How much for a clutch on a 95 GT?

lparsons

Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
May 24, 2004
198
1
18
Upstate New York
The clutch on my 95 GT went out this weekend. It had been making noise for a while, and then last night it started making truly horrible noises. Sometimes with the clutch in, sometimes with it out. But very loud noises that only change with the clutch position.
I am looking for a shop to do the job for me, as I have never done it myself and don't have the time or expertise to do it. I called a local pep boys, they quoted me $650 for the whole job (parts + labor). They said it would take about half a day, however they said they can't do it until Wednesday.
I am going to call a couple places on monday to see if anyone can do it sooner. I know there is a ford dealer in the area that has really long service hours, and they've been good to me before. I'm afraid as to what they might charge for the job, though.

I would much appreciate any input from people on what this should cost. I live in the Syracuse, NY area, if that makes any difference.
 
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I might get with the guys in the local car club - one of them is likely proficient and a lot cheaper than a shop.

If that price included the clutch kit, flywheel resurfacing, RMS, pilot bearing, etc, then it doesnt sound too bad. I have the feeling that most or all of those would cost even more. And if you need a new bearing retainer, you will probably be SOL.

Those are things I'd at least ask about - they're relatively cheap to do while doing a clutch and pretty expensive (labor) to do later.

Good luck.
 
Ok, I'll bite. What's the RMS? I'm guessing that they are not going to resurface the flywheel, we are talking about pep boys, here. I know very little about clutches beyond how to use it when driving...

Isn't the pilot bearing part of the clutch assembly? I guess I'm not entirely sure what all would be replaced in a "normal" clutch job.

thanks,



HISSIN50 said:
I might get with the guys in the local car club - one of them is likely proficient and a lot cheaper than a shop.

If that price included the clutch kit, flywheel resurfacing, RMS, pilot bearing, etc, then it doesnt sound too bad. I have the feeling that most or all of those would cost even more. And if you need a new bearing retainer, you will probably be SOL.

Those are things I'd at least ask about - they're relatively cheap to do while doing a clutch and pretty expensive (labor) to do later.

Good luck.
 
Ok, RMS = Rear main seal. It surrounds the crankshaft and is normally replaced when doing a clutch. Otherwise it would be a 10 dollar seal and 200 dollars of labor to replace later.

The pilot bearing is in the crank. See above for reason to replace.

The input shaft bearing retainer is on the trans - the TOB (throw out bearing) rides on it. They get worn (especially if aluminum) and can cause noise and issues. A new STEEL one is 40 bucks or so. I wouldnt trust a generic shop to replace it. It's not hard to replace but it's easy enough to screw up and need to open the trans to fix (needle bearings).

Most quotes never include all these items - they give the TOB, disk and PP quote with labor. It can add a coupe hundred more bucks real quick to do all the other things we normally do.

I brought up the mustang club thing because some of those guys are tight. I dont belong to a club here but some of the local guys take offense if a stanger doesnt ask them for help before going to a shop. It can be a nice, cheaper alternative.

Good luck and bump.
 
Ahh, yes. I should have figured that acronym out. I was thinking that the clutch replacement would be a good time to replace the rear main seal. I have definitely had leaky RMS in my previous (78) stang, and being as this one is leaking some oil, it wouldn't surprise me if it needed one as well.

I dropped a line in the "northeast" section here for advice as well. We'll see what hits I get.

thanks!



HISSIN50 said:
Ok, RMS = Rear main seal. It surrounds the crankshaft and is normally replaced when doing a clutch. Otherwise it would be a 10 dollar seal and 200 dollars of labor to replace later.

The pilot bearing is in the crank. See above for reason to replace.

The input shaft bearing retainer is on the trans - the TOB (throw out bearing) rides on it. They get worn (especially if aluminum) and can cause noise and issues. A new STEEL one is 40 bucks or so. I wouldnt trust a generic shop to replace it. It's not hard to replace but it's easy enough to screw up and need to open the trans to fix (needle bearings).

Most quotes never include all these items - they give the TOB, disk and PP quote with labor. It can add a coupe hundred more bucks real quick to do all the other things we normally do.

I brought up the mustang club thing because some of those guys are tight. I dont belong to a club here but some of the local guys take offense if a stanger doesnt ask them for help before going to a shop. It can be a nice, cheaper alternative.

Good luck and bump.
 
Well i jsut did the clutch on my car, never did one before... I have basic knowlege... i really wasn't that hard... Me and a bud did it in 7 hours... with breaks and lots of thinking on how to do things...

I spent $165 clutch, $93 flywheel, Then bought RMS, TOB Retainer, Pilot bearing, fluids, new flywheel and new starter bolts, Fiore clutch quadrant and fire wall adjsuter... I ended up between $450 and $500, BUT everything is new and upgraded from stock.

So I spent my labor $$ on parts basically...

And I can say I did it myself...
 
If I knew someone in this area that could help me, I would consider tackling it myself. I've only lived in central NY for a year, after having moved 1,000 miles last summer.

I don't know any mechanically-inclined people out here yet, so I think it's going to have to go in somewhere...



94-302-vert said:
Well i jsut did the clutch on my car, never did one before... I have basic knowlege... i really wasn't that hard... Me and a bud did it in 7 hours... with breaks and lots of thinking on how to do things...
.

And I can say I did it myself...