Yeah, thought of that but Id like to just do this once, LOL. Tracking says I should have them tomorrow, mid day. Ill just try and stay occupied until then.Could also just use 4 old bolts with the heads cut off as guides to mount the intake, then remove and replace with nice bolts once the rest are in.
| Item | Part Number | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 388483-S2 | Screw (2 Req'd) |
| 2 | — | Armature (Rotary Vane) (Part of 12127) |
| 3 | — | Shaft Assembly (Part of 12127) |
| 4 | N801293-S36 | Screw |
| 5 | — | Stator (Hall Effect Vane Switch Assembly) (Part of... |
Ill have to try that today. I really had no business spending $100 on a distributor. BUT it would be cool to have a spare so maybe Ill just throw it on the shelf.If the distributor is OEM then I would pop it apart and clean the varnish out of it. I used WD40 and a brass tube brush to clean the body and then some 0000 steel wool to clean the distributor shaft. The shaft will have grooves in it so make sure to get those cleaned out as well. Some info in this thread with me babbling about differences between the two that I have:
It appears that some distributors came with two different styles of collars. This is part #12 in this distributor diagram (I know the diagram is for a 94/94 car but you get the idea):
Item Part Number Description 1 388483-S2 Screw (2 Req'd) 2 — Armature (Rotary Vane) (Part of 12127) 3 — Shaft Assembly (Part of 12127) 4 N801293-S36 Screw 5 — Stator (Hall Effect Vane Switch Assembly) (Part of...
- AeroCoupe
- Replies: 17
- Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
I did not take pictures of the shaft before it was cleaned up but here is one of it clean and one where you can see the grooves I am talking about:
I used a small pick to get most of the crud out of the grooves then I finished them up with a small brass brush and WD40.
Yeah these are Cardone overseas units. I'm not shocked in the slightest, but I'm not in the position to drop $800 or whatever a name brand costs.I don't know what brand distributor you got for $100 but I went through three bad new ones and soon found out the new ones are All made over seas and use cheap electronics. The one I got that did work was a dragon fire brand and also made in ROC.
That's rough man, I know the feeling well... This too shall pass. Drink a beer and then get back at it.Man. Tough day trying to get the Mustang up and running. Temp sensor was on the fritz, ordered a new one. Still not right. After a bit of troubleshooting, it was a loose pin. Then had to re-scale the table because the temp values were all wrong. Put the engine back together, realize the upper intake isn’t seating because of a bolt being too high. Put a plug in, put the intake back on and start it. Runs ok for a few seconds then dies. Start it again, smell fuel. #5 fuel injector spraying fuel everywhere.
I’m burnt out. It’s been an absolute beating trying to get this car across the goal line.
It's gotta be something like that. It does it even with the S&P shaker connections unplugged. The new plug comes today so Ill look at running new wires altogether.I’d unplug the ECU and check continuity on those wires. Almost like one is going to ground or they are touching somehow?
It's gotta be something like that. It does it even with the S&P shaker connections unplugged. The new plug comes today so Ill look at running new wires altogether.
I always like to point out that @TOOLOW91 has told me for YEARS now to get rid of the factory harness and I always shrugged it off because "mine is fine" and here we areeeeeeee.
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