Holley Rebuild Time Please Help

[Xterminator03]

Hey Guys I am going to rebulid my holley. This is the first time I do this.
-Can anybody please suggest the best rebulid kit?
-What should I be looking for while rebuilding?
-Any tips or hints will be great.

I have a Holley 4150 List #4777 (Removed Choke)

 

[Xterminator03]

No Help Are you guys serious no one has any help.

 

[Xterminator03]

Thanks Guys you have been completly un-helpfull

 

[fordman54935]

Its been a while since I rebuilt a carb, but I would recommend Holley's own rebuild kits. They also make a Trick Kit, which includes alot of different gaskets and power valves I believe, but it costs a bit more than the regular rebuild kit. There are books written entirely about Holley carbs, I bought one that was written by Haynes and it was an excellent book for about $15. Also, I'd suggest getting a set of clear fuel sight plugs, they are great for making float adjustments without spilling gas all over your intake. Other than that, just make sure you have a large table cleared off with alot of room to lay out the parts as you dissasemble your carb, it really helps keep everything organized.

 

[Boss 351]

Hey man I did this last summer for the first time. It's real easy as long as you're organized. Also get a carb cleaner to clean out all the metering plates and whatnot. If you don't have a compressor, get those canned air things we use for dusting computers.

Get a Holly rebuild kit with all the gaskets, o-rings, powervalve, etc. Find the LIST number on your carb and use that at a Holly dealer (any performance shop).

You can also check to see if the mainbody is straight, you could use a glass and some aluminum sanding paper (800 or 1200) and sand the flat surfaces to make everything straight again.

I'm rebuilding mine again but this time I'm getting some chrome fuel bowls and painting my mainbody Ford blue or red.

Oh and for a little trick, I used some long bolts with plastic washers in the holes where the carb is mounted to the intake. Now the carb stands by itself and no chances of scratching the bottom part.

 

[crazypete]

The trickiest part will be the soaking step actually. I basically ruined a carb this way. Use the paintcan carb cleaner. ANYTHING else will leave a residue and you'll have a wrecked carb with filled passages.

There are lots of small items in there but nothing is particularly difficult to remove. An air compressor helps to blast out the passages. Only get the kits from holley. I have heard people with many problems on the lesser kits.

 

[Xterminator03]

Thank you, Guys

Oh and for a little trick, I used some long bolts with plastic washers in the holes where the carb is mounted to the intake. Now the carb stands by itself and no chances of scratching the bottom part.

Oh by the way boss 351 did you see some performance improvements by doing this.

 

[Boss 351]

Thank you, Guys



Oh by the way boss 351 did you see some performance improvements by doing this.

haha no, it's basically a carb stand. So when you work on the carb it can stand by itself. Put some bolts in the 4 corner holes where the intake studs are... Remove that before installing the carb to the engine lol.

 

[crazypete]

Get a spacer plate to boost performance. Cools the carb down and prevents the gas from boiling when you shut the engine. Plus it straightens the airflow as it enters the intake.

 

[rd]

These are relatively easy, I did one of mine a week ago Sat. I would just get the Holley rebuild kit, for a first time. Make sure to use the blue gaskets, as they remove easy next time. Holley parts are best, and available in kits or individually, from Summit or Jegs.

I had 3 of these for several years, and have had one since 86 or so, and I just buy the parts I need, such as the rear bowl gaskets, as these seem to need changing every year. Stuff like power valves, accelerator pump stuff, jets, etc, lasts much longer.

You should get a book. The first time may take some time to carefully clean the old gaskets. Other wise it is quite easy. Cleanliness and such is the most important thing.

I just changed the rear bowl and metering plate gaskets, and the primary bowl and accel pump items, and put it back. Did not touch any idle adjustments, and it runs just like it should again.

 

[Xterminator03]

I already have the spacer but thanks for the recomendation.