I might get with the guys in the local car club - one of them is likely proficient and a lot cheaper than a shop.
If that price included the clutch kit, flywheel resurfacing, RMS, pilot bearing, etc, then it doesnt sound too bad. I have the feeling that most or all of those would cost even more. And if you need a new bearing retainer, you will probably be SOL.
Those are things I'd at least ask about - they're relatively cheap to do while doing a clutch and pretty expensive (labor) to do later.
Good luck.
If that price included the clutch kit, flywheel resurfacing, RMS, pilot bearing, etc, then it doesnt sound too bad. I have the feeling that most or all of those would cost even more. And if you need a new bearing retainer, you will probably be SOL.
Those are things I'd at least ask about - they're relatively cheap to do while doing a clutch and pretty expensive (labor) to do later.
Good luck.
Ok, RMS = Rear main seal. It surrounds the crankshaft and is normally replaced when doing a clutch. Otherwise it would be a 10 dollar seal and 200 dollars of labor to replace later.
The pilot bearing is in the crank. See above for reason to replace.
The input shaft bearing retainer is on the trans - the TOB (throw out bearing) rides on it. They get worn (especially if aluminum) and can cause noise and issues. A new STEEL one is 40 bucks or so. I wouldnt trust a generic shop to replace it. It's not hard to replace but it's easy enough to screw up and need to open the trans to fix (needle bearings).
Most quotes never include all these items - they give the TOB, disk and PP quote with labor. It can add a coupe hundred more bucks real quick to do all the other things we normally do.
I brought up the mustang club thing because some of those guys are tight. I dont belong to a club here but some of the local guys take offense if a stanger doesnt ask them for help before going to a shop. It can be a nice, cheaper alternative.
Good luck and bump.
The pilot bearing is in the crank. See above for reason to replace.
The input shaft bearing retainer is on the trans - the TOB (throw out bearing) rides on it. They get worn (especially if aluminum) and can cause noise and issues. A new STEEL one is 40 bucks or so. I wouldnt trust a generic shop to replace it. It's not hard to replace but it's easy enough to screw up and need to open the trans to fix (needle bearings).
Most quotes never include all these items - they give the TOB, disk and PP quote with labor. It can add a coupe hundred more bucks real quick to do all the other things we normally do.
I brought up the mustang club thing because some of those guys are tight. I dont belong to a club here but some of the local guys take offense if a stanger doesnt ask them for help before going to a shop. It can be a nice, cheaper alternative.
Good luck and bump.
Well i jsut did the clutch on my car, never did one before... I have basic knowlege... i really wasn't that hard... Me and a bud did it in 7 hours... with breaks and lots of thinking on how to do things...
I spent $165 clutch, $93 flywheel, Then bought RMS, TOB Retainer, Pilot bearing, fluids, new flywheel and new starter bolts, Fiore clutch quadrant and fire wall adjsuter... I ended up between $450 and $500, BUT everything is new and upgraded from stock.
So I spent my labor $$ on parts basically...
And I can say I did it myself...
I spent $165 clutch, $93 flywheel, Then bought RMS, TOB Retainer, Pilot bearing, fluids, new flywheel and new starter bolts, Fiore clutch quadrant and fire wall adjsuter... I ended up between $450 and $500, BUT everything is new and upgraded from stock.
So I spent my labor $$ on parts basically...
And I can say I did it myself...