I would prefer not to have to loosen the headers because I don’t want to mess up the gasket. I will unbolt the other side and see if that helps. Also sorry I wasn’t clear I wasn’t talking about the EVAP canister but the electrical connector in the bottom left.You might have to loosen up the header bolts to allow some slop to get all fasteners started. Then cinch up the header bolts after that and follow up with the flange bolts. Also, make sure the flange on the other side is also not tightened up until after all fasteners are started.
The box in the other picture is the evap canister. Look up a hose routing diagram to see where things would go.
But if I tighten those nuts down it won’t leak correct? The ball socket will be lined up as long as the bolts are in the right spot correct? I will try loosening the x pipe on the other side and sliding it into place. Thanks.The header and the flare on the h pipe are going to leak a lot unless they are better lined up. You are lucky the stud is not longer. JD Jr. has what should be the right answer.
If that does not work, the Intermediate pipe will need adjusted for the right header flange spacing.
The nuts only hold it in place once things are lined up. Not fully tightening exhaust parts into it all fits together right is an important trick.But if I tighten those nuts down it won’t leak correct? The ball socket will be lined up as long as the bolts are in the right spot correct? I will try loosening the x pipe on the other side and sliding it into place. Thanks.
Okay I see. So what is the final goal? Is it okay if the rubber is still visible or is it supposed to be completely covered by the flange? Sorry if these are nooby questions I have never done anything like this before.The nuts only hold it in place once things are lined up. Not fully tightening exhaust parts into it all fits together right is an important trick.
The studs are not there to bend parts into alignment by your superior will and mental telepathy. Although that would be a cool X-Men power to have. It should go better as JD says.
Oh that makes sense that it would be for the fog lights because my car doesn’t have fog lights. Thanks.The LX models have the fog light wiring in place I believe, I will look at my car when I go back out there later, the radiator is out right now so I should be able to see down there.
what rubber?Okay I see. So what is the final goal? Is it okay if the rubber is still visible or is it supposed to be completely covered by the flange? Sorry if these are nooby questions I have never done anything like this before.
No. Even if it was a gasket type exhaust joint, rubber would not be a temperature effective material in that location.Isn’t there rubber on the ball socket?
Yeah I realize that now I was looking at it in bad light and for some reason when I felt it it felt like rubber… but I see now it is metal.No. Even if it was a gasket type exhaust joint, rubber would not be a temperature effective material in that location.
(So, don’t put rubber on your ball sockets or nuts.)
I agree. I have a MAC ProChamber that is a 2 piece set up. I install and hang the passenger side (keeping it a bit loose) and then install and connect the driver side. Work side to side and tighten everything up.Is the x pipe one piece, or multiple?
Is the x pipe one piece, or multiple?
One thing i've learned the hard way over the years is that you don't weld exhaust pipes and mid pipes should always be comprised of more than 1 piece (which is why i prefer the bassani 3 piece).
This may be the first time you are having this issue, but it won't be the last.
I didn’t even know there was anything besides a 1 piece. Yeah my x-pipe is a 1 piece. That’s a problem isn’t it… i still is possible to get it on though correct?I agree. I have a MAC ProChamber that is a 2 piece set up. I install and hang the passenger side (keeping it a bit loose) and then install and connect the driver side. Work side to side and tighten everything up.
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