Electrical HOLLEY

Don't know if you figured this out (4mo later), but I recently did a swap over last winter. Here is what I learned

Gauges
If your keeping the computer then your speedo will continue to work
For the other gauges, tach, oil, water, you will need to keep your injector harness, but cut it up and keep only 3 wires. These are part of the 48-pin connector at the firewall / passenger side

• Tach - I forget the pin & color, but its a wire in the corner of that 48-pin connector, you can trial & error that some as there's only 4-corners. But this wire will need to go the tach signal wire on whichever Dist/Ignition box you end up using
• Oil - you can keep the original wire/connector for the oil pressure sensor that goes down left side, just rear of the timing cover
• Temp - same as oil, you can keep the original wire/connector intact that goes to the temp sensor on the front/left corner of the lower intake

Distributors
Easiest one our there is a HEI. Aside from all the hate you'll receive and/or wicked looks from others, its a simple 1-wire hookup (12v) and doesn't get any simpler than that. The ign module & coil are all together. But trade offs are height and diameter. You'll be limited to which diameter air cleaners you can use simply because the dist will be in the way. Typically a 10-12" is as far as you can take it. Since the ignition and coil are integrated, if one of these fail they are rather simple to change out without taking the dist out.

Another option are RTR 'Ready to Run' distributors, similar to a HEI where the ign module is still contained inside, but require a separate coil be wired in. Still super simple to wire in, but look more traditional. This is what I used on mine. Opens up your options for air cleaners too

Any traditional vac advance distributor will work, but aside from the two listed above you'll need a separate coil + ign box like a MSD or Duraspark....etc.... Regardless of what other people think of chinese no-name brands vs major-brands made in china, ALL of these will work. Its just a matter of how much $$$ you want to spend and how much effort you want to put in.

Two very important things for our 94/95 cars,

1. make sure your dist has the longer shaft (1.5in past the dist gear)..... sometimes referred to as a 351 distributor. You need this to reach the oil pump specifically on the 94/95 cars. Most aftermarket out there have the traditinal shaft legth of 1.0in past the gear and won't work.
2. since our cars are HO Roller cam, make sure you get a steel gear for your application. Most are good about advertising what the gear material comprises of, but some cheaper offerings may not. Don't cheapen up here, otherwise you'll toast your engine

Carburetors
You should be fine with that brawler 600. Its a entry level carb, but electric choke & vacuum secondaries are great for a daily driver. IMHO I like Edelbrock better, as I just find them easier to tune. Not bashing Holley, I just didn't find it as user friendly.

Fuel
I didn't see you asking about this, but also not sure if you addressed it, but fuel delivery. While most everyone says to go a low pressure pump like a Holley Red or Blue, you can technically still use the factory pump. The trick will be getting the EFI psi down to carb safe psi. This requires putting in a dual-stage regulator. I know Aeromotive makes one and probably some other off brands. But I run the Aero on mine with a Walbro 190lph (from a previous upgrade), it necks the pressure down to 20psi at the 1st stage, and then regulates (1-10psi adjustable) on the 2nd stage. This is using the stock 5/16 feed and 1/4 return hard lines. Despite whatever people's personal feelings are about this, a couple trade offs are its quiet as the pump is submerged, and easy to switch back to EFI if you chose to down the road.

Misc
other things to think about will be if you plan to keep AC, and also how to make the Low/High speed fan work for cooling. All of this can be wired in separate, or if you keep the ccrm intact, you can do some trickery wiring to make all of that work too since your computer will basically be lobotomized by this point