Wow, There's a lot of good stuff to read on this forum and I always come back when I need to learn something. HowStuffWorks.com is pretty decent too.
First, I would like to get a critique on my understanding of Flywheel/Clutch/PP/TOB operation along w/ transmission.
Clutch pedal down = Cable pulled? = fork pushing in TOB = TOB pushes pressure plate fingers = clutch springs causing the clutch to be pulled away from the flywheel.
Now if -> the transmission is put into gear while the clutch is disengaged and the clutch pedal is released slowly while giving a little gas, then -> the clutch disk should catch the spinning flywheel...giving torque to whole drivetrain.
? why does the engine not die with the clutch engaged and gearing in neutral? Is it because there is no load or is there some sort of switch?
In my case I took my car to an auto hobby shop and me (clutch apprentice) and a guy who swaps clutches out in under 2 hours did mine and I had bought a Luk Repset clutch kit. Unfortunately I don't remember us getting the flywheel resurfaced. So two years later occasionally at stop light I get the chatters and it's embarrassing as hell and I don't know if it's oil in my bellhouse or a damaged flywheel so I'm going to replace it all because I understand weak or damaged parts can have cascading effects on the whole system.
If I wanted to get: (NEW)
1.pilot bearing
2.flywheel
3.clutch disk
4.pressure plate
5.throwout bearings
6.fork (release lever)
7.quadrants and clutch cable
? Can I get these for torque ratings of up to 400 rwhp for under a $1,000? What brands would you all suggest? I've been hearing KC and centerforce, but that might be a bit expensive even though I did see an almost complete kit from Mcleod (summitracing) for a grand.
? Also, will having a clutch that grabs have an adverse effect on my T56 (I believe) transmission?:SNSign:
First, I would like to get a critique on my understanding of Flywheel/Clutch/PP/TOB operation along w/ transmission.
Clutch pedal down = Cable pulled? = fork pushing in TOB = TOB pushes pressure plate fingers = clutch springs causing the clutch to be pulled away from the flywheel.
Now if -> the transmission is put into gear while the clutch is disengaged and the clutch pedal is released slowly while giving a little gas, then -> the clutch disk should catch the spinning flywheel...giving torque to whole drivetrain.
? why does the engine not die with the clutch engaged and gearing in neutral? Is it because there is no load or is there some sort of switch?
In my case I took my car to an auto hobby shop and me (clutch apprentice) and a guy who swaps clutches out in under 2 hours did mine and I had bought a Luk Repset clutch kit. Unfortunately I don't remember us getting the flywheel resurfaced. So two years later occasionally at stop light I get the chatters and it's embarrassing as hell and I don't know if it's oil in my bellhouse or a damaged flywheel so I'm going to replace it all because I understand weak or damaged parts can have cascading effects on the whole system.
If I wanted to get: (NEW)
1.pilot bearing
2.flywheel
3.clutch disk
4.pressure plate
5.throwout bearings
6.fork (release lever)
7.quadrants and clutch cable
? Can I get these for torque ratings of up to 400 rwhp for under a $1,000? What brands would you all suggest? I've been hearing KC and centerforce, but that might be a bit expensive even though I did see an almost complete kit from Mcleod (summitracing) for a grand.
? Also, will having a clutch that grabs have an adverse effect on my T56 (I believe) transmission?:SNSign: