i figured that about gaining power through intake and exhaust modifications