how to eliminate wheel hop??????

where can i find cheap quads? not really wanting to drop a ton of money into it just yet

Try any major auto parts store. The prices are pretty munch the same between AuoZone, Advanced Auto Parts and the other auto parts chain stores. Rock Auto is usually cheaper, but by the time you pay for shipping, it not that much better.

Gabriel Steering dampner #Part Number: 14039 Price $25.

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This question is more for the quad shock proponents:


So whaddya do with the quad shocks when you want to run a wider tire/rim and the quads are in the way?

Ditch and hope the change in wheel/tire selection makes them go away on their own. :shrug:


Seriously, that's what I plan on doing. I had wheel hop with MM lower arms, and had to put the quads back on. Now i want to run 10" wide rims and 295's. I might have to ditch and just hope the wider tire, or change in grip eliminates the issue. Fingers crossed
 
I wonder...


Maybe some sort of mono-shock could be fabbed up and placed somewhere closer to the middle of the axle?

That, in conjunction with some of the other suggestions that I've seen in this thread like box welding and beefing up the torque boxes, along with replacing the lower control arms with something less... 'flexible'.

I'm wary of putting any kind of bushing in the upper control arms that is not rubber. Up to, and including urethan bushings. Damn near everything that, I've read that in my mind, made logical sense about UCA bushings in a 4 link, says that you're more likely to cause suspension bind than anything else.

I'm thinking an OEM set of 94+ UCAs with new bushings, Torque box renforcements, and something to absorb the torque of the axle (located differently than the quads) might be the hot ticket aside from converting to a 3 link (which has it's own issues, fitment being the big one).


MFE92 -- Great collection there. Pretty much illustrates a point for a question that's asked over and over again. Hope it becomes a sticky!
 
Found this in these forums. After removing all the condescending garbage, it's actually a pretty good post and outlines pretty much how I understand the system to work (edited for content):

There is obvious logic behind this guys....I don't really understand why there is second guessing.

What do the quad shocks do? They control axial side to side movement, or a 'crab walking' motion if you will. What allows the rear end to move in such manner? Could it be the crappy control arms with rubber bushings?

Ever grab a stock control arm when the rear is out and shake it side to side? THAT is why you have quad shocks. Replacing the LCA's with a solid poly bushing and a strong box design, forces the rear to only travel in an up and down motion. Is this force still there? Yes, but it not as prominent, and is now forgiving.

Why the rubber bushings then? Because you have a solid axle, and when you turn, it twists. If you eliminate the twisting forces allowed by the rubber bushings, at a certain angle, the poly mounts will bind and you essentially 'bottom out' suspension travel.

Ford left quad shocks on these cars to compensate for that rubber bushing allowing the cars to maximize full suspension travel. If you run stock bushings and LCA's, you better damn leave them on. Wheelhop is only emphasised by no quads with stock equipment. Good aftermarket shocks do wonders. Replace your garbage and you won't wheelhop...ever. For dragging, all poly and solid is fine, some road racers may disagree but there are ways around that too even.
 
Found this in these forums. After removing all the condescending garbage, it's actually a pretty good post and outlines pretty much how I understand the system to work (edited for content):


I can pretty much agree with what that guy said.

For the record, I've literally owned dozens of fox bodies, I never run quad shocks, and my cars don't wheel hop. (but I always run good quality control arms)
 
Try any major auto parts store. The prices are pretty munch the same between AuoZone, Advanced Auto Parts and the other auto parts chain stores. Rock Auto is usually cheaper, but by the time you pay for shipping, it not that much better.

Gabriel Steering dampner #Part Number: 14039 Price $25.

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hahaha..call me a dumbass im sorry..that explains why i couldnt find them..i was searching for quad shocks..lmao thanx man seriously that 30 word post prolly helped me more then anything..too funny:rlaugh:
 
quad shocks are dangerous to your health

You can eliminate wheel hop by doing what ford was to cheap to do in the first place and that is stiffening the unibody by adding subframe connectors so the body doesn't bend, you can weld the seams around the upper and lower torque boxes instead of fords idea of spot welding them, if that don't work you can add battle boxes to reinforce further, if your still wheel hoppin you can get rid of those flimsy stamped LCA'S that bend and twist, if your still hopping you can put adjustable shocks out back, if your still hoppin you can install stiff coil springs instead of pen springs. quad shocks may be the cheapest way to stop wheel hop but you still have all of the above bending and twisting and breaking that quad shocks and ford engineers are covering up for.
 
So a torque arm would be better than panhard bar for eliminating wheel hop 100%? I have no quads. It hops on me terrible trying to make a tight spin out turn around.

Im bout to install subframe connectors, torque box reinforcements, feal coilovers (month or so). See if that does it, then if not, either torque arm or panhard bar. Building for drift setup so looking for stiff setup.

Yall like that 8 yr thd bump?
 
Well, with a torque arm you need to run a Panhard bar. They go together since the 3-link setup loses the ability to locate the axle side to side.

But a Panhard bar alone is not the solution for wheel hop.


And 8 years later....I still run quad shocks
 
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Oh ok. I would put quads on but its got 10" rear wheel, i assume they wont clear. :poo:, they might be on the car and wornout. I havent looked, car in storage now. I want 9" wide wheels anyway, so ill put some quads back on if they're compatible with coilovers.
 
I put them back on after years without them.
Turns out, it was a mistake to remove them in the first place.
I would think they would fit on the majority of wheel and tire setups, considering the tailpipes are close too.
 
My quad shocks look great. They've been in a box for the last twenty years. Total amount of difference so far? Zip. None. I so don't miss them I even removed the factory brackets because they will never go back on. That's just my thoughts.
 
Right on. I was out drifting lastnight, and getting a little bit of wheel hop on this left hander entry, that is slightly uneven. Someone saw and noticed it as well. But if i lay on the gas and make no grip connection to ground it goes away, kinda. its when im trying to grip up/slight throttle it, it'll hop. Only in that turn also.

I got a good way to measure/feel it now, so when i do chassis mods ill be able to see if a difference in that corner.

Messed up my passenger rear brake, somethn is fcky. Gotta look at it now. Prolly just order a rebuild kit for em. Started squeaking and brake pedal went to :poo:.
 
If anyone is interested, Auto Zone has the Gabriel 14039 for $11.99 on their website, but you better hurry, it's marked "sell until depleted". I guess once they're gone, they're gone, at least for 11.99. I had 2 delivered to my house for $33.00, after tax and shipping.
 
I would be a good number of people who yank their quad shocks end up actually having wheel hop, but learn to ignore it because "you don't need quad shocks".

Often times, especially on lowered cars, it can be attributed to improper pinion angle.

It's funny that quad shocks, and cat converters are two items that I've seen people ridiculed for on some of the Bookface forums for still having on their car. I don't get why that makes people so angry.
 
Ignoring wheel hop is destructive behavior.
Wheel hop tears your car apart. It will push the rear floor up and in splitting open the floor under the rear seats.
Watch any video of a car wheel hopping, it looks like the trunk or hatch is going to pop open.

Maybe my car is an anomaly, but I have more clearance at the flipped quad shock than I do the tailpipes. Ok so the tailpipes may sit different, but I have a saleen kit which requires the pipes to be centered so...

My tires also measure i real 10.75 wide. Literally measured with a tape measure.

And at a glance, the quad shock and lightly massaged edge of the tub (hammered the edge so that if the tires rubbed they would hit a rounded edge) nearly line up.

So they way i see it, either someone either has a behemoth set of wheels and or tires, or the wrong offset for the quads not to fit.