How can I spend </= $1,000 on my Drive Train?

[96TripleBlackGT]

Wow, There's a lot of good stuff to read on this forum and I always come back when I need to learn something. HowStuffWorks.com is pretty decent too.

First, I would like to get a critique on my understanding of Flywheel/Clutch/PP/TOB operation along w/ transmission.

Clutch pedal down = Cable pulled? = fork pushing in TOB = TOB pushes pressure plate fingers = clutch springs causing the clutch to be pulled away from the flywheel.

Now if -> the transmission is put into gear while the clutch is disengaged and the clutch pedal is released slowly while giving a little gas, then -> the clutch disk should catch the spinning flywheel...giving torque to whole drivetrain.

? why does the engine not die with the clutch engaged and gearing in neutral? Is it because there is no load or is there some sort of switch?

In my case I took my car to an auto hobby shop and me (clutch apprentice) and a guy who swaps clutches out in under 2 hours did mine and I had bought a Luk Repset clutch kit. Unfortunately I don't remember us getting the flywheel resurfaced. So two years later occasionally at stop light I get the chatters and it's embarrassing as hell and I don't know if it's oil in my bellhouse or a damaged flywheel so I'm going to replace it all because I understand weak or damaged parts can have cascading effects on the whole system.

If I wanted to get: (NEW)
1.pilot bearing
2.flywheel
3.clutch disk
4.pressure plate
5.throwout bearings
6.fork (release lever)
7.quadrants and clutch cable

? Can I get these for torque ratings of up to 400 rwhp for under a $1,000? What brands would you all suggest? I've been hearing KC and centerforce, but that might be a bit expensive even though I did see an almost complete kit from Mcleod (summitracing) for a grand.

? Also, will having a clutch that grabs have an adverse effect on my T56 (I believe) transmission?:SNSign:

 

[HoustonGT]

Wow, There's a lot of good stuff to read on this forum and I always come back when I need to learn something. HowStuffWorks.com is pretty decent too.

First, I would like to get a critique on my understanding of Flywheel/Clutch/PP/TOB operation along w/ transmission.

Clutch pedal down = Cable pulled? = fork pushing in TOB = TOB pushes pressure plate fingers = clutch springs causing the clutch to be pulled away from the flywheel.

Now if -> the transmission is put into gear while the clutch is disengaged and the clutch pedal is released slowly while giving a little gas, then -> the clutch disk should catch the spinning flywheel...giving torque to whole drivetrain.

? why does the engine not die with the clutch engaged and gearing in neutral? Is it because there is no load or is there some sort of switch?

In my case I took my car to an auto hobby shop and me (clutch apprentice) and a guy who swaps clutches out in under 2 hours did mine and I had bought a Luk Repset clutch kit. Unfortunately I don't remember us getting the flywheel resurfaced. So two years later occasionally at stop light I get the chatters and it's embarrassing as hell and I don't know if it's oil in my bellhouse or a damaged flywheel so I'm going to replace it all because I understand weak or damaged parts can have cascading effects on the whole system.

If I wanted to get: (NEW)
1.pilot bearing
2.flywheel
3.clutch disk
4.pressure plate
5.throwout bearings
6.fork (release lever)
7.quadrants and clutch cable

? Can I get these for torque ratings of up to 400 rwhp for under a $1,000? What brands would you all suggest? I've been hearing KC and centerforce, but that might be a bit expensive even though I did see an almost complete kit from Mcleod (summitracing) for a grand.

? Also, will having a clutch that grabs have an adverse effect on my T56 (I believe) transmission?:SNSign:

You can easily get those parts for under $1,000.

1.pilot bearing - About $15 from Ford
2.flywheel - Depending on what type (aluminum, steel, billet), $200-400
*3.clutch disk - Comes in kit
*4.pressure plate - Comes in kit
*5.throwout bearings - Comes in kit
6.fork (release lever) - Under $50 from dealer
7.quadrants and clutch cable - Under $100 for the full Steeda kit (quadrant, cable, adjuster) from MustangTuning


* The whole clutch kit comes with clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. A Good kit can be had for $300-400 Depending on what kind of holding power you want and what Manufacturer (Centerforce, SPEC, etc)

Hope that helps and good luck

 

[merc123]

why does the engine not die with the clutch engaged and gearing in neutral? Is it because there is no load or is there some sort of switch?

Because the car isn't in any gear so there is not going to be any load put on the engine. An engine doesn't need a transmission to operate.

The clutch and flywheel are bolted onto the engine block and crank. The bellhousing is bolted to the engine block and contains the clutch fork. The transmission and input shaft are connected to the bellhousing and into the clutch.

So realistically you could just connect the flywheel (to get it started) and the motor will run. Now the motor will only run until redline say 7,000 RPM @ 30 MPH. This is where the transmission comes in. The input shaft puts a load on the motor and if it doesn't synch (slipping or dropping the clutch) it will simply stop rotating and die.

Case in point: I had 2 rod bearings go out. The car ran fine until the engine got some heat into it. As soon as I pushed the clutch in (no load on motor and low RPM) it would shut off (essentially the motor was locking down). As long as I had it in a gear and running above idle it would run all day.

I hope that explains it a little better.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

So you have a T56??? Those came in the 03/04 cobras...and are 6spd. Your car comes with a T45 (sucky). You could always swap in a tr3650, or tko500 for about what your thinking to spend

 

[96TripleBlackGT]

Thanks guys,

....didn't think anyone was going to reply....

I've been doing some O.S. installs and couldn't get around to posting back.

T56 I knew I had my trannie numbers all jacked up. Guess I'll start hunting transmission specs.

Merc, that was a very good explanation to the question I had. I think I've got a good working mental picture from that and it helps because I learn better visually.

Houston, it's good to hear that this wont break my piggggy bank, esp. knowing that I would have gotten charged an A&L @ the dealer just for parts.

Again thanks y'all.

 

[BooWFO]

Odds are the t45 will break before the clutch.
Heck one of my buddies has gone through 3 t45's this year in his 96 cobra.