I did the ORP full roller suspension and the 1.5" drop. Easier to do, cheaper too and damn nice ride. I can't comment for comparison vs. the MII but so far, it's one of the better handling cars I've driven after the upgrade (night and day from the stock stuff.)
I talked to a local shop about some of the options that you all have suggested on here. Because i dont have the tools or the know how i was going to have the work done by someone else. The guys I talked to recommended a TCI Front Clip and rack and pinion because it was high quality and affordable and was something they just put on a 66 Fastback they have in the shop and liked the results. What is everyones opinion on this?
the TCI is a mustang II type front suspension. run a search on it as there are many opinions on the subject. Once you put a MII front suspension on, it's a lot harder to go back to stock components if you're worried about that.
Suspensions are easy, If you can turn a wrench you can replace your front suspension in a few hours with stock type components, TCP, global west, ETC. The MII suspensions require cutting and welding.
any of the specialty tools you would need can be borrowed from the local parts place. Mostly just a spring compressor and something to separate the ball joints from the spindles.
I'll also advise you to do what 2+2 said. There is nothing really wrong and not much to be gained especially on a street car by changing from the stock suspension.
I'll add this. I would not run big wheels and tires. Not only do they look terrible on classics, but the 200 will not like them and the small rear axle won't care for them either. The car will be more fun to drive with tires that are close to normal size.
While everyone has their own opinion on handling, I for one think the rear sway bar is essential to getting ANY car to corner well. The stock 4-leaf springs and new replacement 4-leaf springs are very limp and offer no real roll control at all. I have 5 leafs on mine and wish they were a touch stiffer for frisky driving. When setting up a suspension, I believe that letting each component do it's own job is the only way to go. For example, spring rate should be just stiff enough to keep the suspension from bottoming out, not for roll control. Sway bars should control body roll, but need to be properly sized. Mine is a 3/4 adjustable and is set on full stiff. As for oversteer, it hasn't even been an issue. My fastback with 15's on it will out-corner my '88 GT with 17's and sticky tires on it and that's saying something. Personally I think the "sway bars equal oversteer" thing is a myth. Any car can be made to oversteer if you're rough with the wheel, brakes or throttle, the suspension needs to be tuned to the driving. I currently have 5 cars in my household, a 2004 F250, a '97 Suburban, '88 GT, '69 Corvette and my fastback and all but one came from the factory with a rear sway bar. Think that's an accident? I was once told by someone here that "our early Mustangs weren't designed to use a rear sway bar". Bullstuff. They weren't designed for radial tires, either, but who here is using bias plys? Until someone shows me in person or with lap times on a track how on earth their Mustang could possibly get worse with a rear swaybar, I'll have to assume that I'm doing it right. After all I've driven my car with and without a rear bar I can can say with all certainty it's much better with.
I don't necessarily agree about the rear springs. I have 4 leaf GT springs and its pretty stiff. I could not imagine how bad it would be with 5 leaf. I would say 4.5 leaf is the most I would ever even consider.
I agree about the sway bar comment. Mine handles really well with a larger front and a rear sway bar.
First of all thanks guys for all of the imput. Its nice to have a good group to bouce ideas off of. Secondly "N" that is one bad 64.5 you have. I love the stance with a little bit of the rubber sitting up underneath the fender. Lastly I have a question since you guys clearly know your stuff. If i hot rod my inline 6 just to keep things interesting will I need to switch out my stock rear axel. Its stock currently but with hopes of high 200- low 300 horse power will I need to upgrade to an 8.8 or 9inch rearend? Or will I be safe with the stock rearend?